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Did an ignition and spark plug test, made a test set up where I could watch all 8 spark plugs while wife was cranking the engine. Healthy sparks on all 8. So that should eliminate the EZF and everything in the ignition system... But why there is no sign of life with starter gas is a mystery... I'm planning to do a similar set up for testing the injectors tomorrow...
GT6ier, the timing doesn't change all of a sudden... The timing is set in the EZF in a 3D ignition map. The two rotors and distributors don't just jump out of line... The engine ran for about 45 seconds after all the modifications were done, and then just died. So why it won't start with what to me looks like healthy sparks and with starter gas, is a mystery...
We all agree that it should start, but it isn't. Shooting ideas down without checking really isn't going to work all that well. The "distributors" aka the ends of the cams on your and my car can jump if the timing belt were to skip a tooth. It's a fairly easy thing to verify and say it definitely is right instead of saying it should be right. You said you started this work because you wanted to get 100% out of the car. Part of getting 100% is degreeing in the cams. It's pretty easy with Porken's timing tools. I believe you can check and see if you were a tooth off without Ken's tools, but I'm not 100% sure on that. Just my two cents worth. Good luck and be patient with it. The 928 can be a very frustrating animal.
Originally Posted by Fly911
GT6ier, the timing doesn't change all of a sudden... The timing is set in the EZF in a 3D ignition map. The two rotors and distributors don't just jump out of line... The engine ran for about 45 seconds after all the modifications were done, and then just died. So why it won't start with what to me looks like healthy sparks and with starter gas, is a mystery...
GT6ier, the timing doesn't change all of a sudden... The timing is set in the EZF in a 3D ignition map. The two rotors and distributors don't just jump out of line... The engine ran for about 45 seconds after all the modifications were done, and then just died. So why it won't start with what to me looks like healthy sparks and with starter gas, is a mystery...
And after your engine stopped running you checked all lot of other things that you "knew" hadn't changed. All I and others are suggesting is that you verify the timing. It's a simple check.
(a PITA job on the 85-86 where you have to remove the two intake manifolds)
Not related to your no-start, but if you've still got the tool kit in the back wall of your hatch there's a long-handle spark plug tool in there that gets 'em out without needing to remove your plenums. You can see little indents in the magnesium where the tool nestles in. It can still be a little tricky if your engine mounts are sagging, but still easier than the alternative.
If somehow you got a FPR instead of a damper at the front damper position (late model FPR and front dampers look the same), fuel will be blocked to injectors.
I did a test set up of all 8 injectors, with the fuel rails and powered from the LH control unit. Cranked up, and all (new 4-hole) 8 injectors sprayed a nice cone cloud of fuel.
So now that I have with 100% certainty spark and fuel to all 8 cylinders, the car should fire up...
Got everything back together, and after about 10 seconds of cranking, the engine fired up. Why it didn't before is a mystery. I didn't change any settings.
The engine still idles too high, at 1600rpm. Mystery that too, I have changed all gaskets and vacuum hoses in the whole intake system. TB is fully closed. ISV is new. It idled high before I started to do all the mods, that is actually why I started to change out things...
What other than vacuum leaks could cause such a high idle? The correct idle shout be 700 to 750... Is there a procedure to find out? Like spray starter gas around the intake, and see if it's sucked in somewhere, causing the engine to rev higher?
06-03-2021, 11:28 PM
