AndrewLang

Hi Guys,

Me and my buddies have pulled the engine on the 944 we are building into a rally car. The original problem was the clutch and we figured we should address oil leaks while the engine is out. As far as I know this engine has been sitting for a while. We are definitely replacing the oil pan gasket and we plan on doing the rod bearings at the same time. Any recommendations on other oil seals or things we should do to the head? The engine has about 90k miles on it. The chassis is off to get the cage put in so we have about 2 weeks to work on the engine.

Suggestions are appreciated.

V2Rocket

i would love to see the rally project come to life...i have dreamt of that as well.

if you're going to have it that apart and the engine is out, just replace all the seals...

Fintro11

front seals and rear seals, paragon has a good seal kit

FRporscheman

I'd replace every seal. If you want a breakdown...

Air-oil separator a.k.a. AOS o-rings (this is the black plastic can you pour oil into)
oil cap o-ring
dipstick and tube o-rings
all front seals
rear main seal a.k.a. RMS
oil pan gasket (with the pan off, also do the oil pickup tube o-ring)
injector seals
if it's leaking, change the cam tower gasket
oil cooler housing seals (kit)
if you feel crafty, you can change the valve stem seals with the head still on, by pressurizing the cylinders to keep the valves up.

if you're keeping power steering, reseal the pump and the rack, they probably leak as much as the engine

Also, I'd say reseal both whole balance shaft housings with loctite orange, and if you do, there is a fat o-ring at the rear of each housing which you should replace. If you don't, you should at least seal the leaking rear o-rings with gray silicone (which has been proven to work well for a long time).

If it were me, I'd replace/rebuild everything except rings and mains. But I'm a freak!

Post pics of your project!

AndrewLang

mytrplseven

One of the things that fails, and not necessarily under racing condtions, is the oil pickup tube. If you're planning on rallying this car by all means, make this a high priority item. It breaks due to vibration. Search the threads. There's a guy who makes the proper reinforcement part, already engineered and all you need to do is braze or weld it to the oil pickup pipe. You should do this while the oil pan is off.

krystar

LS1 944 Rally Spec :P

FRporscheman

Haha, nice pics! I like the new powerplant in that engine bay, instead of 4 cylinders you got 4 dudes flintstoning it.

AndrewLang

Hi everyone,

I wanted to post about a couple issues we ran into when we started working on the motor hoping that we could get some help from all of you.

1) Someone foolish took the cover off of this part of the transaxel, the spring popped out and now we cant push it back in enough to get the cover back on. Does anyone know what this is and what we have to do to get it back in place?



2) Our oil pickup tube looked to us like it had been damaged. What do you guys think of what you see in these pictures?






3) Does anyone know the part number of this coolant tube? Looks like we need to replace it.



4) I believe someone placed the wrong timing belt cover on our car, the bolt holes don't seem to line up on the left half. Am I wrong here? If this is the wrong one does anyone know the part number for the correct plastic cover?




5) Does anyone have the part number for these missing bolts? These are by the exhaust manifold area.



6) Replacing the seals on the injectors confused me. The plastic caps on some of them are very broken and the seal kit I bought specifically said that I couldn't use the plastic covers in it for 944 injectors. I bought the kit from Pelican and it had 3 orings when I only needed 2 per injector... very confusing. Can these tips be replaced easily? Does anyone know the P/N? I cracked some pretty bad so I'm pretty sure they won't work as is. I tried to show the cracks in the photos below.





And finally, here is a nice photo of our crank and rods!

dirtyTurbo

Boy I'd like to meet the guy you bought that car from! It looks like the pick up tube hit a speed bump!? I don't know how that could happen but yes you're gunna want to replace that

I don't know about the transaxle but I will tell you that is definitely not the original belt cover. While you've got the motor out it's much easier to remove them all together, it'll give you 10 hp

Also make sure you clean and paint everything you have time for, I was real sorry when I put everything back together and it was still dirty!

p.s. I have one of those coolant pipes sitting in my garage if you're interested, but that one looks like it just need a little needle nose pliers love

944_S_TYPE

I would add to your list MYSWISS oil pan retainer. And replacing belts/rollers. water pump.

krystar

holy cow. i can't even conceive how the pickup tube got like that. unless they removed it and started whacking on it with a hammer.


the fuel injectors, might as well send em to witch hunter and have em serviced for $20 each.


if you're at this point and want to use the motor, best pull off the rod caps and see if the crank journals are still smooth. and replace the rod bearings. most likely at least one or two are down to the copper. u'll need new rod nuts.

doabarrelroll

This looks like a cool project, subscribed

Lindsey Racing and Paragon sell complete engine rebuild kits that include bearings, seals, gaskets, etc. for this exact type of work. Especially with the engine out of the car, it's best to do everything.

+1 on Witchhunter Performance for injector rebuilding

I'm not familiar with "rally" engine other than the fact that forced induction is almost always used now. But, you could always lighten the flywheel while it's out, do a balance shaft delete, a/c delete, etc. Solid motor mounts? I imagine vibration isn't an issue when you're basically driving offroad, lol.

I can just picture this turning out like this....

DewaneP

I just did this exact same thing. Bought 2.7 car with broke belt. So while waiting on machine shop I pulled the engine to reseal and to look at clutch. I ordered a complete gasket kit and 4 injector seal kits ( came with pintle caps and orings) water pump , belts, rollers. If you are running the heater, get the heater hoses and heater valve, put on while engine is out. Do all the coolant hoses money and time well spent. also get the rubber mounts for the idle air control they will most likely break when you try to un bolt.
If the car sat for a long time this is a good time to do the clutch slave and hose as they are easier to get to now. Fan switch in the raditor before you put antifreeze in. I figured that out after filling mine up.
You will be supprised at how few gaskets you have left after you reseal everything.
I can go on but your budget will dictate what else.
As said in earlier post paint things as you go.
Dewane

AndrewLang

If you want to sell the coolant pipe let me know, ours has some other bends in it that I don't like. e-mail me andrew at imworkingiswear.com and we can arrange something.

Are you serious about taking the belt covers off, seems like you're joking. I imagine they are important to keep debris from getting into the belts.

Looking into the MYSWISS oil pan retainer and purchasing a new oil pickup tube. We have photos of the cage going in which I may post soon.