SeanR

When I saw this thread my first thoughts were the picture posted below.

For our cars, the most important thing to consider is the level of ZDDP and how the lack of it can destroy our cams.

I prefer the synthetic and agree with what Darwin has said.

jep32

Ive done lots of research.....Brad Penn 20w-50 all year long in my S2.

Butters944

My dad says 20w50 is better for my engine than 10w40 and works better on our older/worn down engines. And regular oil just cause it's cheaper and what they had in the day anyway

ernie9468

I've run my ex 83 for twenty-six years (and it still running the same) on Dino Castrol GTX 20w50 without any problems what so ever & it's still running strong today.When I bougth my 968 two year ago I switch to Valvoline VR 1 racing oil 20W50 & up to now I'm very satisfied with it.Pic is after a hard run with temp at the 1/4 mark___idling at approx 850 RPM & oil preasure at 3 3/4 bars,btw that VR1 is not synthetic but plain old Dino.

Darwantae951

That idle oil pressure seems higher than what any other car vw been around at warm idle. Not saying its bad, just interesting.

dand86951

A good thing to keep in mind is that for a tracked turbo car the oil temps typically get pretty high on any normal summer day. With a Kiss oil cooler added my car would still show oil temps up in the 240F range on normal track days. I ran dino for breakin and then switched to Total Racing 20w-50. I had oil analysis done at each oil change and everything was always normal. For the high quality synthetics the maximum oil temps go way up close to 300F. My Audi S4 V6 tt specified synthetic and max oil temp was up right at 300F IIRC. The Total Quartz racing oil had fairly high levels of zinc and phosphorous, but not as high as Brad Penn.
My very hot idle oil pressures were 1/2 bar higher with the synthetic versus Valvoline dino.

Butters944

I just remembered: My oil pressure when hot and idle with my 10w40 was always around 1.5/2 bar. Now that i'm running 20w50 its more like at the 3 bar. Which is good i guess

odurandina

might put the protection of the bearings right up there on the critical list....


don't run conventional oil. it just leaves too much sludge behind. when changing over to synthetic, the first time you run it, you should change it sooner than normal due to it's cleansing effects, as there will be some sludge and charcoal sure to be coming off.... you'd be far better off running Amsoil for 20 k miles or M1 for 15 k miles than you would be running conventional oil for a regular cycle.... just change the filter once about halfway through a 10~12 k mile cycle when running synthetic.

everyone seems to have a favorite designer synthetic oil... fair enough.



just to clarify, when it says track use only, it would be more accurate to caution anyone running a catalytic converter that they should not use this oil.... Josh, i don't think you should buy a whole drum. even synthetic oil doesn't age well. otherwise, this is the best motor oil for our cars, period. i'm currently running a mix of 50/50 0w40 and 0w50....


if you could give 0w50 an exact number it would be about "3w48." because that's about what is... even so,


1. it's ~ 98 % as thick as regular 15w50 at running temp.

2. will beat any racing oil on earth for hp. one more reason why they make it.

3. saves gas on the street with zero compromises, nearly paying for itself....

4. it's the best winter oil for our cars. will flow well at startup down to about 5° F... but,

5. it's actually the best year round oil as well, as it flows better at 70° F than anything that offers maximum protection at running temp. in other words it has the widest viscosity rating of any oil that offers maximum protection for a Porsche 4 cylindar engine.

6. it's stable all the way to 500° F. not that any turbo or non-turbo engine for the street will ever get near there....

7. adds longer life to turbos, turbo engines and non-turbo engines, having 1800 ppm of zddp...




oil/SAE grade ................... visc @ 104° F............................. visc @ running temp / 212°F


Redline 15w50 ....................... 138 ............................................... 19.6

Mobil 1 15w50 ....................... 125 ............................................... 18

Mobil 1 5w50 Rally Oil ............. 108 ............................................... 17.5

Mobil 1 0w50 Racing Oil .......... 100 ............................................... 17.2

Mobil 1 10w40 ........................ 96 ................................................ 14.7

Mobil 1 0w40 .......................... 75 ................................................ 13.5


0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 5W-20 Extended Performance, 5W-30 Extended Performance, 10W-30 Extended Performance all have 800 ppm Phosphorus, 900 ppm Zinc:

5W-30 High Mileage, 10W-30 High Mileage, 10W-40 High Mileage - 900 ppm P, 1000 ppm Zn.

0W-40, 5W-50 1000 ppm P, 1100 ppm Zn.

15W-50 - 1200 ppm P, 1300 ppm Zn.

0W-30 Racing, 0W-50 Racing - 1750 ppm P, 1850 ppm Zn


photos courtesy of JDS968 (Josh from South Beach). carry on....



.

86 951 Driver

Brad Penn oil here. I have heard that Racing oil's don't have as many detergents. Just an FYI.

MAGK944

As usual with oil threads this is going to end up a battle of the oils. A while back I sent three oils to Blackstone Labs each with similar mileage and from a newly rebuilt engine. There was nothing lacking in any of them. They all maintained their zddp and viscosity levels and none had excessive metal particles or had chemically changed by any large amount.

Now we are talking in microns here. The one that had the fewest particles was Brad Penn, which I found also caused the tappets to run the quietest. Mobil 1 was second, GTX third and was also the worst to change composition. Again these are very small changes but recordable in their test results. All the oils were 20/50.

I wouldn't hesitate to run any of the oils but that is why I have used Brad Penn exclusively since then. You can do your own test if you want, they even send you little plastic containers and a mailer to send the oil back. They have a huge database of oils that they tested in their pre-use state to compare your used oil against and tell you the difference. Definitely worth a go if you want to go all scientific.

Excelerate

I want to chime in for synthetics, my car had hard starting issues in winter (it gets unbelievably cold here), and switching from 15W-50 to mobil 1 0w-40 has made it both start easier (less drag at low temps I assume), and some leaks have disappeared (probably due to an additive that helped the seals). Sticking to about 5k per change, it seems to be running just fine, even under high boost and low temps.

jep32

Robstah is right, ZDDP ppm is the issue, that's why I drive confidently with Brad Penn 20-50 in my mint S2. VR1 a great, convenient alternative as it does have high levels of ZDDP as well.

LuigiVampa

I did a lot of research and I think I am going with 20w50 Brad Penn Green Racing w/ Zinc. Seems to be exactly what the doctor ordered! Thanks for the input!

choinga

yup. This is so easy.

ernie9468

Agree with all of you on Brad Pen,the only reason it's not in my motor is,that up here you simply can't get it.Before I switch over to VR1 a guy in Montreal had a gallon of BP for sale but wanted close to a $100.00 for it & was not sure if he could supply me with some more in the future.