How to reassemble ignition switch - Late 944
#1
How to reassemble ignition switch - Late 944
Hi,
I was reassembling my dash when I noticed that my Ignition cylinder carrier was crooked. I found that if I put the steering wheel on and turn a little that the whole carrier would rotate.
So I did that and got the carrier back into normal position, but when I did that all the lights came on as if the car was in 'accessory' position. After putting the key in, the key only had to turn once to on and once again to start the car. I assumed that the switch was either broken or misalligned.
I got underneath the dash and pulled off the back switch (it was already coming off) and this white piece fell out as well. So I ligned it up with the switch and then put the whole thing back together, but now when I put the key in the car is already set to "on" and the next turn starts the car. I then pulled the key out and the car started it self.
I assume that I didn't put the white piece inside back in the right orientation. Are there any pictures that I can use to get this put back together so that my car operates like normal? I've looked all over and no one talks about this specific assembly.
PS. I just installed a new TB/WP, and it seems like the TB is rubbing the paint or color off of the new water pump pulley. I am able to rotate the WP with my hand (barely), and the TB can be rotated 90 degrees. Is this coloration just a byproduct of a new pump?
Thanks.
I was reassembling my dash when I noticed that my Ignition cylinder carrier was crooked. I found that if I put the steering wheel on and turn a little that the whole carrier would rotate.
So I did that and got the carrier back into normal position, but when I did that all the lights came on as if the car was in 'accessory' position. After putting the key in, the key only had to turn once to on and once again to start the car. I assumed that the switch was either broken or misalligned.
I got underneath the dash and pulled off the back switch (it was already coming off) and this white piece fell out as well. So I ligned it up with the switch and then put the whole thing back together, but now when I put the key in the car is already set to "on" and the next turn starts the car. I then pulled the key out and the car started it self.
I assume that I didn't put the white piece inside back in the right orientation. Are there any pictures that I can use to get this put back together so that my car operates like normal? I've looked all over and no one talks about this specific assembly.
PS. I just installed a new TB/WP, and it seems like the TB is rubbing the paint or color off of the new water pump pulley. I am able to rotate the WP with my hand (barely), and the TB can be rotated 90 degrees. Is this coloration just a byproduct of a new pump?
Thanks.
#4
http://imgur.com/a/v4vnY (this is a link to the album).
#5
Nordschleife Master
ok, that clears things up completely.
You will need to be able to identify the wires and connectors on the back of the wiring connector plug, and trace them to the pins/brushes inside the ignition barrel. For example, there should be a thick red wire going into pin 30 on the electrical plug, and another thick red wire (with a black stripe) going in to pin 50.
What year is your car?
Based on my '86 wiring diagram (see attached) - (ign wiring should be the same for all late cars)
When the key is in position O , the metal rings should engage:
-Pin 30 - thick RED wire (main power wire for the entire unit)
-Pin P - thin GRAY wire
When the key is in the position R, the metal rings should engage:
-Pin 30 - thick RED wire
-Pin X - normal sized BLACK wire w/ YELLOW stripe
-Pin R - thin RED wire w/ BLACK stripe
When the key is in the position 1 (engine running), the metal rings should engage:
-Pin 30 - thick RED wire
-Pin X - normal sized BLACK wire w/ YELLOW stripe
-Pin 15 - normal sized BLACK wire (goes directly to IGNITION COIL pack)
-Pin R - thin RED wire w/ BLACK stripe
When the key is in the position 2 (crank position), the metal rings should engage:
-Pin 30 - thick RED wire
-Pin 15 - normal sized BLACK wire (goes directly to IGNITION COIL pack)
-Pin 50 - thick RED wire with BLACK stripe (leads directly to the STARTER)
-Pin R - thin RED wire w/ BLACK stripe
You will need to be able to identify the wires and connectors on the back of the wiring connector plug, and trace them to the pins/brushes inside the ignition barrel. For example, there should be a thick red wire going into pin 30 on the electrical plug, and another thick red wire (with a black stripe) going in to pin 50.
What year is your car?
Based on my '86 wiring diagram (see attached) - (ign wiring should be the same for all late cars)
When the key is in position O , the metal rings should engage:
-Pin 30 - thick RED wire (main power wire for the entire unit)
-Pin P - thin GRAY wire
When the key is in the position R, the metal rings should engage:
-Pin 30 - thick RED wire
-Pin X - normal sized BLACK wire w/ YELLOW stripe
-Pin R - thin RED wire w/ BLACK stripe
When the key is in the position 1 (engine running), the metal rings should engage:
-Pin 30 - thick RED wire
-Pin X - normal sized BLACK wire w/ YELLOW stripe
-Pin 15 - normal sized BLACK wire (goes directly to IGNITION COIL pack)
-Pin R - thin RED wire w/ BLACK stripe
When the key is in the position 2 (crank position), the metal rings should engage:
-Pin 30 - thick RED wire
-Pin 15 - normal sized BLACK wire (goes directly to IGNITION COIL pack)
-Pin 50 - thick RED wire with BLACK stripe (leads directly to the STARTER)
-Pin R - thin RED wire w/ BLACK stripe
#6
Okay, I'll check that out tomorrow. When I put the white piece into the ignition barrel, it feels like it can only go in two different ways, and doesn't turn easily at all. Is it possible that the spring inside the piece has something to do with this?
#7
Nordschleife Master
A way to make it a bit easier, is to have the key in the ignition and turned to off, and ensure that the white doohickey is engaging ONLY pins 30 and P.
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#8
And then I assume that pulling the key back out is supposed to pull the white thing back out thus removing the contact. That makes sense! Thank you.
#9
Nordschleife Master
I think the spring is the 'return spring' for then you let go of 'crank' and it pops back into 'run' You can use that knowledge to figure out which orientation makes the assembly work properly. It will also be critical that the copper metal 'ring' is correctly located and oriented on the white plastic.
As a word of caution, because you had installed the assembly incorrectly, there is a possibility that you have caused damage to the electrical system. Examine the entire wiring harness for signs that a possible short may have overheated the wiring and melted some of the plastic insulation. If you have any fused/melted wires, you could very possibly have an electrical fire in the future.
As a word of caution, because you had installed the assembly incorrectly, there is a possibility that you have caused damage to the electrical system. Examine the entire wiring harness for signs that a possible short may have overheated the wiring and melted some of the plastic insulation. If you have any fused/melted wires, you could very possibly have an electrical fire in the future.