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Trying to get this 89 S4 with Stage 1 928 Motorsports kit properly sorted...before I tune it correctly with bigger injectors n' all.
So many issues on this S4 from all paid shop labor. Flappy vacuum was mixed with the BOV so that neither worked. Rear upper control arms upside down. Cam gears are completely shiny (through the breather holes) and the tension warning system (stock tensioner until I pull the radiator and supercharger) is wired to ground, etc. etc.
Anyhu, the FMU was leaking air and obviously wasn't working when the PO's shop installed it. With no boost reference they just adjusted the base pressure to 80 psi! Amazingly, the LH compensated and it runs kind of normally. I was shocked today when I slapped a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.
You need to discard that car- it has no jump post cover !
Looks a bit like the motor that used to be featured on Carl's website if I recall correctly- what is your target for this car by the time you have finished "Porkenising" it- 500 bhp/torque?
The diaphragm looks as though it could be made from a sheet of appropriate rubber given your talents but I would have thought your first objective would be to dump that dinosaur era accessory albeit I believe they work surprisingly well. I see a new Porken supercharged chip [the Porkeniser] on the near horizon-
I see a vacuum line running to the brake booster connection. Can't miss that bright red hose... Is that a reference for fuel pressure? If so, that's a poor place to connect. I'm not familiar with this unit so have no insight beyond amateur visual cues.
You need to discard that car- it has no jump post cover !
Doesn't fit with the intake tube
Originally Posted by FredR
Looks a bit like the motor that used to be featured on Carl's website if I recall correctly- what is your target for this car by the time you have finished "Porkenising" it- 500 bhp/torque?
It makes a lot of power right now after some fixes but I am hoping for 400-ish Dynojets to start. I have already shamed some Teslas and a new 911.
Originally Posted by FredR
The diaphragm looks as though it could be made from a sheet of appropriate rubber given your talents but I would have thought your first objective would be to dump that dinosaur era accessory albeit I believe they work surprisingly well.
That is probably what I will do. It is just 1/32 rubber diaphragm stuff. It does not come in contact with gasoline.
I want to get the kit working as originally delivered before changing... mostly everything. Might go with a billet compressor wheel but I don't plan on moving to stage two anytime soon.
Originally Posted by FredR
I see a new Porken supercharged chip [the Porkeniser] on the near horizon-
All my hoes gotta make that money! Self learning Stage One EZK-S chip is already for sale (EZK-B). Made a nice difference right away and only rarely shows new knocks. (Much much safer than the stock EZK chip the kit uses. This chip should be standard issue!)
Nothing says pride in craftsmanship like zip ties as hose clamps.
The silicone hose has to go. It pops off easily.
Originally Posted by dr bob
I see a vacuum line running to the brake booster connection. Can't miss that bright red hose... Is that a reference for fuel pressure? If so, that's a poor place to connect.
I think so too. The FMU should be sharing off of the FPR and damper lines.
The Blow Off Valve was T-ed off the line to the flappy. (It must have looked like a manifold connection to the shop.) Further, the T was connected to the wrong port on the flappy solenoid so it never could purge vacuum. Both the flappy and BOV were always partially open and the stored vacuum was always leaking out. Dyno graph supplied by the shop clearly shows no second flappy peak.
All lot of the mistakes seem to me as if they were done because it would look nicer to plumb it that way.
Ken, search the Twin Screw thread. There are a couple posts about BEGI Diaphragm’s and I think they were sourced from Corky Bell at least that’s where I got mine
Ken, search the Twin Screw thread. There are a couple posts about BEGI Diaphragm’s and I think they were sourced from Corky Bell at least that’s where I got mine
That was the first thought I had too, but when I looked at the photos of the one Ken is working on, it is a different design from the one that was on Rocket. Corky Bell still may be able to help him with parts though.
Or better yet, slap in some larger injectors and properly tune the fuel map eliminating the BEGI all together.
That is the plan once I get it running properly and re-dyno'ed.
What is the current fashion in (low-boost) injector size?
Originally Posted by Darien
Ken, search the Twin Screw thread. There are a couple posts about BEGI Diaphragm’s and I think they were sourced from Corky Bell at least that’s where I got mine
Will read through that thread. 2005!!!
I am going to cut out a diaphragm from sturdier reinforced silicone sheet. Should be here tomorrow!
Good thing I ordered a 12" x 12" sheet because the fuel side gasket/diaphragm is bad too.
Bad thing: there is a bushing around the newer design piston which, of course, fell out as I held it over the side of the engine. It clanked and did not fall on the ground. If I can't find it with my usb camera later today I may follow the signs and get a Vortech.
Fortunately, it measures out to 5/16 ID x 7/16 OD x 1/2 tall, a common bronze bushing size.
Should be able to source it locally tomorrow and get it back together for the weekend... but it is forecast to close to 110F here so I can't drive it because the cooling fans are inadequate.
Ken,
Use the Siemens Deka IV 60# injectors. Do not get the offshore units!!! make sure they are genuine siemens!
They work perfectly down to 1.5mS and all their specs are readily available.
Ditch that BEGI and purchase a new factory fit FPR from Roger, he has aftermarket units that work awesome and are much cheaper. They just tune it for those injectors.
06-20-2021, 02:53 AM
BEGi FMU parts?
