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early models use the dash light in series with the exciter current ie, blown bulb, no current
Most if not all manufacturers use a resistor parallel with the charge light lamp to prevent a blown bulb from keeping the vehicle/stationary machinery from charging. They sometimes don't show it in the wiring diagrams but it's there.
thanks everyone for the suggestion. It is very helpful.
I did a voltage drop test against the positive connector on the alternator. Turn out the alternator is dead. I bring the alternator to autoparts store and they test it confirm that it is dead as well (even with the new voltage regulator)
So... another $200 for parts. Let see how it goes.
well, I have bigger problem. my alternator belt shredded into slices. Only half of the belt left. Probably because I haven't tighten up the AC compressor!
I managed to finished my day by driving under 2500rpm with no AC and persist as much electricity as possible (in case the remaining belt broke off) I will show picture later.
12.3 volts is only 65% charge. 12.6 would be 100% charged. You need a fully charged battery to check the alternator's voltage.
I got a Bosch rebuilt alternator also for my car. But I needed to swap over the fan and pulley because it didn't with those items. Hard to tell from the picture but the pulley looks different.
I got a Bosch rebuilt alternator also for my car. But I needed to swap over the fan and pulley because it didn't with those items. Hard to tell from the picture but the pulley looks different.
That might be why my belt got destroyed! I look at the new alternator, the pully is thicker and leave a little gapbetween the pully lips and the belt itself. I probably swap the fan/pully like you do. Thanks!
07-30-2016, 11:13 AM
