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Hi all, I am finally getting back to this car after too long of a break and thought I would post some of the progress pics and ask a couple of questions along the way. Here is my parts/tool list so far, am I missing anything?
TIMING BELT 83-95 (PORSCHE)
UPPER RADIATOR HOSE 85-95
LOWER RADIATOR HOSE 77 TO 86 - PORSCHE
POWER STEERING BELT 85-95
AC BELT - 80 TO 89 - 13 X 1125
Power steering pump rebuild kit
Porsche Power Steering Hose - Pump to Reservoir
Porsche O-Ring for Engine Oil Pump (98 X 3 mm) - Victor Reinz 40-76378-00
Front Main Crank Seal
Crankshaft Seal (Oil Pump) (20 X 30 X 7 mm) - Victor Reinz 81-15292-30
Porsche Cover, Timing Belt, Center Front
FLYWHEEL LOCK TOOL 83-95
OIL PUMP GEAR 83 TO 95 - STEEL
KEMPH TOOL
WATER PUMP 78-86 - LASO NEW - W/GASKET/BOLTS - PLASTIC IMPELLER
Kroon Engine Wiring Harness
Alternator cooling hose
KIT PORKENTENSIONER BRACKET (WITH AIR PUMP) FULL KIT
TWO COOLER UNIVERSAL ALUMINUM RADIATOR CSF
I'm replacing the radiator because of this corrosion. Not sure how much longer it would have lasted without a leak.
The A/C condenser seems to have some oxidation/corrosion on it, how should I clean it and is it ok to paint without interfering with the airflow?
The nasty oil cooler hoses that were behind the alternator. I've got lots of cleaning to do.
Just nasty under there.
Looks like the lower powered alternator. I have a sound system with 4 amps and I'm thinking I should upgrade.
Just The Cooling System: Replace the other coolant hoses, not just the radiator hoses. Heater control valve new plus the stub connector. Coolant reservoir cap, Thermostats and both seals too, plus the coolant galley plug seals..
It always helps if you post you model/year. From the shopping list it is obviously a pre-S4 model.
Given the crud in the alternator area it would seem logical you have had a power steering fluid leak in your recent history. I do not see a high pressure PS hose replacement in your shopping list- that is a classic car killer if and when it fails and the ATF catches fire. Plenty of cleaning and de-greasing in your immediate future. The PS return hose should also be replaced as it will be mush by now I suspect.
I do not see a high pressure PS hose replacement in your shopping list- that is a classic car killer if and when it fails and the ATF catches fire. Plenty of cleaning and de-greasing in your immediate future. The PS return hose should also be replaced as it will be mush by now I suspect.
^^^ - This, and the fuel lines are equally critical for the longevity of these cars! Since you are doing the water pump, it's logical to do the PS hoses first. I would also change the harmonic damper and some of the idlers while you are in there, but...
I personally wouldn't invest too much in any 928 until the following critical maintenance tasks (car killers as Fred points out) have been performed:
1.) Timing belt
2.) Fuel lines
3.) PS hoses
4.) Check for TBF
Good luck! The caked oil and cleaning are rather par for the course. BTDT. :-) It's amazing how many things can leak on these cars! But once you do all the gaskets, etc. They do become leak free again.
I would replace the entire PS reservoir, inexpensive and I believe there is a gasket in there that eventually leaks. Also if your oil pan is leaking unfortunately that will all get dirty again. I cleaned the hell out of what I could reach underneath during my TB/WP job and within a few thousand miles it looked the same. I have a new silicone gasket to install when I tear the motor out.
Check the condition of your cam gears. Look for wear down to the shiny metal. Post photos. If wear is bad enough the bare metal of the teeth with eventually eat at the belt. Roger has new gears. You'll need to buy a timing tool set though or at least borrow one to set the timing.
Check the play on the belt driven fan also. If it spins freely without the belt you'll need to add more fluid in the clutch. It shouldn't spin at all if you try to.
If your oil pressure sensor doesn't work it's probably cause the connections are gummed up by debris. Clean it and check if it works. I wouldn't consider replacing it unless it's completely shot after cleaning it off. Check the boots on the lower ball joints while you have the wheels off. Boots are torn, replace them with new Uro and at least 2 new eccentrics.
Check crank end play and relieve flex plate pressure. Install a PKlamp and loctite method to help mitigate creep then go for a Super Clamp in the future.
Info: you won't need to buy a Kempf Tool if you are planning on installing a PorKensioner.
Originally Posted by Jmcmahon66
Camshaft seals and o rings should also be replaced. Rears as well.
Originally Posted by Avar928
I would replace the entire PS reservoir, inexpensive and I believe there is a gasket in there that eventually leaks...
...Check the condition of your cam gears. Look for wear down to the shiny metal. Post photos. If wear is bad enough the bare metal of the teeth with eventually eat at the belt. Roger has new gears. You'll need to buy a timing tool set though or at least borrow one to set the timing...
First off, what year? What motor?
It matters.
From your list, it's a 'pre-S4'. But is it a 16v (pre-84 US) or 32v (85/86 US)?
No Kemph tool needed if you put the PKT on.
Cam seals are very easy to replace if you already have the timing belt off.
However, beware the "WYAIT" rabbit hole. You can get lost in there.
Cam gears can be a tough call. If the coating is worn, they can be recoated. If it's worn through and the metal shows much wear, they need to be replaced.
P/S reservoir is a fairly cheap replacement. There's a filter that isn't replaceable (not a seal).
Last, but not least - If you have the aluminum oil pump gear, it has a washer/spacer behind it. When you switch to the steel gear, that spacer is not needed (Ha!! - Beat Stan to it).
Thanks for all the great tips. I have a 86.5 with the 32 valve engine. Last September, I did the intake refresh just after I brought the car from California, and replaced anything rubber on top of the engine. I already have a new PS reservoir and will order the new pressure hose as well. I should get to the cam gear covers today, its just that I haven't had much exercise since covid hit and everything hurts from the other day.
I used to have a bookmark to Scott Yoo's page and when it stopped working, I thought it was gone forever. I was using Dwayne's as a guide. So far I've added 16 new parts to the list.
I got this far today. Some corrosion on the water pump and tensioner idler... The passenger side cam sprocket looks worse than the driver side, but I'll be changing them both.
Good progress. If you haven’t already, spray the water pump bolts with PB Blaster to hopefully avoid a bolt snapping. Is the oil return line on the oil pan covered, or just covered in gunk?
I don't think the 86.5 has an oil return line and just has a blank plate there. It sure is covered in lots of gunk. I'm going to start cleaning once I have the harmonic balancer off.
07-31-2020, 11:49 PM
Timing Belt/water pump replacement
