SeanR

Bingo.

Buy the Beru's and forget about them for 20 years.

Ramp

Thanks all. Price is only one factor I was inquiring about. The wires I posted have all Beru ends, come in red/blue/black, so nice to have an option, have labels and spacers pre installed, and come from one of our preferred vendors, so not sure there is a reason to object to these as an option.

ROG100

The Beru set for the 85/86 S3 32v cars is NLA. Beware that most will sell the 87 to 95 Beru set ZEF586 and say they fit the S3 cars. They do but read what Dave K said in post #11. They fit but not perfectly.
I sell the wires only for the 85/86 32v S3 in red and black. This is providing your original set is Beru and that the ends unscrew.
85/86 S3 32v Wires only with the correct Beru wire and threaded ends are $155,
A really good alternative for the S3 is the Karlyn Sti set which fits well but is not OEM - my price is $325.
I sell the 87 to 95 Beru set for $325.

I also stock the other wire sets including S2 16v Twin Dizzy original Beru $325. These are not available in the USA and I have them imported from Europe.
Standard Beru 16v sets I have for $185

Questions call me at 817 430 2688 or email at roger@928srus.com

Kiln_Red

Good to know..

Those will soon be on my list.

928NOOBIE

I got a set of Beru's from Roger several years ago and as he mentions the 86 set is NLA but mine were fine but did not use factory wire looms. I also used some extra thick vacuum hose where they came close to engine/car and helped eliminate slight misfires at idle.

Tails

Interesting discussion.

I have recently completed an induction manifold overhaul, idle stop valve O/H (internal clean) , electrical earth clean, replacement of knock sensors, replacement to TII sensor and checking of the temperature sensor, injector completely overhauled, injector spray test and fuel quantity matching, replaced numerous relays in the central electrical panel, removed an alarm system the gave me 3 isolated circuits in trying to trace a bad idle condition with "cut out" on power. I also checked out the spark plug leads and plugs. I tested the resistance of all leads, plugs and renewed the spark plugs with continuous system testing for faults via my DT999 diagnostic programme. Checked all vacuum piping to verify the correct connection and operation. In trying to locate why the engine was not idling and would run and cut out when running. I even installed replacement computers and still had the fault and car not drivable.

Back to spark plugs leads: diss-assembled all plugs and leads etc., cleaned and checked the resistances/continunity from distributors through to spark plugs, even spark initiation circuit and new spark plugs. All were within specification as indicated in WSM. Still would not operate satisfactorily (#$*&%)!!!!????. We had the best 928 private owners involved with their brain power. I'm now an expert (self acclaimed) in removal and replacement of S4 induction manifold and all associated equipment. On reassembling spark plug wires checked routing etc., to insure all to specified routing. The spark plug wires are also encased in an after market plastic flexible covering decreasing the probability of "arcing". Problem still existed. Later solved the PROBLEM, but it was not electrical nor high or low tension electrical circuits.

The previous paragraph reinforces that "If it ain't at fault, don't fix it". My high tension spark plug wires with associated plugs and distributers etc., are working fine and they are nearly 30 years old. I put this down to regular inspection and servicing. Prior to fault the fuel consumption was within specification dependent on the the frequency of "pedal to the metal" Now "P to M" will produce rear tyre "chirping".

By this time if you have read this far there maybe some interest in what was actually wrong. The fault was the non control of the idle speed by the idle stop valve and the induction of uncontrolled excess air when driving. It appears that the hose connection to the oil filler piece had blown off the idle stop connection and lodged out of sight under the cooling water/thermostat bridge. As a professional engineer of many years standing "I work to memory and engineering deduction" as I work out the design and control of the system I'm working on, however in this instance no rubber hose was seen and I assumed that the hose connection at the idle stop valve was blanked off. Incorrect assumption and good lesson - always used the PET drawings for all assembly and if need be take photographs. "Hard to teach an old dog new tricks".

I hope the above is useful and my 1990 928 S4 becomes an "Historic Vehicle" as of January 2020 along with my 944/952 Turbo which were both built in February 1990.

Mongo

Roger, do you still sell the leads only for '87-'95 cars? I bought a 'red' set from you a long time ago, back in 2004 I believe. It's 15 years later now. The wires still look good, but is it time to replace? No sparks in pitch black with the engine running, so I assume they are good, but now I'm on a time vs mileage basis for a car that gets driven 25-30 miles a month at most.

Hey_Allen

Is this a standard for testing for insulation breakdown?
I'd heard of misting water over the running engine in the dark, but if it's likely to show up without the water, so much the better.

Crumpler

****. Is that a Thing?
Mine has occasional misfire at idle. My Beru set is probably touching the engine in several spots where stock bracket holders have cracked. No sparks to my knowledge.

Mongo

My 944 didn't need misted water on it when I noticed it needed wires. I assumed the 928 is no different when insulation becomes biodegradable.