View Poll Results: After changing the oil pan gasket, was it leak-free?
Yes, dry as a bone with no leaks!
36
75.00%
No, it still leaked!
12
25.00%
Voters: 48. You may not vote on this poll
Oil Pan Gasket Poll
10-10-2011, 03:47 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Main problems I had and not mentioned yet:
Make sure you clean all the threads and bolts before you start torquing. It's difficult to do thoroughly with the engine in the car but take your time and get them really clean. You are only torquing at a low rate and any deposits on the threads will give a false reading.
Get a suitable torque wrench, one that has the readings you want to measure at about it's central range.
Make sure you clean all the threads and bolts before you start torquing. It's difficult to do thoroughly with the engine in the car but take your time and get them really clean. You are only torquing at a low rate and any deposits on the threads will give a false reading.
Get a suitable torque wrench, one that has the readings you want to measure at about it's central range.
I hear ya on the clean aspect ... Thankfully that is one area I think I can handle ... as for the other issues ... we will see
10-10-2011, 03:54 PM
#18
Race Director
I can only vote one, but I am something like 6 for 6 on pan gaskets with zero leaks. Never used a torque wrench though.. Always wrist tight with 1/4" drive socket. Wrist tight is how much torque I can put in with my hand on wrech using a wrist only motion like you do when you are just spinning a nut or bolt on with one hand.
10-10-2011, 03:55 PM
#19
Race Director
Nope, first time I did it was on the stand and used gasket maker on the corners. Second time was under the car, no gasket maker. Leak free both times. The important thing is to tighten each fastener over and over in the correct tightening pattern until each bolt is tightened to the "correct" stage. When the first "lap" is done, the center bolt will no longer be finger tight, it'll be loose. So in other words, it'll take 5-6 "laps" to get it to finger tight, another 5-6 to get it to 3ftlbs, and another 5-6 to get it to 7ft-lbs (or whatever the correct value). All this will take about an hour under the car, or 15min on the stand. Also, use dental floss to tie the gasket to the oil pan, start your bolts, then cut the floss out. That'll make sure the gasket stays in the correct place.
10-10-2011, 04:08 PM
#20
Three Wheelin'
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Leak free the first time every time.
Clean all surfaces with acetone
Wipe the gasked down with acetone to remove mold release. Use a very small dab of permetex gray at the sharp corners. Torque to proper specs.
I have resued a previously installed gasket several times, some quite old. Clean as above with acetone, with a plastic spreader get a thin even film of permetex grey on the block and the pan mating surfaces, install as per normal. Let set at least 12 hours for RTV to cure.
I once did not use a gasket in an emergency late night type repair and used grey RTV only no gasket. Lasted until it hung a rod out the side of the block.
FYI the Grey Permetex is a hard setting ridged type sealer.
Clean all surfaces with acetone
Wipe the gasked down with acetone to remove mold release. Use a very small dab of permetex gray at the sharp corners. Torque to proper specs.
I have resued a previously installed gasket several times, some quite old. Clean as above with acetone, with a plastic spreader get a thin even film of permetex grey on the block and the pan mating surfaces, install as per normal. Let set at least 12 hours for RTV to cure.
I once did not use a gasket in an emergency late night type repair and used grey RTV only no gasket. Lasted until it hung a rod out the side of the block.
FYI the Grey Permetex is a hard setting ridged type sealer.
10-10-2011, 04:29 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
I can only vote one, but I am something like 6 for 6 on pan gaskets with zero leaks. Never used a torque wrench though.. Always wrist tight with 1/4" drive socket. Wrist tight is how much torque I can put in with my hand on wrech using a wrist only motion like you do when you are just spinning a nut or bolt on with one hand.
10-10-2011, 04:43 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Leak free the first time every time.
Clean all surfaces with acetone
Wipe the gasked down with acetone to remove mold release. Use a very small dab of permetex gray at the sharp corners. Torque to proper specs.
I have resued a previously installed gasket several times, some quite old. Clean as above with acetone, with a plastic spreader get a thin even film of permetex grey on the block and the pan mating surfaces, install as per normal. Let set at least 12 hours for RTV to cure.
I once did not use a gasket in an emergency late night type repair and used grey RTV only no gasket. Lasted until it hung a rod out the side of the block.
FYI the Grey Permetex is a hard setting ridged type sealer.
Clean all surfaces with acetone
Wipe the gasked down with acetone to remove mold release. Use a very small dab of permetex gray at the sharp corners. Torque to proper specs.
I have resued a previously installed gasket several times, some quite old. Clean as above with acetone, with a plastic spreader get a thin even film of permetex grey on the block and the pan mating surfaces, install as per normal. Let set at least 12 hours for RTV to cure.
I once did not use a gasket in an emergency late night type repair and used grey RTV only no gasket. Lasted until it hung a rod out the side of the block.
FYI the Grey Permetex is a hard setting ridged type sealer.
I figured if I can avoid having to do it again, it's a small price to pay .....
10-10-2011, 04:59 PM
#23
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Apr 2004
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I use Ultra Grey on about everything, still a bit of a pain to clean off cured sealer but dooable. Almost anything i run into with a cork gasket that is not thickness critical I use UG and no cork. One of my pet peeves in life is oil leaks.
WOW that sucks on the broken pan just saw that picture. WTF happened?
10-10-2011, 05:39 PM
#24
Race Car
Sequence. Sequence, sequence, sequence. Did I say sequence?
Torque isn't all that critical. There are load limiters in the gasket that should take care of that for you. But you have GOT to do them in order. Silicone all T joints, as well.
Torque isn't all that critical. There are load limiters in the gasket that should take care of that for you. But you have GOT to do them in order. Silicone all T joints, as well.
10-10-2011, 06:40 PM
#25
Race Director
10-10-2011, 06:45 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
10-11-2011, 10:20 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
10-11-2011, 11:05 PM
#29
I have resued a previously installed gasket several times, some quite old. Clean as above with acetone, with a plastic spreader get a thin even film of permetex grey on the block and the pan mating surfaces, install as per normal. Let set at least 12 hours for RTV to cure.
