Gelb

So this year I'm planning on attending a few DE events at tracks around my area. I've autocrossed it a few times and loved it; now I want to try something a little more involved.

My 1986 944 Turbo is more or less stock: It has a 3" exhaust and a Lindsey racing chip, and I just put on new rubber (Toyo proxes 4). A friend suggested upgrading my brake pads (which have got to be replaced soon anyway), and to invest in a set of stainless braided brake lines.

Can you suggest some nice cost effective street/track brake pads? And are stainless brake lines recommended?

Also, is there anything else I should modify or setup before the DE events?


thanks

Van

Stainless steel lines are a nice upgrade, but not a necessity.

Spend some time on the Paragon Products web page. They have lots of stuff organized well.

David Floyd

Agreed

I been using Metalmaster pads, inexpensive,no noise on street and will work well for your first several DE's

Good fresh brake fluid is a must

Do a nut/bolt check, how is your alignment

FrenchToast

^+1 on the brake fluid. The whole system should be bled if not done so recently. Alternate between yellow and blue so you can tell the difference between old and new! May want to change the oil as well.

Get a set of steel lugnuts, as well as performance brake pads. Also make sure you have at least one accessible towhook on the car, whether it be in the rear behind the diffuser or one that screws into your front bumper.

Depending on your front suspension set up, you may want to look into getting aftermarket A-arms at some point. Since you have an '86, steel arms from an early car may be a good choice, but they have their weaknesses too. Check the aluminum arms for any cracks or flaws, also checking the ball joints. Make sure you have an undertray.

Standard practice to make sure your car is in good working order. You may be doing twice street speed, but that translates to probably 4-8 times the forces the car undergoes on the track than street. Make sure your tailights work, your door locks should be functioning properly (instructor should tell you to keep the doors unlocked).

Also if you're unfamiliar with the track you will be going to, look up an internet video of someones on-board camera for a few laps of the track, to familiarize yourself.

Don't know if you get Excellence Magazine but a month or two months ago they ran a good article about beginning DE events. Good article, the info holds true for pro drivers as well.

car_slave

I recommend PBR Ultimate Ceramic brake pads. I've done a bunch of track days with these I before started using dedicated track pads (PFC97). I have a lot of confidence in them, and you can run them on the street (which I do). The only drawback is that they give off a lot of dust. Really cheap too at $40 a set!
Metal Masters feel great on the street - in fact they felt so good that I left them in for some laps at the Watkins Glen. I did a warmup lap and then scared the crap out of myself braking into turn 1. I nursed my car through the rest of the session and swapped them out for the new set of PBRs which I brought with me in case the MMs didn't work out.
I'm not sure what the advantage of using stainless brake lines is? The OEM ones have the same interior tubing and are generally built better. You really have to keep a close eye on after market brakes lines. I have them on one of my cars and I've changed them twice because of safety concerns (routine track prep).
+1 on the fluid flush. Do some research on wet boiling points to see why.

choinga

You should definitely check out Carbotech. I put a set on my 951 last year and absolutely love them. Super sticky but very little dust. As you would imagine - they have a bunch of different types depending on what you're looking for.

I worked with Mike over there and he was great at helping me pick a set and matching them up with my Turbo S brak setup. Mike Puskar: jr@ctbrakes.com

http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads.asp?Make=Porsche

For what it's worth - I have the Turbo S (89-91 951) big brakes and they are CT609-1521's on the front and CT345-1521's in back. $147/$141 respectively. Mine have the brake pad wear sensor slots and he was going to have 'production' put those in for me.

Gelb

Thanks a bunch for the help so far. Looks like I'll just keep my OEM brake lines.

As for brake pads, I cannot seem to find a set of PBR Ultimate Ceramic brake pads that fit my 86 951.
I've been looking online for a while now and everywhere I see them they are sold out or unavailable.. LR and pelican don't seem to carry them, and paragon doesnt have them in my size..

If anyone could find a set could you please link me?

thanks for your time.

car_slave

You can get them at NAPA

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...(P_RecType%3aA)

This place has them
http://www.importrp.com/product.php?...8&cat=0&page=1

And here
http://catalog.brakewarehouse.com/it...UGEON&weight=4

I'm sure if you called Paragon they could get them also. I used to get them from Paragon, now I buy from my local import store - Bap-Geon

Rich Sandor

I've been tracking my 968 and 944turbo for about 10 years. I only just upgraded my race car to SS lines this year. I've been running the OEM lugnuts for the last 10 years without issue, but switching to open end steel nuts because my racing class require it.

#1, you are a novice. You don't need a racing setup yet. In fact, it might be beneficial to experience a slightly spongy pedal at novice speeds, as opposed to having it happen once you are overconfident and going a lot faster.

#2, BRAKE FLUID. Make sure it's ATE blue/gold or better, and make damn sure it's bled at least once a year, or preferably before every track day. Once you start building speed, you'll notice the benefit of upgrading to Motul RBF or Castrol high temp fluids.

#3, pads. I used metal masters for street (great) but they overheat and transfer heat to the brake fluid too easily when run hard at the track. I have used Pagid Orange, Performance Friction Pad 97s, Ferodo DS2500 and DS3000, and HAWK track pads. All have been pretty good. Some a little harder on rotors than others. The deciding purchase factor is usually cost and availability.

As you get more experienced, you will start to brake later, and harder, and put more stress on your brakes. Once you've covered pads, rotors, and fluid, and can't improve them anymore, you might want to upgrade to 968 brake cooling scoops. I've found they work much better than the oem 944 turbo scoops.

Gelb

Thanks alot for the help guys.

I just placed an order for PBR Ultimate Ceramics. I'll flush my brakes then install them when they get here.

Maybe i'll even wash it too, who knows.

thanks again.

David Floyd

Relax, listen to your instructor and have fun

LuigiVampa

You can't drive properly if you are moving around in your seat. If you don't have a harness bar and harness get one of these CG-Locks as it makes a huge difference:


If you are being thrown around in your seat it makes it really hard to work the peddles and shift.

Gelb

Yeah but honestly this is my first time out of (hopefully) many more to come. If I decide I like it I'll spend the money for a legit setup, but for now I'm more or less testing the waters to see if it's something I'd want to continue.

I appreciate the input though.

LuigiVampa

If you don;t want to spend the $50 on a CG-lock then twist the seat belt before locking it in - it will prevent the belt from moving.

Gelb

Will do, thanks!