Oil leak identification (please)
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Oil leak identification (please)
I seem to have a leak at the back of the block, right hand side (as you sit in it) above the line of the sump.
It looks like there might be a bolt missing. I don't *think* the oil is coming from higher up but I can't be 100%.
Any thoughts?
It looks like there might be a bolt missing. I don't *think* the oil is coming from higher up but I can't be 100%.
Any thoughts?
#2
Have look up at your cam cover seals. Also the cam cap end seals are also prone to leaking. You may have leaks from more than one location.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Having said that, I'm usually wrong about these things so I'll go and have another look.
#4
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Oil in the center V often ends up where you are finding it behind/below. You can sorta see from the sides/rear, much easier with the whole air cleaner housing removed. Funny how an oil filler neck leak makes a mess at the bellhousing, but it will. Take a look, or fish with a bit of paper towel on a parts grabber down next to the throttle body.
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thepurpleblob (06-16-2021)
#5
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The missing bolt is where the factory ground strap attaches to the block. The ground strap runs from there to the chassis, just outboard of the exhaust manifold. There's a threaded hole, in the chassis, surrounded by a brass insert. You need this ground strap.
It's an 8x1.25x30mm bolt. The ground strap is 928 612 011 00. I stock this, if you need one.
Doubtful that this is the source of your oil leak....most likely you need to look higher.
It's an 8x1.25x30mm bolt. The ground strap is 928 612 011 00. I stock this, if you need one.
Doubtful that this is the source of your oil leak....most likely you need to look higher.
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greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
The following 2 users liked this post by GregBBRD:
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thepurpleblob (06-16-2021)
#6
Rennlist Member
The missing bolt is where the factory ground strap attaches to the block. The ground strap runs from there to the chassis, just outboard of the exhaust manifold. There's a threaded hole, in the chassis, surrounded by a brass insert. You need this ground strap.
It's an 8x1.25x30mm bolt. The ground strap is 928 612 011 00. I stock this, if you need one.
Doubtful that this is the source of your oil leak....most likely you need to look higher.
It's an 8x1.25x30mm bolt. The ground strap is 928 612 011 00. I stock this, if you need one.
Doubtful that this is the source of your oil leak....most likely you need to look higher.
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
I'm certain I have a ground strap - even if it's not there. I remember taking it off to clean it.
Of course, now I'm paranoid
Of course, now I'm paranoid
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#8
Rennlist Member
Be assured that if you did something seemingly daft you are not alone- far from it!
A friend of mine who was the maintenance manager for a prestigious marque over here once told me his favourite "horror" stories including one about how his electrician was wiring for some Hi-Fi mods and in trying to make some support brackets managed to drill through the fuel tank by mistake!
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Now the question is "do you remember putting your trousers on this morning?"
Be assured that if you did something seemingly daft you are not alone- far from it!
A friend of mine who was the maintenance manager for a prestigious marque over here once told me his favourite "horror" stories including one about how his electrician was wiring for some Hi-Fi mods and in trying to make some support brackets managed to drill through the fuel tank by mistake!
Be assured that if you did something seemingly daft you are not alone- far from it!
A friend of mine who was the maintenance manager for a prestigious marque over here once told me his favourite "horror" stories including one about how his electrician was wiring for some Hi-Fi mods and in trying to make some support brackets managed to drill through the fuel tank by mistake!
Wherever it was it was near the front. I'll stick it back on the lift when I finish work and have a look. The thread looked clean (which is why I spotted it) so it looks to have been removed in recent history.
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
I've checked - I have a ground strap (in good condition). It's migrated to a different bolt at some point but it's still a proper job.
There's clean oil in the V of the engine. I think I put it there myself in some over zealous filling after an oil change. I've cleaned it up as best I can and I'll see what happens. It's the only thing I can find.
There's clean oil in the V of the engine. I think I put it there myself in some over zealous filling after an oil change. I've cleaned it up as best I can and I'll see what happens. It's the only thing I can find.
#11
Rennlist Member
I don't know your year but it is most likely cam cover gaskets or the rear cam seals. The commonly leak on all years if they are over 10 years old.
Best thing to do would be to clean the oil off with a petroleum based solvent and look for where it originated from.
Best thing to do would be to clean the oil off with a petroleum based solvent and look for where it originated from.
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
It's a 1986 16V.
I've re-checked and the cam covers and rear cam seals are as dry as a bone. Definitely not that.
I've re-checked and the cam covers and rear cam seals are as dry as a bone. Definitely not that.
#13
Chronic Tool Dropper
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When cleaning in the V, avoid petro solvents and brake cleaner if you can, in favor of a detergent and water. The petro products and especially the low boilers like brake cleaner will take a toll on wiring and rubber stuff. Sop up as much of the oil as you can with paper towels and grabbers, follow with a good dishwashing detergent if you can. Avoid "purple" degreasers if you can since they are pretty caustic and will darken aluminum unless thoroughly rinsed pretty darn quickly. The 16V engines lack the rear "drain port" in the cross gusset, so it's tougher to get a good enough rinse with caustic products. It's always a balance between fastest/most convenient/easiest and how much casual collateral damage is done in the cleaning process.
I like to keep things clean enough to safely put my sandwich down; for the most part the engine is at bigger risk than the sandwich. I also seem to find more excuses to clean than to drive these days.
I like to keep things clean enough to safely put my sandwich down; for the most part the engine is at bigger risk than the sandwich. I also seem to find more excuses to clean than to drive these days.
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
All I've done is soak it up with paper towels. I'll leave it at that. It was given a good scrub when it was all in bits previously.
I don't do concourse - fluid tight will more than suffice.
I don't do concourse - fluid tight will more than suffice.
#15
Team Owner
I use rags to soak up the fluids then brake cleaner or acetone on a old t shirt, or sturdy paper towels to wipe out the V
never use water as it will get into the electrics, throttle shafts and regulators.
NOTE some peoples idea of washing is to flood the V,
this lets water get into lots of parts that have weep holes in them or bearings that will soon rust. or wire connectors
keep water away from the engine.
Also note that water can rinse down the top of the bell housing into your throwout bearing and clutch pack.
part life is drastically reduced once water is introduced.
NO water please.
NOTE if you must use water then its prudent to spray WD40 into the effected areas in the hope it will drive out standing water
OP Based on your oil report it could be coming from the block/girdle seam or the rear main seal or head gasket
never use water as it will get into the electrics, throttle shafts and regulators.
NOTE some peoples idea of washing is to flood the V,
this lets water get into lots of parts that have weep holes in them or bearings that will soon rust. or wire connectors
keep water away from the engine.
Also note that water can rinse down the top of the bell housing into your throwout bearing and clutch pack.
part life is drastically reduced once water is introduced.
NO water please.
NOTE if you must use water then its prudent to spray WD40 into the effected areas in the hope it will drive out standing water
OP Based on your oil report it could be coming from the block/girdle seam or the rear main seal or head gasket
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 06-20-2021 at 09:47 AM.