ZPmadA

I have sometime to install LR fuel lines I ordered a few months ago. I will also replace the jump line, FPR and dampener on my 86 Turbo. I will use the instructions posted on LR website:

http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/FUELLINES.html

Anyone have any other advice? How tight should I tighten the hard lines?
How tight should it be at the FPR and dampener?

As tight as possible, or will that strip something and cause a leak?

Is there a way to pressurize the fuel system after installation without starting the car to make sure there are no leaks?

I will also replace the fuel filter with a Mann fuel filter.

Thanks all.

Paulyy

Answers in red

ZPmadA

Not too sure what the black plastic piece on the bottom left of this picture (below the fuel lines) is for.

mytrplseven

It looks like a thing called a Wire Loom that keeps ignition wires routed next to each other neatly and keeps them from vibrating separately all over the place. You just put it either up in the middle of the fuel braided lines or near where the lines attach to the braided lines.

MAGK944

You'll find a bunch of those in the RH wheel well and under the RH side. They support the metal fuel lines. You will have to take one off and reinstall it afterwards to install the LR lines. Nice of them to include that in the kit as they often break when removed. Mike Lindsey is a class act!

ZPmadA

I am trying to install the LR line on the damper. The old OEM line can be tightened by finger all the way to the large nut that holds the damper. The lindsey line seems tighter on the damper. I can only turn it about two times by hand, and then need to use a wrench. It feels as if it is not metric like the damper. I'm worried this won't seal. Has anyone else experienced a 'tighter' feel with the lindsey lines, or are they suposed to tighten all the way to the nut by hand as smoothly as the old lines? BTW the damper is brand new, and the old line still tightens smoothly vs the lindsey line.

MAGK944

It should go on like the old one. Try putting some ptfe plumbers tape on the threaded portion for lubrication, just once around. Don't force it, if it's not going on right there is something else wrong. Here's mine for reference:

Ben951S

Do not use white plumber tape in fuel applications. Yellow is for fuel, if yoy must.

nasty9er

i will be doing this soon as well good luck

MAGK944

Thanks for the heads-up you've made me curious as to why you cannot use ptfe as a lubricant on fuel lines?

choinga

not too tight on the FPR/damper fittings. My experience was on the compression fittings where you tie in the new braided lines to the old hard lines...you need to torque the crap out of those. I thought I had them tight and then went and started the car and fuel was spraying out like I finger tightened them. I grabbed two wrenches and torque'd the living hell out of them and got it to work. I let the car idle for a good 15 minutes before zipping everything back up to make sure there were no leaks.

Also, be VERY sure that you give yourself some slack with those braided lines - you DO NOT want them to be just long enough to hit the FPR/damper fittings. Remember that the engine rotates and if there's not enough slack there you could be in for some serious trouble. Measure appropriately and then give yourself an extra inch to be sure.

IMHO, I'd replace the fuel pump (at least replace the check valve on it - those things get funky) while your doing the filter, especially if it's never been replaced.

ZPmadA

MAGK944 - Looking at your photo, It looks like the lindsey line does not screw in all the way to the damper. There is a small space between and they are not touching each other meaning I cannot counter torque that large nut while tightening the fuel line. Is that correct? I believe the OEM line screws in all the way.

MAGK944

I cannot remember how the old lines fitted but here is a close up of the LR line fittings if it helps.