divil

Can I use a nylock nut, or a plain nut with a split locking washer instead of the factory part (N 022 141 4)? I have been having problems with my camber settings drifting at the track. Would either of these options be better or worse than re-using the old part that's been re-tightened countless times?

Thanks.

Grandpa#3

A lock nut is to be used only one time because the locking ability has been compromised. The lock nut must be replaced with a new lock nut if you need to retain the locking ability of the original lock nut. I know people use the same nut over and over but the old lock nut is useless.

Cheers,
Larry

Van

Yes, replace that lower bolt and that upper bolt (eccentric) and the nuts regularly.

SamGrant951

I realize you could look at PET and order the parts but Paragon has a kit with nuts/bolts for $30 a side, I went that route (lazy)

divil

Thanks guys...I do plan to get the correct replacement, but I'm looking for a temporary solution in the meantime. Do you guys think it's better to leave the old one in there, or put a nylock nut in for now, or maybe a locking washer? I have a track event next weekend and I'm not sure if I'll be able to get the correct part before then.

Van

Sure - put a new lock nut on... any kind of lock nut! But, I think you're dealing with the bolt stretching.

mikey_audiogeek

Nylock nuts don't stop the nut coming loose, they just stop it falling off onto the ground. By then it's too late.

Loctite at a pinch (Loctite 290 can be applied AFTER the joint is assembled and torqued).

Get the replacement kit from Paragon - PRONTO!

Cheers,
Mike

divil

Thanks again guys...I thought I had all the replacement hardware ordered ages ago, but when I looked I could only find new bolts, so I was going to use those and get by with some locally sourced locking nut. But after thinking about it, there was no way I would have ordered the bolts without the locking nuts, so I looked a little harder, and it turns out I do have them. They are marked as rear toe bolts but they are the same part

I'm also going to put a washer in on the other side where there is none, hopefully that will help too.

mikey_audiogeek

Good find!

Al the best for the weekend

Cheers,
Mike

bordin34

The washer is also an eccentric washer with a flat in it that mates with the bolt.

divil

Yeah I actually don't have new eccentric bolts so I'll just be replacing the lower bolts and all the locking nuts for now. I should have included those...but not to worry, if it holds for one weekend I'll be happy, because I'll be making more suspension changes after that anyway. This kind of thing is why I decided to learn to do alignments myself

Jason @ Paragon Products

Fits in a small Priority Mail flat rate box too!

http://www.paragon-products.com/Stru...rutboltkit.htm

JacRyann

Use a star-lockwasher.

CosmosMoon

I know the thread is 7 years old but wanted to mention to anyone who doesn’t know that Mcmaster-Carr sells high strength (grade 10) flange nuts with deformed-thread locking - just like the factory nuts - in most metric sizes. As an industrial supplier they list all the detailed specs / ratings on everything. They always have everything in stock and typically deliver in a day. They also have 10.9-rating bolts with anti-corrosion coating (sadly only fully threaded and limited sizes- zinc-coated ones come in a lot of varieties). They are a great resource. Extended-tip bots, cotter-locks, oil-resistant rubber washers- all kinds of stuff. The list of filters is extensive, so it can take some work to find the perfect part.
https://www.mcmaster.com/product/3528N14

https://www.mcmaster.com/content/scr...***~class-10-9

DSMblue

McMaster's 10.9 bolts are not useful for Porsche applications, as the thread pitch is incorrect. PET shows bolts and nuts as M12x1.5. While McMaster has a lot of good stuff, I find that Belmetric.com is better for finding proper bolts, nuts, washers, etc. for our applications.