Here's a typical 928 meets HPDE roster
10-05-2019, 09:53 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Here's a typical 928 meets HPDE roster
So this is what the field looks like now at a typical DE event, at least in my area.
I don't know who is in my group yet, it's based on experience, but quite a spread of brands and models.
The other 928 is a pretty nice LS conversion track car.
https://www.motorsportreg.com/index....742B7C1F7D689D
SInce my last event I went a little nuts:
New/rebuilt upper A-arms
Bilstein shocks
Eibach springs
Pulled interior except for dash and pod
Racing seats
A/C delete
Sunroof delete and respray roof.
S4 spoiler
Max performance summer tires
Track brake pads.
Balanced and set up the suspension for track (the rear wheels were actually in positive camber somehow)
New weight is 3036 lbs. I really wanted to get into the 2000's so I was bummed about that.
I feel like the car is as good as I can make it for DE, the rest is probably up to me. :0
I don't know who is in my group yet, it's based on experience, but quite a spread of brands and models.
The other 928 is a pretty nice LS conversion track car.
https://www.motorsportreg.com/index....742B7C1F7D689D
SInce my last event I went a little nuts:
New/rebuilt upper A-arms
Bilstein shocks
Eibach springs
Pulled interior except for dash and pod
Racing seats
A/C delete
Sunroof delete and respray roof.
S4 spoiler
Max performance summer tires
Track brake pads.
Balanced and set up the suspension for track (the rear wheels were actually in positive camber somehow)
New weight is 3036 lbs. I really wanted to get into the 2000's so I was bummed about that.
I feel like the car is as good as I can make it for DE, the rest is probably up to me. :0
10-06-2019, 06:41 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Hmm. Too bad I can't pop down there. I also noticed that Geoff Isringhausen is taking part. I think he's the son of the owner of Isringhausen in Springfield.
10-06-2019, 08:41 PM
#5
Drifting
Get yourself an extra set of wheels and tires to use on the track.
This way you can get track-specific tires versus burning up a set of street tires which also don't work too well on the track.
When done, put the street wheels/tires back on.
This way you can get track-specific tires versus burning up a set of street tires which also don't work too well on the track.
When done, put the street wheels/tires back on.
10-08-2019, 10:17 AM
#6
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
The tire choice last time was Continental Extreme Contact. I don't have a lot to compare them to since it was my first session, but they seemed reasonable.
The issue was wear, I had thread creeping by the second day so I wanted to drive something else this time.
This go-round I got Pirelli P zero nero GT's. They scored well on tire rack, but maybe someone here can give me more feedback.
I was shooting for the summer max performance category, that didn't break the bank.
I also wanted something I could drive to the track on, at this point, and then maybe graduate into real track tires as I go.
I didn't see anything in print, but I don't think PCA likes the beginners on true racing tires anyway. I will have to ask around.
The winter tire question, I really can't expand on. I've heard of using them (drag racing?) but never actually seen it. The concept being softer = grip, I think.
I don't know if that holds up at higher temps, but maybe somebody can educate us on that as well. I'd be curious to hear more.
Jdgunn, stop by if you are there.
The issue was wear, I had thread creeping by the second day so I wanted to drive something else this time.
This go-round I got Pirelli P zero nero GT's. They scored well on tire rack, but maybe someone here can give me more feedback.
I was shooting for the summer max performance category, that didn't break the bank.
I also wanted something I could drive to the track on, at this point, and then maybe graduate into real track tires as I go.
I didn't see anything in print, but I don't think PCA likes the beginners on true racing tires anyway. I will have to ask around.
The winter tire question, I really can't expand on. I've heard of using them (drag racing?) but never actually seen it. The concept being softer = grip, I think.
I don't know if that holds up at higher temps, but maybe somebody can educate us on that as well. I'd be curious to hear more.
Jdgunn, stop by if you are there.
10-08-2019, 11:18 AM
#7
Supercharged
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Sounds like you are sinking into the abyss that is HPDEs! 
Point 1: Winter tires are no good for a HPDE. They might give you better traction when cold, but after they get some heat in them... bu-bye. DON't DO IT! Don't even think about it. If I was your instructor, I would probably not get in the car with you.
Point 2: Listen to Swaybar. Get a dedicated set of wheels for your HPDEs - Turbo Twists are usually pretty cheap. I highly recommend the Nitto NT-01 or the Toyo R888 (basically the same tire - same parent company). They aren't quite as sticky as a slick, but pretty close (treadwear 100 I think). THey last and last and are way better than any street tire. Watch tire pressures and keep under 35. I shoot for 32-34 hot. Then if you go full nuts, buy some scrubs for about $100/tire and see your times fall by about 2 seconds a lap.
Point 3: You say you added "Track brake pads" . I personally run the DTC-70's . Great pad, but like elbows and a$$holes, everyone has an opinion about which one works better. You have to try them out and see which one you like best. However, I would recommend you stick with solid brake rotors. Less prone to cracking. Also, make sure you have brake ducts to direct air to the rotor. Your brake pads will last twice as long. Seriously.
Point 4: You are putting a lot of stress on your engine now. Make sure you are using a good oil. I will only use AMSOIL now in the track car. Mobil 1 doesn't cut it for a 30+ year old engine design. It's fine for the street, but not so much for the track. THere are other quality oils out there, but the Amsoil just seems to be better. Yes it's expensive, but cheaper than a new engine.
Point 1: Winter tires are no good for a HPDE. They might give you better traction when cold, but after they get some heat in them... bu-bye. DON't DO IT! Don't even think about it. If I was your instructor, I would probably not get in the car with you.
Point 2: Listen to Swaybar. Get a dedicated set of wheels for your HPDEs - Turbo Twists are usually pretty cheap. I highly recommend the Nitto NT-01 or the Toyo R888 (basically the same tire - same parent company). They aren't quite as sticky as a slick, but pretty close (treadwear 100 I think). THey last and last and are way better than any street tire. Watch tire pressures and keep under 35. I shoot for 32-34 hot. Then if you go full nuts, buy some scrubs for about $100/tire and see your times fall by about 2 seconds a lap.
Point 3: You say you added "Track brake pads" . I personally run the DTC-70's . Great pad, but like elbows and a$$holes, everyone has an opinion about which one works better. You have to try them out and see which one you like best. However, I would recommend you stick with solid brake rotors. Less prone to cracking. Also, make sure you have brake ducts to direct air to the rotor. Your brake pads will last twice as long. Seriously.
Point 4: You are putting a lot of stress on your engine now. Make sure you are using a good oil. I will only use AMSOIL now in the track car. Mobil 1 doesn't cut it for a 30+ year old engine design. It's fine for the street, but not so much for the track. THere are other quality oils out there, but the Amsoil just seems to be better. Yes it's expensive, but cheaper than a new engine.