'86 951 5-speed: rear differential fluid = transmission fluid?
#16
If I can get under the car enough to get leverage on the drain & fill plugs, I would try it myself. After seeing the YouTube videos, it looks hard for someone without a lift and room for a four foot breaker bar.
#17
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Always make sure you can loosen the filler location before draining all the fluid out.
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#18
Three Wheelin'
It isn't hard,
BUT,
If you take the left rear wheel off, jack the car high enough in the air and block it up with 6x6s or enough timber to keep it level and flat with the 2 ton hydraulic jack, you will do just fine.
I used a new 17 mm allen headed wrench and they came out fine (factory torqued when it was new), but if the p.o. overtightened the plugs, you will need more than what I used. Refer to the breaker bar (-;
And yes, by all means take the top plug out first, because you don't want all the fluid in the pan and no way to get in more
BUT,
If you take the left rear wheel off, jack the car high enough in the air and block it up with 6x6s or enough timber to keep it level and flat with the 2 ton hydraulic jack, you will do just fine.
I used a new 17 mm allen headed wrench and they came out fine (factory torqued when it was new), but if the p.o. overtightened the plugs, you will need more than what I used. Refer to the breaker bar (-;
And yes, by all means take the top plug out first, because you don't want all the fluid in the pan and no way to get in more
#19
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Yes if you any trouble with the fill plug, get a good socket rather than a 17mm coupling nut or some other kludge. I have never had a problem with them, just lucky I guess.
It's no problem to do it with the car on jackstands. When they are out we can argue about using anti-seize, a layer of pipe tape, axle grease, etc. on the threads for next time. A dab of grease or anti-seize would be my choice. Obviously not a lot.
It's no problem to do it with the car on jackstands. When they are out we can argue about using anti-seize, a layer of pipe tape, axle grease, etc. on the threads for next time. A dab of grease or anti-seize would be my choice. Obviously not a lot.
#20
Burning Brakes
#21
Just a car guy
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Something that has not been covered here (to my knowledge) is how to gain access to the fill plug hole with the fluid. Siphon pumps or pouring right from the bottle are a royal pain and usually result in more lube missing than actually entering the transaxle.
I have been using a method for years on my 944s and other cars with rear differentials: Look for a relatively high place on the body that can be reached with a length of 1/2" diameter hose. On the 944, this is about half way up the spare tire well. From under the car, drill a 3/4" hole (use a step drill bit) into the well. This should be offset to the side of the car where the fill plug is located. Be sure there is nothing on the other side you wouldn't want scratched or damaged (spare wheel/tire for example).
Clean the burrs from the hole. Now thread a length of hose through the hole -- usually about 18" of hose is enough. I use a brass nipple to push into the end of the hose and then shove into the fill plug hole. Now the other end of the hose will accept a funnel. Prop the funnel up so it is fairly level and positioned in a way that it won't flop around or tip.
Now just pour in your trans lube of choice until you reach the full level. Allow plenty of time for the fluid to work its way through the hose so you make less of a mess when you take it all apart.
Use a 3/4" rubber plug to seal off the hole. Makes the job so much easier everytime you need to change trans lube.
I have been using a method for years on my 944s and other cars with rear differentials: Look for a relatively high place on the body that can be reached with a length of 1/2" diameter hose. On the 944, this is about half way up the spare tire well. From under the car, drill a 3/4" hole (use a step drill bit) into the well. This should be offset to the side of the car where the fill plug is located. Be sure there is nothing on the other side you wouldn't want scratched or damaged (spare wheel/tire for example).
Clean the burrs from the hole. Now thread a length of hose through the hole -- usually about 18" of hose is enough. I use a brass nipple to push into the end of the hose and then shove into the fill plug hole. Now the other end of the hose will accept a funnel. Prop the funnel up so it is fairly level and positioned in a way that it won't flop around or tip.
Now just pour in your trans lube of choice until you reach the full level. Allow plenty of time for the fluid to work its way through the hose so you make less of a mess when you take it all apart.
Use a 3/4" rubber plug to seal off the hole. Makes the job so much easier everytime you need to change trans lube.
#22
I use this pump from harbor freight, it works very well:
http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-u...ump-66418.html
I cut each of the hoses down so its just long enough to reach the into the bottle and the fill. I drain and fill with the car with it on the ground, using a nut welded to a pipe for my wrench, filled right to the top of the fill plug, and I don't use anything on the threads. I use Redline MT-90 in both my 944, Daytona transaxles, and in my Tacoma's transmission after 3000 miles to help with the cold shifting.
http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-u...ump-66418.html
I cut each of the hoses down so its just long enough to reach the into the bottle and the fill. I drain and fill with the car with it on the ground, using a nut welded to a pipe for my wrench, filled right to the top of the fill plug, and I don't use anything on the threads. I use Redline MT-90 in both my 944, Daytona transaxles, and in my Tacoma's transmission after 3000 miles to help with the cold shifting.
Last edited by marc abrams; 06-02-2015 at 09:49 AM.
#23
Burning Brakes
#24
Drifting
the pump sold for filling the lower unit on outboards works well..about 100 squirts per liter but no mess.
I think my fill plug was tightened to 10,000 ft pounds...
edit similar to what chicks linked to...about ten bucks at china mart.
I think my fill plug was tightened to 10,000 ft pounds...
edit similar to what chicks linked to...about ten bucks at china mart.
#25
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We sell quite a few of these:
http://www.paragon-products.com/Flui...p-p/sl4344.htm
Screws right into the Swepco bottle.
http://www.paragon-products.com/Flui...p-p/sl4344.htm
Screws right into the Swepco bottle.
#26
We sell quite a few of these:
http://www.paragon-products.com/Flui...p-p/sl4344.htm
Screws right into the Swepco bottle.
http://www.paragon-products.com/Flui...p-p/sl4344.htm
Screws right into the Swepco bottle.
Just did this. Simple.
#27
It's hard to change the rear differential oil in a 944 without changing the transmission oil (real hard). It's also hard to want to, as there is no combustion back there the oil lasts a long, long time. I think the spec is to change at 60K but you could consult your manual and as always adjust to account for track usage, boat towing, etc.
If you have an LSD your transaxle oil choice needs to account for this.
-Joel.
If you have an LSD your transaxle oil choice needs to account for this.
-Joel.
#28
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Reviving this thread...but this is exaclty what I was thinking....I got in my 951 a Turbo S transaxle, (oil cooler & LSD) so should be, for example REDLINE MT90 75W-90 GL-4 with or with out NS ? I recall using with NS when I changed the oil in my old 993tt LSD transaxle. Just Redline doesn't list or point out the NS variant for the 951 or doesn't even mention if equipped or not the LSD option.
#29
Advanced
Porsche has *required* GL-5 fluid in all manual transmissions since issuing a TSB on that topic in 1988, which I reproduced here: http://www.connactivity.com/~kgross/...tb.3.8813.html Redline's text on the negatives of GL-5 to brass synchros is ancient history: oil manufacturers updated their formulas decades ago to remedy that problem ("reactive sulfurs"). Perhaps Redline has not. I don't recommend their fluid, although I know it's bizarrely popular on the Internet.
Regards,
D
Last edited by Duhvinci; 04-17-2022 at 11:47 AM.
#30
Porsche has *required* GL-5 fluid in all manual transmissions since issuing a TSB on that topic in 1988, which I reproduced here: http://www.connactivity.com/~kgross/...tb.3.8813.html Redline's text on the negatives of GL-5 to brass synchros is ancient history: oil manufacturers updated their formulas decades ago to remedy that problem ("reactive sulfurs"). Perhaps Redline has not. I don't recommend their fluid, although I know it's bizarrely popular on the Internet.
I was looking to get the SWEPCO 201 as well. What do you think about it? Or maybe the Swpco MolyXP 75w90 Synthetic Gear Lube ? Both doesn't seem to display if they are GL4/5 but at least the brochure does specify for the 202, the Porsche transaxle.