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Hello, I just bought this Euro 86 4,7 Auto. The car is very original and clean, still got all the original stickers, almost complete tool box, original spare tire and compressor. It runs great. Few electrical issues to clear of
f. Love it.
86 Euro has the S4 upgrades, early body style, and 16v engine. Manual or AT is a personal preference item. For me absolute top would be 86 Euro, manual, no sunroof, in one of the color combos I like.
Nice car I had 5 84/85 Euros they are like an early GT 928
more raw in a driving experience
Only major issues were the head gaskets needed to be replaced on the 16v engines
and for MMs and fresh shocks I suggest Bilstiens
from your pictures check the rear bumper cans it looks like the bumper has been pushed in
Note you could fit USA bumper shocks to give better low impact protection used ones will work look for them to measure 70 mm in uncompressed inners mounting face dimension
Oh also swap in a new dizzy belt and surface the mounting faces of the cam pulleys with 400 grit this to remove the work polishing so the pulley will not start moving use new bolts and washers and a drop of blue loctite on the bolt threads
Good luck with it
"Oh also swap in a new dizzy belt and surface the mounting faces of the cam pulleys with 400 grit this to remove the work polishing so the pulley will not start moving use new bolts and washers and a drop of blue loctite on the bolt threads"
Excuse my ignorance. I just completed an intake refresh and replaced my twin dizzy belt. Are you talking about 400 grit on the dizzy pulleys or the main cam gears. I also have my cam gears off right now doing a TB replacement. I assume main cam gears...how do they move with a woodruff key? Sorry I am a little slow on the uptake.
the clamped surfaces of the cam pulley will get work polished if they move back and forth on the cam snout,
once this happens then a higher clamping force is needed to prevent them from moving.
NOTE the movement i am describing is very small but once it starts then the gear will eventually be split in half by the wood ruff key.
As an option you could put a smear of Loctite 660 on the cam snout prior to fitting the pulley then install the pulley use a new washer and bolt and a drop of blue on the bolt threads.
NOTE you will have to heat the pulley to remove it,
so write that on the gear so the next guy doesnt try to pry off the gear as it could break off the cam snout.
Nothing to surface in the Dizzy just a simple belt swap
Sorry just a little more on using 660. When you need to heat the cam gear to get it off is there chance of warping or damaging it since its aluminium. I am replacing my cam cover O rings and thought if they didn't work initially I would hate to be heating my brand new cam gears. And with that I know there shouldn't be any need however is there any merit in using drei bond on the cam cover mating surfaces. Finally whats the best practice for inserting the cam seals with the covers off or once fitted. Just thinking after the cover is on I would be able to see the dizzy gear re-location when reinstalled.
Hi Greg you only need to heat the gears to 250f
Note they get to about 230 when running your not going to warp the gears
put the puller on the gear and heat it use minimal pressure to remove the gear
Dreibond will act as a grease on these parts that’s the last thing to use same for antiseize
muse STP on the seal to metal the outer edges of the radial seals stays dry use DC111 on the O rings
08-30-2020, 11:25 AM
I did it again Euro 86
