Wisconsin Joe

Seems like (in order):

GTS (93 - 95)

OB (78 & 79) Far more the 78 than the 79.

GT (89 - 91)

Maybe the 86.5. Depends on who you ask.

This is all based on low miles, original condition, good to excellent condition. So far, 'restored' cars don't seem to be worth a whole lot more. And we are a loooooooong way away from a pile of rust with a VIN plate and a title being worth anything.

Maybe the Euro S2 (84 - 86) and the Euro S (80 - 83). The problem with those is that the vast majority here in the US were brought in back in the 80s and early 90s via the 'federalization' route. So they were altered, sometimes significantly.

Landseer

Smooth shift, early, is generally a vac leak. Could be local or at hoses top of engine or both.

That it runs and shifts is a great positive!

I've gotten great enjoyment from the whole regimen of research, diagnose, improve and drive.

The availability and quality of documentation for these is top notch. Parts are still very readily available, though higher in price now than a few years ago. 84 electrical diagrams are funky but we've worked out the nuances. When i review a car I'm looking for absence of harness or wire burn. That is key. Here's how. Inspect big harness running along pass fender for any burn thru. Also crucial, inspect fuse box at passenger feet. Pull back carpet, flip up wood cover. Flashlight, get your head in there and look at all the wires as they exit distribution plugs along bottom row of fusebox... made easier if you also temporarily remove the lower wood panel with a bigger Phillip's head, two screws, easy. also check fuse holders at top of panel for burns, if found count positions from left to right and note which had burn marks.. If absent of any insulation burns or fuse burns you are way, way ahead. A series of things cause burns, mice, headliner lights shorting on body, over fusing....bam proliferation and hell. Examine box so you know. They nearly always burn thru too within a few inches from plugs leaving box if they short anywhere.

Don't vastly overpay going into this if there is pent up maint, but don't worry to much either. If straight body and no mice infestation you are way way ahead in refresh effort . The 16V engine is awesome. I love the 84 cars. The auto has great advantage that it it also suitable for stop go traffic. 5 speed is pita on a commute. Pics would help. Btw, replace fuel lines very early in your process.

Fantastic car, any year, if you are DIY guy it will be fun. There are a few hundred grey market 84s in USA also, noted by a twin distributor on top of drivers side of engine, if it by chance is one of those it's a big bonus. But the stock USA is fun too.

Randyb

Forgot to mention, the car won't go into overdrive.

76FJ55

The 928 is 1:1 in top gear. There is no overdrive, and that is both auto and manual. it is made up for with a high (numerically low) final drive ratio in the differential, typically 2.2:1.

James Bailey

More like the reality that often 928 Owners toward the end of their ownership or after one pain full experience at a repair shop start neglecting the car and not maintaining it. They no longer spend the $2,000 - 3,000 for several years until it gets sold as a " basket case " needing a basket full of money to simply catch up. Sure it makes a great hobby for a do it yourself guy it is just not an inexpensive one. There is something about the Pretty Woman syndrome.... wanting to save a car. Just be sure to start with Julia Roberts and NOT Julia Child.......

skpyle

Depends upon whether you want a hooker or a cooker...

Landseer

Now that's funny right there, I don't care who you are!

Randyb

Ok, so then it won't go into 4th.

Thanks!

docmirror

Everything devolves to "how much"?

If you want to keep it, make sure it hits all your buttons. WANT an auto? Like the color? etc. You may only spend $400 a year. You may spend $20,000 the first year, and nothing for 6-10 years.

Shawn Stanford

So, let me give you my opinion... I'm a self-proclaimed 'bottom feeder'. I have an inexpensive '82 runner (well, it was, but that's a different story) that I keep going myself. I think I pay $1,000 to $2,000 a year for parts and whatnot. My car runs well and is functional, but there's always something wearing out. It's a 35 year-old car. I like the way it looks and drives, and the interior is comfortable place to be for hours at a time, but it's sure not going to win any concours.

If you're thinking LS, then the condition of the motor doesn't matter. In my opinion, an LS swap is one of the best ideas ever for the early cars. There's nothing special about the early motors, and the electronics are 40 years old. You're right: the magic of the 928 is in the body and interior, which were decades ahead of their time. Renegade Hybrids makes a $1,500 conversion kit for the 928.

I don't know how the DB9 was, but the 928 is one of the finest GT cars ever made. Even today, they're a paragon of high-speed highway comfort; even the early cars.

checkmate1996

"he's just $15,000 away from a $10,000 car" --- I can tell inflation has arrived...when I joined the forum it was $10k from a $5k car!!

I recently has an 82 manual for a year and what I liked about those years are:
- Smooth engine performance
- Still plenty of torque for spirited driving
- Less worry about thrust bearing failure
- Less worry about TB failure
- IIRC the 82 ran on 87 gas too!

Landseer

It actually may have been starting in second due to limp Bowden cable. Its things like this that help us bottom feeders score these cars inexpensively.

charlie goodwin

My car sounds similar to yours with a few more issues and less mileage i would try to keep it relative cheap probably under 6k due to miles, condition, and private sale and as long as you've had at least a little experience with euro cars and more than a little money it can be a great car
If its the right price take it