MacinTek

I think I'm going to replace/reseal both anyway but, by looking at the attached pictures, can anyone here tell which is spraying oil all over the front of my '91 944S2?

Since lowering the oil pan seems necessary to remove/install the oil pump, any tips on how to get at the bolts above the cross member? It seems like there isn't enough room to get a wrench up there, let alone a torque wrench.


After taking a few more shots... one rather telling one using a mirror to see the underside of the upper balance shaft sleeve, I think I can safely say that, at the very least, the balance shaft seal is blown at the rear of the sleeve.

The last image shows how clean the main engine seal is compared to the surrounding (exposed) area so, I guess I should re-seal the oil pump while I've got it all apart.

Grandpa#3

Thats got so much crud and oil you can't tell much of anything except you have a leak. You have to clean that whole area off in order to find where the actual leak is located.

Cheers,
Larry

MacinTek

Understood but... that area is usually behind the belt tensioner assembly so I had no way of knowing it was that cruddy. I can't exactly clean it all up, put everything back together and run the engine just to see the leak. As it's already apart, I might as well reseal the lot. Thanks for the suggestion.

rdhayward

Looks like a leak behind just behind the balance shaft front cover (called a "gear carrier" in the parts catalog).

Jay W

Oil runs down mostly so I would say to replace the balance shaft seals, and the crank seal while you are in there. No telling which is worst but it looks like the balance shaft seal is leaking the worst. I have done 4 front seal jobs and most looked worse than yours. I have never taken the oil pump off to replace that seal, I have just replaced the crank seal in that area.

Mike C.

Removing the oil pump is a lot of extra work. Oil leaks in this area are usually the seals. Unless you need to replace an oil pan gasket, I would not remove the pump (is oil pressure O.K.?). Oil pump seal can be done in-situ. Be sure and replace oil pump drive gear and/or B/S bushings (where the seal lip rides) if you can feel any groove with your fingernail. Otherwise and the new seal lip won't last long.

MacinTek

Hmm... good advice all around. Thank you all so much. I think I'll forego the oil pump reseal since oil pressure doesn't seem to be a problem at all. I will, however replace the front main seal as well as the other leaky (or blown seals). I really was dreading dropping the oil pan. Again, thanks to all who responded.

whalebird

Do the teflon seal and O-ring on the crank at the same time.

MacinTek

I'm not familiar with the teflon seal and the O-ring. Are there part numbers for those?

Jay W

The best plan is to buy a complete front re-seal kit complete with the crank and balance shaft sleeves from paragon or another vendor. If you buy the parts separately it will cost much much more.

cruise98

There is an o-ring behind the washer on the crank, it fits into a chamfer in the oil pump sleeve. The crank does not have a teflon seal like the cam and balance shafts do. The seal between the oil pump and the engine block is created with Orange loctite. This area can leak, but it is a royal PITA to do it. Try the other front seals first.

whalebird

My bad. cruise 98 is correct. There is only the o-ring.

M758

Looks like oil pump seal. I had this leaking on my 944 spec car. It threw oil all over the place. Replacing it was not hard. I just had to pull the seal out. There is a drive gear on there too. It is under the metal washer. My seal was goof (recient motor rebuld), but the gear had a wear groove it it.

Now if you cannot pull the pump drive gear out put a hose clamp on the tiny exposed edge of the gear and used that to pull it.

The pump and pan stay in place.