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Putting late fusebox in early car

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Old 06-24-2010, 05:18 PM
  #16  
V2Rocket
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well, StrekStrekStrekStrek it.

went out to start the car to run an errand, no dice. after many many more tries, wiggling and tapping the dme relay and computer i still got nothing. pulled the fuse block down, swapped relays, still nothing.

anybody got a diagram of the ignition circuit from the key to the dme relay to the computer and wherever else it goes? im just going to replace the whole damn thing

car ran PERFECTLY this morning for probably an hour driving around with multiple stops along the way, started up with no issues.
Old 06-26-2010, 02:56 PM
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jharding
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Wiggle the reference sensor wires and see if the car starts. If it does it's time to replace your ref sensors.
Old 07-10-2010, 11:46 PM
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GloriaRedStang
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I've been ignoring this same problem in my 84 for about 6 months now. I have not solved it, but I was able to start it yesterday and today. Talk about a much needed drive.

I'm suspicious that it's not the speed and ref. sensors, but rather a poorly seated DME relay. The wiggling and tapping solution sometimes works, but the reconnecting of the s/r sensors works less often. Coincidentally, this problem has also made me think about whether it would be a good idea to relocate the fusebox and relay panel to somewhere with better access.
Old 07-11-2010, 12:02 AM
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V2Rocket
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my problem turned out to be a f*cked ignition switch
Old 07-22-2010, 07:18 AM
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peanut
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket_aka944
my problem turned out to be a f*cked ignition switch
yeah the ignition switch a common source for intermittant starting problems.
The constant live feed to terminal 30 for the DME relay socket comes from the starter switch.
Old 07-22-2010, 07:27 AM
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peanut
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Originally Posted by GloriaRedStang
I've been ignoring this same problem in my 84 for about 6 months now. I have not solved it, but I was able to start it yesterday and today. Talk about a much needed drive.

I'm suspicious that it's not the speed and ref. sensors, but rather a poorly seated DME relay. The wiggling and tapping solution sometimes works, but the reconnecting of the s/r sensors works less often. Coincidentally, this problem has also made me think about whether it would be a good idea to relocate the fusebox and relay panel to somewhere with better access.
Have you tried fitting a 3x way bypass cable in place of the DME relay ? at least that will eliminate the DME relay as being a possible cause.

The bypass cable (see Clarkes Garage Workshop manual) will bypass the ECU and give constant fuel pumping and ignition feed . It might narrow down your search.

The crank sensor is a simple magnet with a coil of wire round it. Nothing much to go wrong, however the coil can go open circuit (check using continuity test with multimeter) more often it is a break in the wires from the sensor due to heat making the wires brittle.

Have you cleaned the connectors to all the sensors ? and the ground points for the ECU & DME on the top chassis rail in front of the battery ?



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