Wierd problems...
03-30-2003, 05:54 PM
#1
Racer
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Wierd problems...
I have a few problems, and somehow I think they might be all related. Hopefully someone can give me some insight into the problem.
1) Voltage gauge fluctuation. Sometimes it twitches, sometimes it drops, and one time it dropped all the way down, even though the car remained completely driveable.
2) With a corresponding voltage drop, the temperature gauge will jump up higher.
3) If I turn on the lights, the voltage reading drops, resulting in number 2 (temperature reads higher).
4) Immediately after I replaced my steering rack (battery was disconnected for about a month), after I start the car my seatbelt light would remain on even after it was fastened, and my airbag light would remain on. I reset it several times (the pin grounding procedure on the molex plug), but the light comes back on after the car is started and has run for about 20 seconds.
My thoughts are: possible bad grounds or bad alternator. Where are all the ground points, and how would I go about fixing them? Can I add new grounds? I read that Icesharks light cannon wiring harness also fixes a bunch of electrical problems related to insufficient grounding...maybe similar techniques can be used to create better grounds? Also Is there a way I can check my alternator without removing it and taking it somewhere?
I read something about a voltage regulator... where is it, and how can I test it?
I also read somewhere that bad volages can trigger the airbag light - that's why I think it might all be related.
Any guidance/insight you can give me would be much appreciated!!!
Thanks for your input!
MJ
1) Voltage gauge fluctuation. Sometimes it twitches, sometimes it drops, and one time it dropped all the way down, even though the car remained completely driveable.
2) With a corresponding voltage drop, the temperature gauge will jump up higher.
3) If I turn on the lights, the voltage reading drops, resulting in number 2 (temperature reads higher).
4) Immediately after I replaced my steering rack (battery was disconnected for about a month), after I start the car my seatbelt light would remain on even after it was fastened, and my airbag light would remain on. I reset it several times (the pin grounding procedure on the molex plug), but the light comes back on after the car is started and has run for about 20 seconds.
My thoughts are: possible bad grounds or bad alternator. Where are all the ground points, and how would I go about fixing them? Can I add new grounds? I read that Icesharks light cannon wiring harness also fixes a bunch of electrical problems related to insufficient grounding...maybe similar techniques can be used to create better grounds? Also Is there a way I can check my alternator without removing it and taking it somewhere?
I read something about a voltage regulator... where is it, and how can I test it?
I also read somewhere that bad volages can trigger the airbag light - that's why I think it might all be related.
Any guidance/insight you can give me would be much appreciated!!!
Thanks for your input!
MJ
03-30-2003, 06:40 PM
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Quick reply, seeing that I was informed that I don't belong on this board....
Check all grounds. (90% of all electrical wierdness is ground-related)..
Check all connections @ instrument cluster... I've had several '44's in the shop lately, w/similar problems.. '11s too...
If you have an aftermarket stereo system.... Disconnect from the factory car harness, and run it independantly... Just run an accessory wire for on/off of ignition... The factory harness for some reason doesn't like stereo swaps..
Check the voltage reg w/a meter... Get a manual!
Best 40 dollar investment for your car ever...
HTH... -LLG
Check all grounds. (90% of all electrical wierdness is ground-related)..
Check all connections @ instrument cluster... I've had several '44's in the shop lately, w/similar problems.. '11s too...
If you have an aftermarket stereo system.... Disconnect from the factory car harness, and run it independantly... Just run an accessory wire for on/off of ignition... The factory harness for some reason doesn't like stereo swaps..
Check the voltage reg w/a meter... Get a manual!
Best 40 dollar investment for your car ever...
HTH... -LLG
03-30-2003, 06:46 PM
#3
Big thirst, Sore Thumbs
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Napoleon
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1. Check grounds.
2. I told you to check grounds.
3. REAALLLLLY Check the grounds.
4. Cuss
5. Replace grounds.
And introducing updated sig.
LLG what do you mean you don't belong here?
2. I told you to check grounds.
3. REAALLLLLY Check the grounds.
4. Cuss
5. Replace grounds.
And introducing updated sig.
LLG what do you mean you don't belong here?
03-30-2003, 11:34 PM
#4
Nerd Herder
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by SidViscous:
<strong>1. Check grounds.
2. I told you to check grounds.
3. REAALLLLLY Check the grounds.
4. Cuss
5. Replace grounds.
And introducing updated sig.
LLG what do you mean you don't belong here?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">what he said... He's right!
Hi sid!
<strong>1. Check grounds.
2. I told you to check grounds.
3. REAALLLLLY Check the grounds.
4. Cuss
5. Replace grounds.
And introducing updated sig.
LLG what do you mean you don't belong here?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">what he said... He's right!
Hi sid!
03-31-2003, 10:11 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
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with regards to air bag light, the problem is most likely a broken "watch spring" behind the steering wheel. If you are not very careful when you disconnect the rack, when you put everything back together and turn the wheel you break the spring.
rather than resetting the light, read the codes for the system, if they point you to a steering wheel contact then you can be almost sure that the spring is broken. When you reconnect the rack you first need to be sure the spring is in the middle of its travel, turn the wheel from lock to lock, very gently, counting turns as you go, then turn it back 1/2 of the total, make sure the rack is also centered and make the connection. If the spring is broken you will have to replace it, the only source is Porsche, avoid the temptation to buy a used one if at all possible. Good luck Mark T.
rather than resetting the light, read the codes for the system, if they point you to a steering wheel contact then you can be almost sure that the spring is broken. When you reconnect the rack you first need to be sure the spring is in the middle of its travel, turn the wheel from lock to lock, very gently, counting turns as you go, then turn it back 1/2 of the total, make sure the rack is also centered and make the connection. If the spring is broken you will have to replace it, the only source is Porsche, avoid the temptation to buy a used one if at all possible. Good luck Mark T.
03-31-2003, 11:51 AM
#7
Jane Bond 007
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by LeftLaneGuy:
<strong>Quick reply, seeing that I was informed that I don't belong on this board.... </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Why don't you?
<strong>Quick reply, seeing that I was informed that I don't belong on this board.... </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Why don't you?
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03-31-2003, 03:33 PM
#8
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After all the posts lately with weird electrical problems I followed some of the advice given. Cleaned all the ground points I could get to, added a ground strap from the front of the engine to the frame, and installed the adjustable voltage regulator (from Iceshark) in the alternator. The gauge needles quit bouncing, dash lights are brighter, and now there are 14.4 volts across the battery terminals with the engine running. The headlights seem brighter also.
03-31-2003, 05:10 PM
#9
Drifting
BTW Who doesn't belong on this board?
Check the grounds.
That reminds me, I've replaced the WHOLE ignition system, the better part of the fuel delivery system, maybe I should.....
Hi Sid
Check the grounds.
That reminds me, I've replaced the WHOLE ignition system, the better part of the fuel delivery system, maybe I should.....
Hi Sid
03-31-2003, 05:29 PM
#10
Big thirst, Sore Thumbs
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Napoleon
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<img border="0" alt="[bigbye]" title="" src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" />
Hey Kev. Thanks again for the chow.
Sorry about your road system.
Hey Kev. Thanks again for the chow.
Sorry about your road system.
04-02-2003, 11:20 PM
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Racer
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Well thanks for all those replies - I actually forgot I'd posted this message until about 10 minutes ago. I do have the factory manuals (on CD) I guess I should look in there for info on the grounds.
Cupmeister - when you say you cleaned the grounds, do you mean you disconnected, degunked, wiped clean, and reconnected? Do you have any pics of the new ground you installed? How much did that adjustable voltage reg cost you? My voltage gauge reads anywhere from 11 - 12V depending on it's mood. In my wife's chevy her gauge is always above 13V, as has every other car I've owned that had a voltmeter.
MHT (Mark) - if it's that spring, what's the process to replace it. PLEEEEEASE don't tell me I have to pull the steering rack out again.
Many thanks,
MJ
Cupmeister - when you say you cleaned the grounds, do you mean you disconnected, degunked, wiped clean, and reconnected? Do you have any pics of the new ground you installed? How much did that adjustable voltage reg cost you? My voltage gauge reads anywhere from 11 - 12V depending on it's mood. In my wife's chevy her gauge is always above 13V, as has every other car I've owned that had a voltmeter.
MHT (Mark) - if it's that spring, what's the process to replace it. PLEEEEEASE don't tell me I have to pull the steering rack out again.
Many thanks,
MJ
04-03-2003, 03:05 AM
#12
Big thirst, Sore Thumbs
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Napoleon
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Napoleon
"My voltage gauge reads anywhere from 11 - 12V"
There you go. Woefully inadequate voltages. if it aint reading at least 13 (and that is on the bad side) you got problems. Either alternator/voltage regulator or grounds.
See you have a lot of cash in upgrades, there is no better upgrade you can do than a good set of battery wires and make sure the alternator is up to snuff.
Braided fuel lines don't mean **** if the car won't start.
I'm reading about 13.5 which tells me I got to do something, but I got a few months. 11 to 12 volts means I aint driving it anywhere I can't get a jump.
There you go. Woefully inadequate voltages. if it aint reading at least 13 (and that is on the bad side) you got problems. Either alternator/voltage regulator or grounds.
See you have a lot of cash in upgrades, there is no better upgrade you can do than a good set of battery wires and make sure the alternator is up to snuff.
Braided fuel lines don't mean **** if the car won't start.
I'm reading about 13.5 which tells me I got to do something, but I got a few months. 11 to 12 volts means I aint driving it anywhere I can't get a jump.
