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how to test oil level sender

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Old 09-03-2019, 04:36 PM
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Ad0911
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Default how to test oil level sender

I have bought an oil level sender via one of the reputable parts vendors because my old onde was R.I.P. Than I got a free spare engine with an oil level sender on it. Curious as always I tried to test both senders with my multimeter conductivity tester. My thought was that it is a simple magnetic operated on/off switch, so easy to test. But moving up and down the little floater doesn't change the conductivity between the housing and connector. Simply said, conductivity stays off limits so switch is "off", no matter where the floater is, high or low. Is there another way to test this?


Old 09-03-2019, 05:09 PM
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polecat702
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Our cars have dip sticks to check the oil level in the pan. I have no idea what that part is for. We have a sender for the pressure gauge.
Old 09-03-2019, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by polecat702
Our cars have dip sticks to check the oil level in the pan. I have no idea what that part is for. We have a sender for the pressure gauge.
My car has the dipstick too, but this sender is in the pan, left front side.
Old 09-03-2019, 05:21 PM
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It grounds thru the block, with one wire, probably for the idiot light. I never paid any attention to it.
Old 09-03-2019, 07:21 PM
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i need to commend you on the photography. i'm not kidding. the lighting is right. scale is perfect. the color of the wood compliments the subject. i don't know if it was intentional, but you have skills.
Old 09-03-2019, 10:41 PM
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That is the switch for the oil level idiot light.

It's a ground circuit through the flange that bolts to the oil pan.

I've never thought about it much. But, here's my guess on how to test it.

Use your multimeter in resistance or continuity mode. Put one probe on the male connector and the other on the flange. Move the float all the way up and then all the way down. At one extreme you should get no continuity (infinite resistance) and at the other extreme you should get continuity (and ~0.x Ohms of resistance.)
Old 09-04-2019, 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by worf928
That is the switch for the oil level idiot light.

It's a ground circuit through the flange that bolts to the oil pan.

I've never thought about it much. But, here's my guess on how to test it.

Use your multimeter in resistance or continuity mode. Put one probe on the male connector and the other on the flange. Move the float all the way up and then all the way down. At one extreme you should get no continuity (infinite resistance) and at the other extreme you should get continuity (and ~0.x Ohms of resistance.)
This is exactly what I've done but due to my poor skills of writing in the e gludh language, this may not have been clear. Point is. I get infinite resistance no matter where the float is. Both senders the same. Pity because I paid good money for it.
Old 09-04-2019, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by mkhargrove
i need to commend you on the photography. i'm not kidding. the lighting is right. scale is perfect. the color of the wood compliments the subject. i don't know if it was intentional, but you have skills.
Well thank you, much appreciated. I actually hesitated to use this picture because the picture is slightly turned, my feet are in it and my wooden shoes (yes I live in the Netherlands). I actually gave up on photography due to the lack of talent. But I can still admire a good picture.

BTW, the wood is a picknick table I have next to my garage where I do most of the repair jobs. It is nice to do jobs outside and it is a good background for picturing parts. Not too dark or too light.

This is one picture I like (of many trials) I made for the picture contest to win a set of new wheels:


Last edited by Ad0911; 09-04-2019 at 01:54 AM.
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Old 09-04-2019, 10:08 AM
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worf928
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Originally Posted by Ad0911
This is exactly what I've done but due to my poor skills of writing in the e gludh language, this may not have been clear. Point is. I get infinite resistance no matter where the float is. Both senders the same. Pity because I paid good money for it.
Ok. I have a new one in a sealed Porsche bag. I will see if I can, today, test it and report back.
Old 09-04-2019, 10:34 PM
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Looking at a pic on ebay its marked "6-24V 1.2W" so its meant to conduct somehow. Also has the 928 part no cast on it. Are you sure its not failing due to dirt or corrosion on potential contacts? I just called local VDO service, and they said because its an oem item they would have no data on it at all???? Now I have to find out if mine works! I wouldnt be too surprised to learn its a capacitance thing.
jp 83 Euro S AT57k
Old 09-04-2019, 11:34 PM
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I tested the new one I have waiting to go into a engine.

As switches go, this is a pretty dirty switch. It is best to test in resistance mode not continuity mode.

Negative probe through one of the bolt holes in the flange.
Positive probe on the terminal.
Float at the top of travel results in ~6 megaohms or no continuity. Thus circuit is open or very high resistance.
Float at the bottom of travel results in 5-20 Ohms thus completing the circuit and allowing 'lectrons to flow through the idiot light.

HTH.
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Old 09-04-2019, 11:35 PM
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BTW, I've never seen one of these fail...

... except via mechanical damage. The new one I have is to replace one I pulled out of an engine that was in three pieces, two of them floating around in the sump.

Don't ask me: no idea.
Old 05-18-2023, 04:56 PM
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Bonjour,
Today I tried to put the oil pan back. But I found the wire on the oil level sensor broken.
On this forum this failure mode looks to be common.
In this case, if the wire is broken, the sensor could not detect a low oil level... maybe this never work on my car since I have the car...
Have a great day,
Raphaël



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