getting a grip on the fuel filter - which wrench?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
getting a grip on the fuel filter - which wrench?
working on jack stands, which is part of the problem compared to the leverage and visibility on a proper jack, but the other day i kind of gave up on trying to get my fuel filter off. just wasn't getting the right grip and had to use an adjustable wrench in one of my hands.
does anyone have an offhand favorite combo of wrenches to get the damn thing off? giving up isn't fun, but usually its due to lacking the right tool
i also forget which sizes are on both sides?
thanks
does anyone have an offhand favorite combo of wrenches to get the damn thing off? giving up isn't fun, but usually its due to lacking the right tool
i also forget which sizes are on both sides?
thanks
#6
Rennlist Member
I've always been able to put a wrench on the nut and a wrench on the hex molded into the filter - positioned in such a way they're like a slightly open scissor, then I can squeeze both wrenches together and break the nut free.
Trending Topics
#9
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bucks, Herts, Beds Tri-Border, UK
Posts: 1,138
Received 84 Likes
on
68 Posts
Doing the same myself. Open-end spanners of 19mm or 3/4" (both spot on). The fuel pipe union is 19mm as is the filter to pipe union, so can 'scissor press' using two 19mm spanners as mentuioned already. Open flared spanners (a la brake pipe spanner) won't fit pump side for sure (not sure about engine side though).
I've loosened off both, eventually. Fuel pi**ing out everywhere. Presuming it's only the fuel in the filter and part lines so will need to let that drain first into a bowl/whatever.
I've loosened off both, eventually. Fuel pi**ing out everywhere. Presuming it's only the fuel in the filter and part lines so will need to let that drain first into a bowl/whatever.
#10
Rennlist Member
The fittings are all 17 or 19 mm, I believe. I recommend using "flare nut" type wrenches that grip all six sides of the fitting when opening (removing) the connections: they can get pretty gnarly with age, corrosion, and overly eager prior tightening.
Use anti-seize on the threads when reinstalling, and unless you do this job all the time, torque to spec. Make sure the sealing surfaces are clean and undamaged before assembling, and you should not have to overtighten them for a proper seal.
Use anti-seize on the threads when reinstalling, and unless you do this job all the time, torque to spec. Make sure the sealing surfaces are clean and undamaged before assembling, and you should not have to overtighten them for a proper seal.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
man...
this is a brutal one. the flare wrenches were super helpful, i just didn't have any more force to give it to get the pump side out of the fuel filter.
now i am going down the path of replacing the hose from fuel pump to filter, and maybe get some other custom hoses made.
will DEF be using anti seize next time around, this has been ridiculous, especially for how small and weak the nut is on the hoses, to have to wrench on them like that. failing sucks, but hopefully i can find a way around this annoying boulder.
this is a brutal one. the flare wrenches were super helpful, i just didn't have any more force to give it to get the pump side out of the fuel filter.
now i am going down the path of replacing the hose from fuel pump to filter, and maybe get some other custom hoses made.
will DEF be using anti seize next time around, this has been ridiculous, especially for how small and weak the nut is on the hoses, to have to wrench on them like that. failing sucks, but hopefully i can find a way around this annoying boulder.
#12
Rennlist Member
Forgot to mention: use two wrenches, counter holding as you break the connection. Position them so that you're squeezing them together, perhaps using just one hand but two if you need to. Good luck!