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When I put in the Delco, I had to shave part of the case to get enough room toward the power steering pump for it to tension against the belt. It seemed fine, but the other day the belt started squealing and the alternator light came on. I thought about it for a while and decided that it would be easier to get a larger alternator pulley than it would be to swap in a shorter belt.
I did some preliminary research which lead me to a company called Quick Start Automotive Electric. Nosing around there, I found out that there were several common 6-groove pulley diameters for CS130 alternators. I probably had the 56mm version, and there was a 62mm OD pulley. To confirm my estimates, I dropped the alternator. Of course it took longer to walk back and forth to the tool box to get the right socket than it did to actually remove the alternator (13mm, dammit!). Then I removed the pulley and, with my new HF digital caliper, determined that my pulley does have a 56mm OD. I also confirmed the other measurements, and ordered the 62mm version. It should be here in two days, and the 62mm OD should solve my tensioning problem.
I also bolted my set of staggered 951 wheels to the car, and they fit great with no rubbing or spacers at either end.
I replaced the window switches with new aftermarket switches. They click nicely and the windows now go up and down as they should. I still intend to get in there and clean and lubricate the window mechanism.
The new alternator pulley should be here tomorrow.
I got the new pulley and it was a larger diameter, as I wanted. But when I went to put it in I noticed two things:
The belt was still kind of loose at full extension.
It was the wrong pulley.
Yeah, all this time I'd been dealing with a 6 groove pulley, but it turns out that the pulley on the engine and the belt were both 5 groove! I'm not sure where the discrepancy crept in; I thought the pulley was swapped from the dead alternator to the new alternator. So, either I had the wrong pulley the entire time or the alternator shop replaced the pulley and gave me the wrong one.
In either case, I have a shiny billet aluminum pulley that I can't use. I bit the bullet and ordered both the correct 5-groove pulley and a shorter belt.
The belt and pulley arrived over the weekend and tonight I had a little time to get Reuben into the garage. I dropped the fan and loosened the PS pump (what a pain in the a$$) and pulled off those belts and the alternator belt. I put on the new belt and offered up the alternator. The new belt wasn't much smaller than the old belt, but it made a huge difference! The bolt on the tension bracket was near the bottom, and there was plenty of room up against the PS pump. I was able to get it gutenteit.
I hooked the wiring back up (I even disconnected the battery after the first set of sparks!), tightened the alternator, restrung and tightened the PS pump (pain in the a$$), and remounted the fan. The car fired up, the alternator light is out, and everything is humming along nicely under the hood.
Reuben is a good car, but I'm not sure what's going to happen with him; I really don't need two 928s. I may get his paint fixed, take care of the bitch list, and put him on the market. With a little love, he's probably a $12k to $15k car.
I'm really looking forward to getting Stitch back on the road. Stitch is my car in a way that Reuben is not.
Last edited by Shawn Stanford; 03-30-2021 at 10:46 PM.
Very cool.
What kind of shape is the interior in? Hard to see from the trailer pic
The dedication to the 928 in the group here is astounding. You guys are rock stars.
Cheers
What kind of shape is the interior in? Hard to see from the trailer pic
Except for a crack in the pod and the dash pulling back from the vents, the interior is in really nice shape. I really need get it washed and post some pics.
Nice car. What size is the correct pulley? At some time I’m going to need to do this swap in my euro 83. Thanks
The original pulley in the '84 was 56mm OD. I tried a 62mm OD pulley, but it wasn't enough. I ended up going back to a 56mm OD pulley. The crank pulley is for a 5-groove, 18mm belt.
I also went from a 35-3/4" (908mm) belt to a 34-3/4" (883mm) belt (Gates K050340 Micro-V Serpentine Drive Belt). That inch in the belt made all the difference.
Last edited by Shawn Stanford; 03-31-2021 at 11:44 PM.
i bought a HUCO last year and i agree with mrmerlin - the voltage sometimes goes up very close to the red area and then it bounces around a lot between 12 and 14 volts - never seems steady - but at the time it was the only one i could find - i googled the paris rhone yh2700 regulator and nothing showed up as to where they are available - i can see a cross reference to porsche 92860320700 - same thing? - i believe my regulator is original but i'm not sure it's a PR - for some reason the name marchal or something like that comes to mind
Okay, so I have video of two things I'm seeing with the car that I'd like some input on. Thanks in advance.
First is the rattle. Notice that it stays at a constant 'rate' even when the engine RPMs increase. The sound seems to be coming from the bottom rear of the engine. This is the sound the P.O. thought was the torque tube bearings.
And then an alarm chime that won't stop. This just started. You can hear it go from 'door open' to something else. I initially thought it was a faulty seat belt alarm, but I'm not sure of that.
i had a sound like that when the car had an auto transmission - turned out to be the torque converter - i know that's in the rear but at the time i couldn't pin down the noise's location - loose tin? - as for the chime..key in ignition ..lights on...turn signal left on which turns on parking marker i think
I exchanged emails with the P.O. and he explained that at one point he got a stethoscope onto the torque tube and confirmed the noise was coming from the forward part of the tube. He also checked the flex plate and confirmed that it was good at that time. I considered driving on it for a while, because from I've heard failing TT bearings are more annoying than damaging, and they can be driven on until they get loud enough to be unbearable to the driver. Mine are only making noise at low RPM, so it seems like I have a bunch of miles available.
But, I might as well go after them soon, probably starting next week.
I've read a bunch of threads about it, and as far as I can tell there are three methods to get torque tube clear of the bell housing:
Drop the rear suspension, then the torque-tube and transmission as a unit.
Cut a notch into the bell housing and drop just the torque tube.
Loosen the transmission mounts and slide the transmission back and drop just the torque tube.
I'm going to start with #3 and work my way back up the list until I get the TT free. The less I have to take apart, the better; especially when it comes to something as heavy as the transmission.
I had an issue years ago where the chime kept going whenever the car was on. Discovered that the light between the sun visors had shorted out against the frame, leading to a permanent "door ajar" status even with all the doors firmly closed. Replaced the light and the chime went away.
03-16-2021, 02:05 PM
