‘87 928S4 How do I hand crank the engine on a car that has been sitting many years?
03-03-2018, 07:09 PM
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‘87 928S4 How do I hand crank the engine on a car that has been sitting many years?
I have seen references to turning the engine by hand with a socket and long wrench but they all had many pieces of the front of the engine removed; is it possible to do this without disassembly or not much disassembly?
Thank you in advance for any helpful advice!
Thank you in advance for any helpful advice!
03-03-2018, 08:07 PM
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One can do it from the top, but with difficulty. It is far easier to secure the front end on jack stands and drop the undertray ( handful of screws): then, fish a 27mm socket on a 1.5" - 3" extension on a long handle 1/2" drive ratchet into the nose of the crank/harmonic balancer ..... and almost ready to turn clockwise. Before doing so, as noted that the car has been sitting for years, I would at a minimum, remove the plugs and spray a 'misting oil' into each cylinder as the rings are Sahara dry. If your auto parts store does not have the misting oil, any light motor oil will do .... but the misting type has the benefit of an aerosol propellant.
Also, one objective in turning it over is to peek at the timing belt, so the cam covers can be removed.
With plugs out, it should turn smoothly - if it 'fetches up', stop and repost. If all goes well, the compression cycles can be verified by feel on the wrench turning with the plugs reinstalled.
Also, one objective in turning it over is to peek at the timing belt, so the cam covers can be removed.
With plugs out, it should turn smoothly - if it 'fetches up', stop and repost. If all goes well, the compression cycles can be verified by feel on the wrench turning with the plugs reinstalled.
03-04-2018, 09:16 AM
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One can do it from the top, but with difficulty. It is far easier to secure the front end on jack stands and drop the undertray ( handful of screws): then, fish a 27mm socket on a 1.5" - 3" extension on a long handle 1/2" drive ratchet into the nose of the crank/harmonic balancer ..... and almost ready to turn clockwise. Before doing so, as noted that the car has been sitting for years, I would at a minimum, remove the plugs and spray a 'misting oil' into each cylinder as the rings are Sahara dry. If your auto parts store does not have the misting oil, any light motor oil will do .... but the misting type has the benefit of an aerosol propellant.
Also, one objective in turning it over is to peek at the timing belt, so the cam covers can be removed.
With plugs out, it should turn smoothly - if it 'fetches up', stop and repost. If all goes well, the compression cycles can be verified by feel on the wrench turning with the plugs reinstalled.
Also, one objective in turning it over is to peek at the timing belt, so the cam covers can be removed.
With plugs out, it should turn smoothly - if it 'fetches up', stop and repost. If all goes well, the compression cycles can be verified by feel on the wrench turning with the plugs reinstalled.
I have sprayed the Sta-Bil Fogging Oil, but I have some doubts about it:
1. I tested the fogging oil outside, it just sprays out of the little red tube like any spray can product would.
2. The short red tube couldn’t reach the spark plug hole. So I duct taped the tube to the can, so it wouldn’t fall off in to the cylinder chamber, then I used a regular drinking straw to reach the cylinder opening and sprayed it through the straw. I tried to rotate the straw to reach more areas but it just wouldn’t work for me.
3. I’m not sure that the oil went anywhere but down and fell to one side of the piston / cylinder wall, but it’s in there.
4. I was thinking about adding Marvel Mystery Oil, but it is probably redundant to the fogging oil that’s there already.
I guess I will just give it a try manually per your instructions. Hate to have to remove / reinstall the spark plugs a 3rd time but... The fuel injectors are out of the car at the moment, but I can see that the valves are closed or very near it if not so that’s probably not a work around.
Thank you for taking the time to help me.
Charles
03-04-2018, 12:12 PM
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03-04-2018, 01:07 PM
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Useful info to others that may be reading this in the future: Amazon sells 10” and 50” extension tubes for spray cans (cut with a razor to your desired length). I just ordered the two pack of 50” tubes to reach in to the cylinders better with the fogging spray. I wish Marvel Mystery was available in an aerosol can.
03-04-2018, 02:13 PM
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Sorry, I'm a day late to the party. But I'm awake and alert for a change. Thoughts:
-- It's perfectly acceptable to use a 1 1/16" 6pt deep impact socket for the crank nose. Consider too that you'll likely need the same socket to remove that crank nose bolt for the timing belt replacement you'll be doing before you actually start the engine, so it could be a 3/4"-drive version. Purists: difference is less than half a thousandth of an inch vs. 27mm.
-- Garth suggests removing the "cam covers", and I want to clarify for you that these are really the top "cam BELT covers". You'll get into the cam covers soon enough (metal covers with spark plug holes), but that's a separate adventure.
-- Marvel Mystery Oil or some ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is the weapon of choice for penetrating and perhaps freeing up rings that may be stuck a little in the piston grooves. The soda-straw idea is great, but you may want to form a bend near the end to direct the flow towards the top of piston, then let the fluid fall towards the bottom and soak everything. Put enough in there to do some good, like an ounce or two, and let it sit for a few days to do it's magic. After the few days, a good portion of the fluid will have washed through the rings and grooves. There will still be some in the cylinders, so tuck a paper towel in the wells in the cam cover to grab it while you rotate the crankshaft by hand.
-- The 928 block is alusil (aluminum with embedded silicon) around the bores, so there's no issue with the bores rusting during storage. The piston skirts are iron coated and can rust, but they won't stick in the bore. Your lubrication effort is to get the rings free, and offer a start-up film to the piston skirts.
-- Leave the plugs out until you've had a chance to crank the engine through a few revolutions by hand and then a few seconds on the starter. Remove the ignition fuse while you do all this, so there's no fuel pump running or injectors spraying. Leave it out until you've had a chance to drain and clean the tank, clean and test the pump(s), and replace the fuel filter. No need to pump stale fuel and crud through the system. The remaining ATF or MMO will eject from the plug holes and through the exhaust valves, so leave those paper towels stuffed into the plug wells or risk a mess.
-- As you turn the engine by hand the first time, watch the timing belt and the gear positions. At TDC on #1 cylinder (marked as 0 T on the balancer) make sure that the two cam drive gears have their timing notches lined up with the V indexing mark on the backing plate behind them. You can be off half a tooth with no worries. The cams turn at half of crankshaft speed, so if there are no marks visible when the crank pointer shows TDC, rotate the crank 360º (one full revolution) and look again. Know that you MUST NOT turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise due to the design of the belt tensioner. If the cam timing is off by more than a tooth or two, plan to re-index the belt and do a basic leakdown test for bent valves before you go much farther. Come back to the group here for more guidance if the cam timing is off.
--------
Housekeeping:
Welcome to the 928 group! The 928 forum is blessed with perhaps the most supportive and friendly group of owners/enthusiasts of any car site I've visited. The basic guidance is to read the "new visitors" sticky at the top of the first page of this forum. Start a new thread with some history on the car and yourself. No good introduction thread is complete without some pictures. Share your location, and others in your area will chime in to the welcome. Another set of educated/experienced eyes will help you avoid common and often expensive mistakes along the way. Many of us can be bribed with lunch and a cold beer to provide support help on tasks you'll tackle.
Step up to full membership in the group. It's less than $20/yr last time I looked, and represents the best investment you'll make in your car. New users will save back the membership cost with the first bit of good advice they receive here, and that interest compounds momentarily when you find yourself stuck on something. Membership thins the embedded ads, allows you to post want-to-buy and for-sale items you'll want along the way. Non-members and members get the same support from the group of course. Remember that we are all in the same boat that you are, we've just been rowing a little longer. Join and strengthen the group. Click the membership tab and follow the easy directions. Add a signature that includes your location and the year of your car, so you don't have to retype it in every post.
Again, welcome to the Rennlist 928 group!
-- It's perfectly acceptable to use a 1 1/16" 6pt deep impact socket for the crank nose. Consider too that you'll likely need the same socket to remove that crank nose bolt for the timing belt replacement you'll be doing before you actually start the engine, so it could be a 3/4"-drive version. Purists: difference is less than half a thousandth of an inch vs. 27mm.
-- Garth suggests removing the "cam covers", and I want to clarify for you that these are really the top "cam BELT covers". You'll get into the cam covers soon enough (metal covers with spark plug holes), but that's a separate adventure.
-- Marvel Mystery Oil or some ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is the weapon of choice for penetrating and perhaps freeing up rings that may be stuck a little in the piston grooves. The soda-straw idea is great, but you may want to form a bend near the end to direct the flow towards the top of piston, then let the fluid fall towards the bottom and soak everything. Put enough in there to do some good, like an ounce or two, and let it sit for a few days to do it's magic. After the few days, a good portion of the fluid will have washed through the rings and grooves. There will still be some in the cylinders, so tuck a paper towel in the wells in the cam cover to grab it while you rotate the crankshaft by hand.
-- The 928 block is alusil (aluminum with embedded silicon) around the bores, so there's no issue with the bores rusting during storage. The piston skirts are iron coated and can rust, but they won't stick in the bore. Your lubrication effort is to get the rings free, and offer a start-up film to the piston skirts.
-- Leave the plugs out until you've had a chance to crank the engine through a few revolutions by hand and then a few seconds on the starter. Remove the ignition fuse while you do all this, so there's no fuel pump running or injectors spraying. Leave it out until you've had a chance to drain and clean the tank, clean and test the pump(s), and replace the fuel filter. No need to pump stale fuel and crud through the system. The remaining ATF or MMO will eject from the plug holes and through the exhaust valves, so leave those paper towels stuffed into the plug wells or risk a mess.
-- As you turn the engine by hand the first time, watch the timing belt and the gear positions. At TDC on #1 cylinder (marked as 0 T on the balancer) make sure that the two cam drive gears have their timing notches lined up with the V indexing mark on the backing plate behind them. You can be off half a tooth with no worries. The cams turn at half of crankshaft speed, so if there are no marks visible when the crank pointer shows TDC, rotate the crank 360º (one full revolution) and look again. Know that you MUST NOT turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise due to the design of the belt tensioner. If the cam timing is off by more than a tooth or two, plan to re-index the belt and do a basic leakdown test for bent valves before you go much farther. Come back to the group here for more guidance if the cam timing is off.
--------
Housekeeping:
Welcome to the 928 group! The 928 forum is blessed with perhaps the most supportive and friendly group of owners/enthusiasts of any car site I've visited. The basic guidance is to read the "new visitors" sticky at the top of the first page of this forum. Start a new thread with some history on the car and yourself. No good introduction thread is complete without some pictures. Share your location, and others in your area will chime in to the welcome. Another set of educated/experienced eyes will help you avoid common and often expensive mistakes along the way. Many of us can be bribed with lunch and a cold beer to provide support help on tasks you'll tackle.
Step up to full membership in the group. It's less than $20/yr last time I looked, and represents the best investment you'll make in your car. New users will save back the membership cost with the first bit of good advice they receive here, and that interest compounds momentarily when you find yourself stuck on something. Membership thins the embedded ads, allows you to post want-to-buy and for-sale items you'll want along the way. Non-members and members get the same support from the group of course. Remember that we are all in the same boat that you are, we've just been rowing a little longer. Join and strengthen the group. Click the membership tab and follow the easy directions. Add a signature that includes your location and the year of your car, so you don't have to retype it in every post.
Again, welcome to the Rennlist 928 group!
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03-04-2018, 03:16 PM
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Sorry, I'm a day late to the party. But I'm awake and alert for a change. Thoughts:
-- It's perfectly acceptable to use a 1 1/16" 6pt deep impact socket for the crank nose. Consider too that you'll likely need the same socket to remove that crank nose bolt for the timing belt replacement you'll be doing before you actually start the engine, so it could be a 3/4"-drive version. Purists: difference is less than half a thousandth of an inch vs. 27mm.
-- Garth suggests removing the "cam covers", and I want to clarify for you that these are really the top "cam BELT covers". You'll get into the cam covers soon enough (metal covers with spark plug holes), but that's a separate adventure.
-- Marvel Mystery Oil or some ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is the weapon of choice for penetrating and perhaps freeing up rings that may be stuck a little in the piston grooves. The soda-straw idea is great, but you may want to form a bend near the end to direct the flow towards the top of piston, then let the fluid fall towards the bottom and soak everything. Put enough in there to do some good, like an ounce or two, and let it sit for a few days to do it's magic. After the few days, a good portion of the fluid will have washed through the rings and grooves. There will still be some in the cylinders, so tuck a paper towel in the wells in the cam cover to grab it while you rotate the crankshaft by hand.
-- The 928 block is alusil (aluminum with embedded silicon) around the bores, so there's no issue with the bores rusting during storage. The piston skirts are iron coated and can rust, but they won't stick in the bore. Your lubrication effort is to get the rings free, and offer a start-up film to the piston skirts.
-- Leave the plugs out until you've had a chance to crank the engine through a few revolutions by hand and then a few seconds on the starter. Remove the ignition fuse while you do all this, so there's no fuel pump running or injectors spraying. Leave it out until you've had a chance to drain and clean the tank, clean and test the pump(s), and replace the fuel filter. No need to pump stale fuel and crud through the system. The remaining ATF or MMO will eject from the plug holes and through the exhaust valves, so leave those paper towels stuffed into the plug wells or risk a mess.
-- As you turn the engine by hand the first time, watch the timing belt and the gear positions. At TDC on #1 cylinder (marked as 0 T on the balancer) make sure that the two cam drive gears have their timing notches lined up with the V indexing mark on the backing plate behind them. You can be off half a tooth with no worries. The cams turn at half of crankshaft speed, so if there are no marks visible when the crank pointer shows TDC, rotate the crank 360º (one full revolution) and look again. Know that you MUST NOT turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise due to the design of the belt tensioner. If the cam timing is off by more than a tooth or two, plan to re-index the belt and do a basic leakdown test for bent valves before you go much farther. Come back to the group here for more guidance if the cam timing is off.
--------
Housekeeping:
Welcome to the 928 group! The 928 forum is blessed with perhaps the most supportive and friendly group of owners/enthusiasts of any car site I've visited. The basic guidance is to read the "new visitors" sticky at the top of the first page of this forum. Start a new thread with some history on the car and yourself. No good introduction thread is complete without some pictures. Share your location, and others in your area will chime in to the welcome. Another set of educated/experienced eyes will help you avoid common and often expensive mistakes along the way. Many of us can be bribed with lunch and a cold beer to provide support help on tasks you'll tackle.
Step up to full membership in the group. It's less than $20/yr last time I looked, and represents the best investment you'll make in your car. New users will save back the membership cost with the first bit of good advice they receive here, and that interest compounds momentarily when you find yourself stuck on something. Membership thins the embedded ads, allows you to post want-to-buy and for-sale items you'll want along the way. Non-members and members get the same support from the group of course. Remember that we are all in the same boat that you are, we've just been rowing a little longer. Join and strengthen the group. Click the membership tab and follow the easy directions. Add a signature that includes your location and the year of your car, so you don't have to retype it in every post.
Again, welcome to the Rennlist 928 group!
-- It's perfectly acceptable to use a 1 1/16" 6pt deep impact socket for the crank nose. Consider too that you'll likely need the same socket to remove that crank nose bolt for the timing belt replacement you'll be doing before you actually start the engine, so it could be a 3/4"-drive version. Purists: difference is less than half a thousandth of an inch vs. 27mm.
-- Garth suggests removing the "cam covers", and I want to clarify for you that these are really the top "cam BELT covers". You'll get into the cam covers soon enough (metal covers with spark plug holes), but that's a separate adventure.
-- Marvel Mystery Oil or some ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is the weapon of choice for penetrating and perhaps freeing up rings that may be stuck a little in the piston grooves. The soda-straw idea is great, but you may want to form a bend near the end to direct the flow towards the top of piston, then let the fluid fall towards the bottom and soak everything. Put enough in there to do some good, like an ounce or two, and let it sit for a few days to do it's magic. After the few days, a good portion of the fluid will have washed through the rings and grooves. There will still be some in the cylinders, so tuck a paper towel in the wells in the cam cover to grab it while you rotate the crankshaft by hand.
-- The 928 block is alusil (aluminum with embedded silicon) around the bores, so there's no issue with the bores rusting during storage. The piston skirts are iron coated and can rust, but they won't stick in the bore. Your lubrication effort is to get the rings free, and offer a start-up film to the piston skirts.
-- Leave the plugs out until you've had a chance to crank the engine through a few revolutions by hand and then a few seconds on the starter. Remove the ignition fuse while you do all this, so there's no fuel pump running or injectors spraying. Leave it out until you've had a chance to drain and clean the tank, clean and test the pump(s), and replace the fuel filter. No need to pump stale fuel and crud through the system. The remaining ATF or MMO will eject from the plug holes and through the exhaust valves, so leave those paper towels stuffed into the plug wells or risk a mess.
-- As you turn the engine by hand the first time, watch the timing belt and the gear positions. At TDC on #1 cylinder (marked as 0 T on the balancer) make sure that the two cam drive gears have their timing notches lined up with the V indexing mark on the backing plate behind them. You can be off half a tooth with no worries. The cams turn at half of crankshaft speed, so if there are no marks visible when the crank pointer shows TDC, rotate the crank 360º (one full revolution) and look again. Know that you MUST NOT turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise due to the design of the belt tensioner. If the cam timing is off by more than a tooth or two, plan to re-index the belt and do a basic leakdown test for bent valves before you go much farther. Come back to the group here for more guidance if the cam timing is off.
--------
Housekeeping:
Welcome to the 928 group! The 928 forum is blessed with perhaps the most supportive and friendly group of owners/enthusiasts of any car site I've visited. The basic guidance is to read the "new visitors" sticky at the top of the first page of this forum. Start a new thread with some history on the car and yourself. No good introduction thread is complete without some pictures. Share your location, and others in your area will chime in to the welcome. Another set of educated/experienced eyes will help you avoid common and often expensive mistakes along the way. Many of us can be bribed with lunch and a cold beer to provide support help on tasks you'll tackle.
Step up to full membership in the group. It's less than $20/yr last time I looked, and represents the best investment you'll make in your car. New users will save back the membership cost with the first bit of good advice they receive here, and that interest compounds momentarily when you find yourself stuck on something. Membership thins the embedded ads, allows you to post want-to-buy and for-sale items you'll want along the way. Non-members and members get the same support from the group of course. Remember that we are all in the same boat that you are, we've just been rowing a little longer. Join and strengthen the group. Click the membership tab and follow the easy directions. Add a signature that includes your location and the year of your car, so you don't have to retype it in every post.
Again, welcome to the Rennlist 928 group!
Good morning Bob!
Wow what a great reply, thank you very much!
I should give some background. I am the second owner of this car, I bought it with 50 or 60K miles on it back in 1996. It belonged to a huge cellphone corporation, their Executive accountant embezzled the funds to buy this red w/ cashmere car and a black one for his wife; I bought it from a dealer that won it at auction. It’s always been serviced by the dealership or a local shop owned by a Porsche certified technician, not by me. It has 18” GTS Turbo chrome wheels, painted tail, teardrop mirrors, Euro clear lense front turn signals, and K&N of course, Devek sway bar. In 2007 I had the belt service, complete, and rebuilt the bottom end at the Porsche dealer, $8,000. Drove the car IDK maybe 5000K miles maybe 10K, I’d have to check the records, it has 144K today.
In 2007 I bought a new Dodge Viper convertible, so the 928S4 was just a weekend toy, if that, and I planned to sell it. I put some WD40 in one or two vacuum lines, per the instructions of some people here, it was supposed to clean something. The car bellowed black smoke so I drove it to the dealership. The next day they called with a laundry list of things to do but they didn’t know why it was running rich. I had the car towed home; the tow truck driver drove it in to the garage. I fiddled with the vacuum lines to clean them then took the car out, this time it was literally limping along and I barely made it back home. Pulled the plugs, they were soaked with gasoline. Fresh oil and plugs, new fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator, has the brain checked out, new MAF; after all of that no start. Pulled a plug and confirmed spark. A 928 expert confirmed the fuel pump was running and working just by listening to it; that was probably false, I will know soon. That’s pretty much where it ended because the car couldn’t get gas to the injectors, I had so many other things to do so...
Today the fuel injectors are out at Injector Rx being serviced. The gasoline is out of the car; I had put a bottle of Techron in the car just before all of this so the fuel came out a light golden color, smelled just like normal gasoline and had that same liquid viscosity. I strained the fuel through a strainer, a mess of plastic like spiral shavings were present in the first two gallon draining of the tank. I suspect those may be from the fuel pump, perhaps the nylon impeller. I’ve got a new pump and filter but two detail oriented people here want me to pull the top off of the tank; I may, but I have a singular priority at this point, start the car! We had two houses until just recently and the car has been garaged at the second house, but we have now sold it and everything has to be out by the 19th, including this car. No, my wife won’t let me bring it home to this house with it not running.
So the car has new oil and spark plugs, I want to install the fresh injectors and the new fuel pump and filter and then slowly see if she will start. If she does then it’s off the the dealer on a flatbed for a belt service and top end redo. If she won’t then it’s a flatbed to a storage unit and I’ll have to decide at that time what I want to do.
It’s a beautiful car, that’s why I kept it for 22 years. I would like to get it running again, take it for a few last drives and then we’ll see...
Last edited by BYAIC; 03-04-2018 at 03:31 PM.
03-04-2018, 07:03 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
As we continue with the gratuitous advice & tips , that is a good point on eventually spinning the engine via the starter: there is a caveat to be aware of .... on a long dormant 928, it is highly likely that one or more of the hydraulic lifters have lost some oil and are nicely collapsed. Cranking on the starter reasonably well past the point where oil pressure indicates 5 bar - but short of overheating the starter, there is a good chance of pumping them up again. If they had collapsed, and fail to pump up, then on a normal start up, there 'may' be several sphincter puckering moments as the clashing of the valve gear occurs. It will subside without damage - but will grab the attention of all around.
If concerned re misting/fogging oil not wicking uphill to the high point ( of the rings), just add sufficient & follow with a blast of air ( hoping you have a compressor). Oil will definitely spread!
If concerned re misting/fogging oil not wicking uphill to the high point ( of the rings), just add sufficient & follow with a blast of air ( hoping you have a compressor). Oil will definitely spread!
03-04-2018, 07:53 PM
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As we continue with the gratuitous advice & tips , that is a good point on eventually spinning the engine via the starter: there is a caveat to be aware of .... on a long dormant 928, it is highly likely that one or more of the hydraulic lifters have lost some oil and are nicely collapsed. Cranking on the starter reasonably well past the point where oil pressure indicates 5 bar - but short of overheating the starter, there is a good chance of pumping them up again. If they had collapsed, and fail to pump up, then on a normal start up, there 'may' be several sphincter puckering moments as the clashing of the valve gear occurs. It will subside without damage - but will grab the attention of all around.
If concerned re misting/fogging oil not wicking uphill to the high point ( of the rings), just add sufficient & follow with a blast of air ( hoping you have a compressor). Oil will definitely spread!
If concerned re misting/fogging oil not wicking uphill to the high point ( of the rings), just add sufficient & follow with a blast of air ( hoping you have a compressor). Oil will definitely spread!
Thank you Garth!
I have read so many posts related to my car, I actually have a simple plan, please give me your opinion (others feel free to chime in too):
1. Crank the motor by over hand. I want to do this to be sure that it isn’t frozen
2. After everything is reassembled, pull the fuel pump fuse
3. Turn the motor using the starter for 4-5 seconds, walk away for 15 minutes to let the starter cool, maybe half an hour is better? I’ll take an Uber and bring two bottles of wine with me - I’m going to need them for step 6!
4. Repeat the last step 2 more times but gradually go to 5-10 seconds
5. Reinstall the FP fuse
6. Start the car!
I found a 27mm deep socket. I don’t own a 1/2” socket adapter but I do own a 20”-24” long 1/2” torque wrench (I have no idea why I bought it but I have it). Would that be too long to work in the space? Also, how much force should I expect to have to use? I tend not to force things (past experiences) but it probably takes 35-45lbs of force to turn this engine, is that about right?
Lastly, Bob says to turn it clockwise only. Just to confirm, its ‘clockwise’ while standing in the front of the car looking down at the engine, am I right?
Best,
Charles
03-04-2018, 09:38 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
Thank you Garth!
I have read so many posts related to my car, I actually have a simple plan, please give me your opinion (others feel free to chime in too):
1. Crank the motor by over hand. I want to do this to be sure that it isn’t frozen
2. After everything is reassembled, pull the fuel pump fuse
3. Turn the motor using the starter for 4-5 seconds, walk away for 15 minutes to let the starter cool, maybe half an hour is better? I’ll take an Uber and bring two bottles of wine with me - I’m going to need them for step 6!
4. Repeat the last step 2 more times but gradually go to 5-10 seconds
5. Reinstall the FP fuse
6. Start the car!
I found a 27mm deep socket. I don’t own a 1/2” socket adapter but I do own a 20”-24” long 1/2” torque wrench (I have no idea why I bought it but I have it). Would that be too long to work in the space? Also, how much force should I expect to have to use? I tend not to force things (past experiences) but it probably takes 35-45lbs of force to turn this engine, is that about right?
Lastly, Bob says to turn it clockwise only. Just to confirm, its ‘clockwise’ while standing in the front of the car looking down at the engine, am I right?
Best,
Charles
03-04-2018, 10:15 PM
#12
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Charles,
Pull the ignition EZK fuse before cranking. The EZK manages the crank position sensor from which all engine electric things function. With that fuse out, there's no ignition, no injection, no fuel pump run, no oxy sensor heater. Safe to crank on the starter then after initial hand spin.
Your description of prior-to-park events tells me you had a LH (fuel injection brain) failure. There's a known failure issue on those that's inevitable, and the symptoms/failure mode exactly matches what you describe. In many cases the injectors start clicking as soon as the key is in "run" even before cranking, flooding the cylinder with fuel and running extremely rich if it runs at all. There probably isn't any gas left in the oil after all this time, but a sniff test at the filler cap is still a good idea. Oil is cheap.
Meanwhile, remove the controller (passenger side footwell on the right, covered by a carpeted cover and a snap-strap). Two controllers there back to back on a bracket. Remove the two connectors, then the allen bolt, and the rack with both controllers slides out towards the rear of the car. Once on the bench, the controllers have small bolts holding them to the rack. Grab the one marked LH, and contact Roger at 928SRUS on the list here for shipping instructions. He'll check the controller, and offers rebuilts for a good price. Search some on LH brain failure here and you'll get more background. Roger is a good source of the service parts you'll need to bring it to life again, starting with a clean set of plugs and a couple oil filters. If your local guys is going to do all the bring-it-current and deferred stuff, Roger is a great source for those parts too.
Pull the ignition EZK fuse before cranking. The EZK manages the crank position sensor from which all engine electric things function. With that fuse out, there's no ignition, no injection, no fuel pump run, no oxy sensor heater. Safe to crank on the starter then after initial hand spin.
Your description of prior-to-park events tells me you had a LH (fuel injection brain) failure. There's a known failure issue on those that's inevitable, and the symptoms/failure mode exactly matches what you describe. In many cases the injectors start clicking as soon as the key is in "run" even before cranking, flooding the cylinder with fuel and running extremely rich if it runs at all. There probably isn't any gas left in the oil after all this time, but a sniff test at the filler cap is still a good idea. Oil is cheap.
Meanwhile, remove the controller (passenger side footwell on the right, covered by a carpeted cover and a snap-strap). Two controllers there back to back on a bracket. Remove the two connectors, then the allen bolt, and the rack with both controllers slides out towards the rear of the car. Once on the bench, the controllers have small bolts holding them to the rack. Grab the one marked LH, and contact Roger at 928SRUS on the list here for shipping instructions. He'll check the controller, and offers rebuilts for a good price. Search some on LH brain failure here and you'll get more background. Roger is a good source of the service parts you'll need to bring it to life again, starting with a clean set of plugs and a couple oil filters. If your local guys is going to do all the bring-it-current and deferred stuff, Roger is a great source for those parts too.
03-05-2018, 05:13 PM
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So today I’m pulling the plugs again to hand crank the engine and the spark plug thread are all oily. At first I thought it was the anti seize, but it’s too dark greasy and there is too much of it. The Fogging Oil really does work, it seems that it vaporizes and coats everything, even has a capillary effect on the spark plug threads! Amazing.