My $100 1983 944 Farm Find Mud Rescue Resurrection Thread
10-23-2018, 05:01 PM
#106
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10-23-2018, 05:51 PM
#107
Racer
10-24-2018, 02:12 PM
#108
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10-24-2018, 02:39 PM
#109
Racer
10-24-2018, 05:55 PM
#111
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I think form you pics/video the other day, it runs well on brake cleaner..That's a real PLUS! There are several injectors that will work better?/substitute/ in this car than the original Bosch ones. Because I was broke at the time and my injectors were all locked up solid...I bought some GM injectors (for a Buick) I think for about 40.00 a piece...IIRC.
10-24-2018, 06:02 PM
#112
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I think form you pics/video the other day, it runs well on brake cleaner..That's a real PLUS! There are several injectors that will work better?/substitute/ in this car than the original Bosch ones. Because I was broke at the time and my injectors were all locked up solid...I bought some GM injectors (for a Buick) I think for about 40.00 a piece...IIRC.
10-25-2018, 12:02 AM
#113
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Okay so we got new injectors anyways and even after throwing them on, the thang ding still won’t run. We did check the new injectors for atomization, and they all squart. The car will attempt to fire, make it to somewhere between 500 and 1000 rpms, then die. I’ve uploaded a video of our start attempts:
the only part of the fuel system we haven’t touched is the pressure regulator and dampener. I suppose that’s where I’ll go next. I borrowed the pressure tester from Oreilley’s but it didn’t have a fitting that would go on the fuel rail so all I can really do is eyeball how much fuel sprays out when I pull the fuel rail cap off.
the only part of the fuel system we haven’t touched is the pressure regulator and dampener. I suppose that’s where I’ll go next. I borrowed the pressure tester from Oreilley’s but it didn’t have a fitting that would go on the fuel rail so all I can really do is eyeball how much fuel sprays out when I pull the fuel rail cap off.
10-25-2018, 04:24 PM
#114
Racer
So you have new injectors and they work so you're going to change the FPR&FPD for the heck of it? There are tests for those two parts. Check out this page https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1WuZuPcVuqM
for troubleshooting a no start. I'm not saying this is what's wrong with your P-car but it's a path to follow. That is assuming the timing is correct,that you have compression etc.
for troubleshooting a no start. I'm not saying this is what's wrong with your P-car but it's a path to follow. That is assuming the timing is correct,that you have compression etc.
10-25-2018, 05:56 PM
#115
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I figured it out. Whoever had made the fuel pump wires decided that RED was negative and BLACK was positive. I hooked up the pump assuming the wires were made by a sane person, so the pump was running backwards! That's why when I primed it with my booster pack it worked perfectly, pressurizing the rail, but when I didn't it wouldn't.
Low and behold when I went to start it, something amazing happened!
Low and behold when I went to start it, something amazing happened!
10-25-2018, 08:29 PM
#118
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Sure does!
Thanks!
So unfortunately I cannot drive it yet. The right front brake caliper is seized solid. I cannot compress it. Not sure what to do other than pull it off and rebuild it. I could spray it with PB Blaster to try and just unstick it a bit, but I don't know if that will help.
Thanks!
So unfortunately I cannot drive it yet. The right front brake caliper is seized solid. I cannot compress it. Not sure what to do other than pull it off and rebuild it. I could spray it with PB Blaster to try and just unstick it a bit, but I don't know if that will help.
10-28-2018, 08:35 AM
#119
Rennlist Member
Take it apart..Mine were lumps of rust (all 4). Glad to hear the engine running! I took the less recommended way and just went to AutoZone and bought the hydraulic section of the caliper with a lifetime warranty. Take a few pics on how they are assembled before taking them apart. Or, just take one apart at a time and reassemble it before going to the other. You can beadblast and derust all the heavy parts prior to painting...Getting the heavy wire clip onto the caliper can be frustrating if you don't have something to go by..Just saying..
10-29-2018, 02:47 PM
#120
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It runs and drives!!
been driving it around. Definitely needs tires, wheel balancing, and an alignment. Oil pressure is a bit low as well, reads about 1.5 bar at 900rpm idle. For now I’ve raised the idle to 1050rpm which keeps it at just a hair under 2 bar. Might be the crank pully not being tight enough, or the relief valve according to clark’s Garage.
Good news: the clutch is solid! No terrifying transaxle drop for me!
The sunroof leaks a bit, so it’ll have to stay indoors on rainy season.
Overall it drives well and the engine pulls really strong. I’m stoked.