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Soooo..... my alarm decided to kill my car. I've made jumpers per Clark's Garage but the spades arent thin enough to seat deep enough in the alarm connector. DO you leave the factory cables installed and put the spaded jumper in the same slot simultaneously? Should they be snug in the connector? Do you remove the white plastic 8-wire connector from the alarm, plug the spade jumper in, then test...or do you re-connect it to the actual alarm module first.
This is probably the most frustrated I've been with this car in 8 years of ownership. This is for my 86 N/A...tested the DME already.
Thanks!
What type of spade connector...the one that looks like a 2 pronged fork...or a flat head one? I'm failing to understand how this connects securely when the factory wire is already attached. Can someone shed some light on this? Why use a spade at all if it's not going to stay snug...
Soooo..... my alarm decided to kill my car. I've made jumpers per Clark's Garage but the spades arent thin enough to seat deep enough in the alarm connector. DO you leave the factory cables installed and put the spaded jumper in the same slot simultaneously? Should they be snug in the connector? Do you remove the white plastic 8-wire connector from the alarm, plug the spade jumper in, then test...or do you re-connect it to the actual alarm module first.
This is probably the most frustrated I've been with this car in 8 years of ownership. This is for my 86 N/A...tested the DME already.
Thanks!
What type of spade connector...the one that looks like a 2 pronged fork...or a flat head one? I'm failing to understand how this connects securely when the factory wire is already attached. Can someone shed some light on this? Why use a spade at all if it's not going to stay snug...
I was just cleaning up some crap, and came across this. Hopefully it'll help you.
The way it looked to me (Clarks instructions),is to disconnect the alarm from the harness and jumper the correct pins. Appears Van has the same idea. My engine didnt run to well and the alt. light was on so I would say not a permanent way to delete the alarm. So I just plugged the alarm back in until I rewire the whole system. Good luck, but I would get a new alarm module ordered.
This whole crap situation started when I decided to change my odometer gear...which lead to breaking the speedometer pin. I drove the car without a cluster for 2 weeks waiting for a new speedometer. I put the speedometer in the cluster with new LED prisms. Put it back in the car and now it wont start. What could have I have done...I drove it yesterday. I have a viper alarm in my car and it wont respond now either. Car just clicks when turning the key. I have taken my cluster out a few times before and never had an issue.
Van...so you dont need the actual module installed to over-ride the protect mode? Just jump it like the picture you posted? That's a different method that what was posted on clark's garage. They jumped it from the white connector.
Can someone please explain what my jumper cables should look like? Or how it attaches? I've made two different versions..one with a forked end and one set with a looped end. Are they supposed to attached to anything or just touch the wire that is already in the socket? Neither have worked...and want to make sure I'm doing this correctly..so to rule it out. I've even tried using bare ended wire to make sure it actually making contact.
When I plugged the alarm back into the white attachment...the horn beeped 3-4 time then stopped. Not sure if this is a positive sign or not...
I'm pretty much ****ed...as I dont know what to do here...and have a car the was running perfect yesterday. I'm about ready to just light this ****ing thing on fire.
This is what the Clark's garage photo looked like..but said nothing about what the jumper/spade looked like. As you can see..there are already wires from the harness with spades attached ..so how do you attached a second spade from the jumper?
Try unplugging the whole module with the jumpers attached?
But they cant attach to anything..they become loose. That's why I'm trying to figure out what type of spade they used. I've been to home depot twice..looking at every type made. The harness wires are attached with a female flat spade ends to the male connectors from the module. Nothing I've seen available would fit over that...this is ridiculous. I've spent all day on this..
Can anyone think of what could have happened while installing a cluster...that would trigger a non-start issue? It's the only thing I did to the car. Maybe I somehow fried the ECU? All lights come on, radio works but the horn quit...and the starter just clicks. I tested the DME with a spare. The strange thing is my viper alarm remote is unresponsive too...like it's being over-ridden. I have this car since 2007...never had an electrical issue.
If the starter is clicking, then it's getting power. Sounds like the battery might just be drained... You've tried jump starting it? Or put a multimeter on the battery to read voltage?
If the starter is clicking, then it's getting power. Sounds like the battery might just be drained... You've tried jump starting it? Or put a multimeter on the battery to read voltage?
No...It's not turning over at all. Hasn't turned over since I installed the cluster. I do remember hearing a kind of electrical sound from the rear when I first started trying to crank it. I'm assuming that was the pump but that noise stopped. All dome lights are bright...
Would reference sensors cause this type of no start? It would be one hell of a coincidence for them to fail simultaneously with installing the cluster. Wouldn't explain my viper alarm going wonky though..
Would reference sensors cause this type of no start? It would be one hell of a coincidence for them to fail simultaneously with installing the cluster. Wouldn't explain my viper alarm going wonky though..
The speed and reference sensors have nothing to do with the engine turning over. The starter motor is really simple... When you turn the key to the start position, 12 volts goes to the starter solenoid (the "click") - this solenoid is a big switch for a cable going directly from the battery to the starter. The 12 volts in this cable is what makes the starter spin, which cranks the engine.
If the starter is not spinning, but you're hearing the click, it's one of two things: low battery voltage or a bad starter.
If the viper is going wonky, I'd check for low voltage first (dead battery).
Starters go bad. And so do batteries. Batteries also get drained... on these cars it can be drained from something simple like leaving the key on when you replaced the instrument cluster... Or perhaps one of the door switches didn't register that the door was shut and the power window relay stayed on (ever notice how you can open and close the windows after you remove the key, but before you open the door?).
Either get a set of jumper cables and see if jump starting it works, or get a multimeter and measure the voltage on the battery.
I hope you are right...just in the past when the battery was low..the engine would at least try to turn over. There have been times where the starter wasn't clicking....just nothing. Maybe the jumper fixed the alarm over-ride... but by then the battery was drained.
Finally found a picture of the proper spade heads for the jumper....of course this was the one type Home Depot didn't have. I guess you put them on the far edges of the white adapter and they stay in place....
I was just cleaning up some crap, and came across this. Hopefully it'll help you.
I didn't know what this was when you first posted it...I thought maybe it was from an early car that had the adapter behind the radio. I will buy that from you...just hit me with shipping to 60647 and I will paypal you.
06-21-2015, 04:38 PM
Help... Stranded
