how to test oil level sender
#1
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how to test oil level sender
I have bought an oil level sender via one of the reputable parts vendors because my old onde was R.I.P. Than I got a free spare engine with an oil level sender on it. Curious as always I tried to test both senders with my multimeter conductivity tester. My thought was that it is a simple magnetic operated on/off switch, so easy to test. But moving up and down the little floater doesn't change the conductivity between the housing and connector. Simply said, conductivity stays off limits so switch is "off", no matter where the floater is, high or low. Is there another way to test this?
#2
Vegas, Baby!
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Our cars have dip sticks to check the oil level in the pan. I have no idea what that part is for. We have a sender for the pressure gauge.
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#4
Vegas, Baby!
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It grounds thru the block, with one wire, probably for the idiot light. I never paid any attention to it.
#5
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i need to commend you on the photography. i'm not kidding. the lighting is right. scale is perfect. the color of the wood compliments the subject. i don't know if it was intentional, but you have skills.
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That is the switch for the oil level idiot light.
It's a ground circuit through the flange that bolts to the oil pan.
I've never thought about it much. But, here's my guess on how to test it.
Use your multimeter in resistance or continuity mode. Put one probe on the male connector and the other on the flange. Move the float all the way up and then all the way down. At one extreme you should get no continuity (infinite resistance) and at the other extreme you should get continuity (and ~0.x Ohms of resistance.)
It's a ground circuit through the flange that bolts to the oil pan.
I've never thought about it much. But, here's my guess on how to test it.
Use your multimeter in resistance or continuity mode. Put one probe on the male connector and the other on the flange. Move the float all the way up and then all the way down. At one extreme you should get no continuity (infinite resistance) and at the other extreme you should get continuity (and ~0.x Ohms of resistance.)
#7
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That is the switch for the oil level idiot light.
It's a ground circuit through the flange that bolts to the oil pan.
I've never thought about it much. But, here's my guess on how to test it.
Use your multimeter in resistance or continuity mode. Put one probe on the male connector and the other on the flange. Move the float all the way up and then all the way down. At one extreme you should get no continuity (infinite resistance) and at the other extreme you should get continuity (and ~0.x Ohms of resistance.)
It's a ground circuit through the flange that bolts to the oil pan.
I've never thought about it much. But, here's my guess on how to test it.
Use your multimeter in resistance or continuity mode. Put one probe on the male connector and the other on the flange. Move the float all the way up and then all the way down. At one extreme you should get no continuity (infinite resistance) and at the other extreme you should get continuity (and ~0.x Ohms of resistance.)
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#8
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BTW, the wood is a picknick table I have next to my garage where I do most of the repair jobs. It is nice to do jobs outside and it is a good background for picturing parts. Not too dark or too light.
This is one picture I like (of many trials) I made for the picture contest to win a set of new wheels:
Last edited by Ad0911; 09-04-2019 at 01:54 AM.
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#9
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Ok. I have a new one in a sealed Porsche bag. I will see if I can, today, test it and report back.
#10
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Looking at a pic on ebay its marked "6-24V 1.2W" so its meant to conduct somehow. Also has the 928 part no cast on it. Are you sure its not failing due to dirt or corrosion on potential contacts? I just called local VDO service, and they said because its an oem item they would have no data on it at all???? Now I have to find out if mine works! I wouldnt be too surprised to learn its a capacitance thing.
jp 83 Euro S AT57k
jp 83 Euro S AT57k
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I tested the new one I have waiting to go into a engine.
As switches go, this is a pretty dirty switch. It is best to test in resistance mode not continuity mode.
Negative probe through one of the bolt holes in the flange.
Positive probe on the terminal.
Float at the top of travel results in ~6 megaohms or no continuity. Thus circuit is open or very high resistance.
Float at the bottom of travel results in 5-20 Ohms thus completing the circuit and allowing 'lectrons to flow through the idiot light.
HTH.
As switches go, this is a pretty dirty switch. It is best to test in resistance mode not continuity mode.
Negative probe through one of the bolt holes in the flange.
Positive probe on the terminal.
Float at the top of travel results in ~6 megaohms or no continuity. Thus circuit is open or very high resistance.
Float at the bottom of travel results in 5-20 Ohms thus completing the circuit and allowing 'lectrons to flow through the idiot light.
HTH.
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BTW, I've never seen one of these fail...
... except via mechanical damage. The new one I have is to replace one I pulled out of an engine that was in three pieces, two of them floating around in the sump.
Don't ask me: no idea.
... except via mechanical damage. The new one I have is to replace one I pulled out of an engine that was in three pieces, two of them floating around in the sump.
Don't ask me: no idea.
#13
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Bonjour,
Today I tried to put the oil pan back. But I found the wire on the oil level sensor broken.
On this forum this failure mode looks to be common.
In this case, if the wire is broken, the sensor could not detect a low oil level... maybe this never work on my car since I have the car...
Have a great day,
Raphaël
Today I tried to put the oil pan back. But I found the wire on the oil level sensor broken.
On this forum this failure mode looks to be common.
In this case, if the wire is broken, the sensor could not detect a low oil level... maybe this never work on my car since I have the car...
Have a great day,
Raphaël