clutch slave not engaging
#1
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clutch slave not engaging
I've replaced both master and slave, and bleed them with around 3 quarts of brake fluid. When i depress the slave this what i get. 1st pic, the 2nd is of the haynes manual. So I know the slave is not fully engaging the fork, And when i press the pedal down i can hear the slave sqweak. probably nothing though. The pedal still sticks at the bottom which probably means air, but When i use a power bleeder i get no air bubbles.
I removed the clip that allows the pedal to stop at the range of motion and had a 1/4 in more movement at the fork. 3rd & 4th pic. I think my problem is that the pedal is engaging the slave too late in the range of motion, or the slaves rod is too small. Is it possible to adjust the movement of the pedal to the slave?
sorry for the long post, but i really want to start driving her two years in the driveway is too long!!!!
I removed the clip that allows the pedal to stop at the range of motion and had a 1/4 in more movement at the fork. 3rd & 4th pic. I think my problem is that the pedal is engaging the slave too late in the range of motion, or the slaves rod is too small. Is it possible to adjust the movement of the pedal to the slave?
sorry for the long post, but i really want to start driving her two years in the driveway is too long!!!!
#2
Burning Brakes
Something to try: Pull the slave off. Open the bleeder screw and then compress the piston all the way with your hand. With the piston still held down, close the bleeder screw. Put it back on and bleed normally. This may take two people...
Did you adjust the master yet?
Did you adjust the master yet?
#3
Rennlist Member
Could be that the fork needle bearings are so bad that movement is absorbed there; the squeaking sounds like they are at least dry. With no pressure on the pedal, can you move the fork up/down? You should not be able to.
#4
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I thought the only adjustment was at the master cylinder; where it connects to the clevis. See link.
One thing I noticed when I recently replaced the master/slave on my '84, is that when I removed and installed the slave cylinder, the slave rod was compressed a little against the clutch, for both the old and new part. I'm not sure if that's normal, but my clutch engagement feels right.
BTW, just because you're not getting bubbles doesn't necessarily mean that there's no air in the system. Air still could be trapped in there; that's what it sounds like to me.
One thing I noticed when I recently replaced the master/slave on my '84, is that when I removed and installed the slave cylinder, the slave rod was compressed a little against the clutch, for both the old and new part. I'm not sure if that's normal, but my clutch engagement feels right.
BTW, just because you're not getting bubbles doesn't necessarily mean that there's no air in the system. Air still could be trapped in there; that's what it sounds like to me.
#5
Did you manually bleed it after pressure bleeding? After pressure bleeding, which seams to take care of big bubbles, I had to manually bleed, which took care of the small bubbles. It took a while of manual bleeding to get my pedal came back.
#6
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Yes i manually bled then after I pressure bled them. I adjusted the spring from loose to tight, and it seemed that as more loose the spring got the pedal would come up on it's own, no sticking. But the adjusting the spring didn't affect the range of motion of the slave....
The fork is very firm in the bell housing, I can't even wiggle it. The squeek sounds like it's coming from the slave though.
Is it possible to adjust the master while still installed?
The fork is very firm in the bell housing, I can't even wiggle it. The squeek sounds like it's coming from the slave though.
Is it possible to adjust the master while still installed?
#7
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#8
I had a similar problem when I did my master. I had to crawl under upside down with a headlamp and adjust it. Be careful not to get your head caught between the wheel and the seat or you might end up driving a wheel chair up and down the driveway with your tongue. I also used a power bleeder and had issues with air bubbles, make sure your resevoir is staying completely full when its under pressure and you aren't pumping in air. You can pressurize/depressurize it a few times and try lightly taping the slave to work some of the air out.