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Would any of this apply to repairing the alternator bracket attachment points on the block?
I know the lower half is a different metal than the upper half and less finicky IIRC because of the much lower silicon content allowing a "cleaner" weld.
Yes.
I already had ER4043, but I wasn't aware of its compatibility with A390. After greater research, I understand that ER4043 has been successfully used with this alloy for a long time. I am going to play with all of the fillers recommended by Joe before committing to one.
You may also want to investigate 4943 filler rod. It is a fairly new, relatively unknown rod, with higher silicon content, suitable for welding many cast alloys.
You may also want to investigate 4943 filler rod. It is a fairly new, relatively unknown rod, with higher silicon content, suitable for welding many cast alloys.
I already had ER4043, but I wasn't aware of its compatibility with A390. After greater research, I understand that ER4043 has been successfully used with this alloy for a long time. I am going to play with all of the fillers recommended by Joe before committing to one.
The girdle is not alusil AFAIK not that it makes it that much easier weld. Welding aluminium alloys was pioneered by ze Germans around WW2 time clever chaps that they are.
Have you considered use of one of the modern type brazing rods like durafix - there are a number of them around on the market. May well be strong enough to hang an alternator off and skill levels to work such dramatically less than welding. Have not tried them personally but....?
It's a different alloy than A390, but I do suspect that it's still some variation of "Alusil" alloy.
Thank you for the find on the old topic. Strange that I didn't find it in my search query.
When I did some research into the composition it seemed that to meet the definition of alusil the alloy had to have a composition of some 17% of silica- seemingly that was the magic quantum needed to achieve the properties to define "alusil" for use as a bearing surface in the bores.
Aluminium alloys such as 6061 T6 [the "de-facto" standard these days used in most quality wheels] have much smaller amounts of silicon- somewhere around 5% or so I seem to remember but that does not qualify them as "alusil". The 4030 rod Herman used also has a 5% silicon content [not too surprisingly]. Welding the 6061 material reduces the strength of the metal in the weld area but with appropriate post weld heat treatment [solution annealing] it can be restored however I doubt such would be needed in this case for whatever little that is worth.
One of the snippets of info I came across when researching "alusil" was that the generic alloy was originally conceived in 1927 by a company with a German sounding name and first found its way into a Lancia but not too surprisingly it was Kolbenschmidt who developed it into the working material we know of as Alusil today thus I assume the name is under their patents and can only be used by them. Presumably it all came about so that
WW2 aero engines could be made from aluminum and the alusil was probably needed to avoid corrosion from sulphur compounds that could not be removed from the fuel refineries of the day produced- that or the engines would have had a very short life span which they probably did any way but for different reasons!
Hilton, cool stuff! Thank you. I had chased down the same info once upon a time but AFAIK that exact point of reference hadn't been shared here before. A pretty sharp old lurker sent me some awesome tech info for A390, but there are a few variations and I haven't completely figured out which set of casting info corresponds.. Wasn't sure about the girdle at all, but I haven't really snooped around for that data. Could be handy for someone that might find this thread later though.
Hilton, cool stuff! Thank you. I had chased down the same info once upon a time but AFAIK that exact point of reference hadn't been shared here before. A pretty sharp old lurker sent me some awesome tech info for A390, but there are a few variations and I haven't completely figured out which set of casting info corresponds.. Wasn't sure about the girdle at all, but I haven't really snooped around for that data. Could be handy for someone that might find this thread later though.
Austin, I've been burning metal for almost 60 years " certified!" I learned how to weld while in high school. FWIW, welding is about 20% metallurgy, 80% skill and practice! It's all about developing " YOU'RE TECHNIQUE" every welding machine is different, heat ranges, filler rod . Welding aluminum, is an art in itself. It takes practice, lots of practice, and patience!!!! You'll need the correct welding shade, it's blue not green for heli-arc. When I taught, it took my students a year to learn enough to pass a 4G cert. Another year to pass a 6 G cert, and another 18 months to pass a certified sanitation purged piping test. That's just to pass a test to be certified. Fabrication is a whole different world! We had students graduating, that didn't know JackSh!t about fabricating. Try to get a job if ya can't read a print, and know what your welding symbols are.
I've been Nuclear certified Containment for over 50 years. And I'm still learning. It never stops.
You've got desire, that's the real key to success! I wish you well my friend. If ya need advice or have a question don't hesitate to ask!
joe
Joe, that is very generous. I won't forget your offer for guidance. I have always thought of myself as a competent welder, but.. my range of welding abilities is pretty limited in actuality. All of my welding experience is confined to auto collision and similar such applications. Even so, I don't even have half the time behind the shade as you do. Steel and aluminum MIG, ERW, MIG brazing, and some TIG experience.. You're right. One never stops finding ways to improve on their skills until they quit applying themselves.
The project I had in mind is a back-burner op at the moment, though I feel better equipped for the challenge when it does come around. I won't shy away from it and I will absolutely practice, practice, and practice some more!
Well I have successfully welded these blocks but I wouldn’t regard myself as an expert so take this advice for what it is worth. I had a block that had the regular air conditioning mounts knocked off it. I didn’t do the first repair but I wasn’t happy with the appearance and I am selling this motor and didn’t want an ugly repair on it. You could further refine this repair but I think for its purpose it’s good enough.
‘’This metal is very very dirty. It would be best to weld with an argon helium mix. You will need to burn off lots of oxides, it’s a horrible bubbly mess when you are welding it. Same goes for the lower casting. I repaired both upper and lower. I used 4047 for the top piece and 4043 from memory on the lower half.
You can see the air bubbles and a small missing piece Now welded up and more squared off like original The upper mount required a fair bit of metal and you can see that 4047 polished up pretty good. Pretty happy with the final appearance
08-03-2019, 09:12 AM
