Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

85 Alternator not working until I give gas

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-20-2021, 06:00 PM
  #16  
Billu
Pro
 
Billu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: SW Minnesota
Posts: 532
Received 61 Likes on 47 Posts
Default

If you are running the car without the voltage light bulb in place, what you are seeing is normal.
As has been said, the one bulb that shouldn’t be replaced with led is the charge bulb.
The following users liked this post:
dukenukemx (06-21-2021)
Old 06-21-2021, 04:24 PM
  #17  
dr bob
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
dr bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Bend, Oregon
Posts: 20,506
Received 546 Likes on 409 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dr bob
A reminder that there's a separate resistor on the cluster backplane, in parallel with the bulb, that's needed to provide the proper initial excitation to get the alternator going from a start.

The typical culprits of your symptom are connections at the 14-pin under the hood, and connections or maybe wire damage at the alternator. It's pretty easy to see if the bulb is working -- on key on but prior to start, the lamp by the volt meter should be lit up. Since the bulb depends on a good current flow path to the alternator, it will be weak or won't come on if anything in that flow path is weak. So not seeing the light on is much more likely something else that isn't the bulb. Might be the card edge connector at the cluster, a connection at the CE panel, the 14 pin under the hood, or the wire or connection at the alternator. Some in-circuit testing with a DMM will quickly help you identify what's not working.

Of course, you'd know if you just replaced the cluster bulbs with LED's, and whether they might be a cause of your symptom. If you had good charging and suddenly didn't, it's unlikely that someone snuck LED's into your cluster. Of course, this is also a reminder to look at the last things you worked on. Anything related to or close to the cluster connections, the CE panel, the 14-pin and front-of-engine harness, or the alternator and local wiring would be a candidate. Ignition switch or local wiring worked on recently? You get the idea.
Originally Posted by dukenukemx
Currently the cluster is in pieces and hardly has any bulbs in it. I'm trying to repair the gauges and I just got the voltage gauge working and noticed it wasn't charging until I gave it gas. I'm currently installing LED's because I like LED's. I always find the old fashion incandescent bulbs to melt things over time. I'll finish today and see how the alternator acts.
The LED won't pass enough current to "light off" the alternator excitation. You might try adding another resistor in parallel with the 68-Ohm resistor that's already in parallel with the bulb, or substitute a smaller-value higher-wattage-rated resistor where the original sits. Be aware that there's some heat generated by that resistor in the period when key is "on" and engine is not running/generating. Considering the limited duty-cycle, and the polarity sensitivity of the LED, this might be a spot where a new incandescent bulb is the solution.

If you haven't already, do a search for Ed Scherer's PWM dash illumination controller for the LEDs. The original rheostat current controller won't work well with the LEDs. Just a heads-up!
Old 06-23-2021, 06:35 PM
  #18  
Alan
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
Alan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 13,371
Received 398 Likes on 272 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dukenukemx
Sounds like something I'll get to during the week because I plan to remove the intake system of this car and replace vacuum hoses and bad connections. Some of the connectors have crumbled apart and left nothing but wires. The car also runs very rich and stinks of gas when it runs. I wonder if that has to do with the aftermarket fuel injectors I installed?
Since you've been working on the pod the most likely location of the issue is with the bulb. If you have no bulb or just an LED there the alternator will not start-up correctly. I agree with Dr. Bob - leave an incandescent in place for this case. It will function fine without the need for an extra (hot) resistor, in fact the bulb will dissipate less power when on than the resistor you will need to replace it with (due to the bulbs very non-linear resistance Vs voltage curve).

Alan



Quick Reply: 85 Alternator not working until I give gas



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 08:34 PM.