gordyboy

I did a search and found lots of great information but haven't been able to get this thing running. 85.5 automatic, was running fine and then one day just refused to start. After reading lots of posts and doing some troubleshooting, I came to the conclusion that it was the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump (with check valve), the fuel filter, and the line between them. Still no start. I had already tested the dme relay and it tested fine, but I bought a spare and replaced it anyway. Still no start.
It seems to be getting spark fine.
So, any ideas what to check next?

Yarf

Have you checked the fuel pressure?

gordyboy

No, I don't have a guage for that.

xsboost90

when you crank it does the tach move at all- if not that points to a ref sensor. They are two black square plugs behind the intake - try wiggling them around and see if that helps- sometimes the connections get corroded.

Yarf

Does your Tac bounce a little while trying to start?
Have you checked to see if the fuel pump has 12VDC applied while trying to start?
If yes then you need to borrow a Fuel Pressure Test Gage with a metric adapter (M12 x1.5).
The test port is a cap nut and sealing ball which are at the front of the fuel rail.
Some Auto Parts stores will loan you tools and test equipment.
If you have spark (at the plugs) and fuel pressure at the rail then the DME may not be driving the injectors.
The sensors on the bell housing output to the DME while the engine is turning and the DME controls the spark ( coil) and injectors.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/ very good procedures on all of this.
Good Luck
Keith

gordyboy

Thanks for the suggestions.
The tack does bounce while trying to start and I've confirmed that the fuel pump is getting 12 volts. I tried using a jumper on the DME relay as well and could hear the fuel pump kick in.
Thanks for the reference to Clarks, I did use their documents for testing the dme etc..
I think the next thing will be to track down a fuel pressure gauge and test.

xsboost90

try this- use some starting fluid and spray it into the afm while someone cranks the car. If it fires right up then you have a fuel problem. If not, you may have an ignition problem

peanut

If you have a spark then its likely to be a fuel related problem. Fuel pumps are one of the least likely causes of a 'no start' The most common parts that get replaced on a no start car are
1.fuel pump
2 fuel filter,
3 Distributer cap
4 Rotor
5 FPR fuel pressure relief valve

at which point the car usually goes into the garage

Start with basics.
1.
Check You have a healthy spark at the plugs (check and clean all the plugs)( Note colour of plugs )

2. Check that you are getting fuel delivery. Remove the cap (and ball bearing) on the fuel rail. Attach a length of garden hose with a jubilee clip and put hose into a suitable container

3 Fit jumper wire to DME relay socket and try to start car.If it starts you have a faulty DME.

4. Disconnect all injector electrical connectors. With ignition on Measure you have 12v+ on one or both the spade connectors to each injector with either a multimeter or use a 12v bulb and a piece of wire .

5. Still no start ok check you are getting a pulsed electrical supply to each injector connector. Either plug in a NOID light ( ebay $15-20 ) or use the 12v bulb and two wires . You might just notice a flicker.
Check for pulsed supply when cranking the engine.

If the car passes all these checks then the likely culpret is either sticky injectors or loss of fuel pressure through the FPR (fuel pressure relief valve) or a vacum leak ? check all vacumn pipe conections on inlet etc

Grun_RS

@Yarf,
Any hints on where I can purchase the metric adapter, [12x1.5]?? I've checked with Porsche and Volkwagen and it seems it can only be had in a set, which is high $$.
I'll most likely have to machine my own...

gordyboy

Thanks to all for the suggestions. I was feeling discouraged for a couple of days before I posted but after I posted and got a few replies I was feeling invigorated again ;-)

As xsboost suggested, I sprayed starting fluid in the afm and it fired up right away, so that definitely made me believe it's still a fuel supply problem.

Thanks to peanut for some great troubleshooting steps as well. I was going to attach the garden hose to the fuel rail to see what I got but I decided to check my fuel pump installation first. The hose between the fuel tank and the fuel pump has a bend to reach properly, but it looked like it was bent too much and somewhat crimped. I removed the pan from below the pump to let the bend out of the hose, then used a jumper on the dme relay and could pretty quickly hear a hiss as fuel came in to the fuel rail (I guess). Put the dme relay back in and tried starting it and it fired up right away.

Now I just have to figure out how to get the fuel pump up where it belongs with the pan back in place without crimping that hose.

Thanks so much for those who posted replies and got me going again :-)

peanut

you don't really need it for testing fuel presure. I just connected a cheap ebay fuel pressure gauge using nothing more than a length of garden hose and 2x jubilee clips.

Yarf

There is a procedure to make a fuel rail pressure port adapter @ http://www.clarks-garage.com/
Good to hear you fixed it.

peanut

if there is sufficient hose you could try disconnecting one end and putting a twist in the hose before retightening the clamp. You need a gentle loop shape rather than a tight bend so you may need to put a longer pipe in.
well done for spotting the problem anyway