Mongo

EDIT - Nothing amiss other than more dirt and grime to clean even after I cleaned (pic was before cleaning).

Mongo

Advice needed from those who have done this job -

Protection switch is on very tight so I used some PB blaster to see if will loosen up between the transmission case and brass hex.

I partially rounded off the bottom hex with a 36mm socket. Stopped right there to prevent messing up the other 5. The socket size fits a little loose on there, so I am guessing this is actually a 35mm? There's not a lot of hex to grab on the switch (looks like about 3/16") which probably why my socket keeps sliding off.

​​​​​​If it's not, how did y'all get this switch off without rounding it out?

Next is what ratchet are you using that is lower profile? My Craftsman 1/2 drive is narrow but could be narrower.

Thanks for reading.

Mrmerlin

use a vernier caliper to measure width between the flats it might be a 34 mm

Mongo

I got 36mm. Seems like there's just not enough area for the Craftsman socket to grab on to causing it to slide off.

May need to order a combination wrench to get it off. Man did Porsche use a breaker bar to torque these switches on? I had it soaking in PB all night and it's still not coming off.

Mongo

My 36mm fan clutch wrench fits it perfectly, but it's not a strong enough wrench to break it loose. Guess another soak in PB Blaster today to see if it frees it up more.

Mongo

Here is a pic of the rounded part of the switch at the bottom. This is the only area..

Soaked it in PB again too.



​

Mrmerlin

surface the front edge of the socket so the face/ flat sits flat on the trans

Zirconocene

What about using a 36 mm tie rod wrench? Those tend to be pretty thin and long, so you might get some better leverage.

ETA: Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/KUNTEC-Clut...%2C157&sr=8-42

Good luck, it's looking nice.

Cheers

Mongo

Not happy. 2 days of PB Blaster, and it is still not one bit loose.


​​​​​​It is now half way stripped! I have used a service wrench with another wrench as leverage, a fan clutch wrench, and a socket. Not sure where to go from here...

Zirconocene, my fan clutch wrench has a pretty long handle for leverage. Problem is the wrenches all keep sliding off the hex because the switch has such a short shoulder to grab onto.

Mongo

Looks a bit worse than the picture. The edges are rounded off now on the bottom and top.



​​​​​​

Gary Knox

Andy,

Are you trying to remove the switch because it is faulty, or because it leaks? IF it is because of a leak, I suggest you clean the area around it's mounting hole VERY thoroughly, then use that 'magic potion called DreiBond. Put some on your index finger tip and carefully put it all around the mounting hole where the switch screws into. This stuff really works to seal oil seepage. A tube isn't cheap at around $25, but you'll have a lot left over for future oil leak sealing. Be sure to put the cap back on the tube ASAP after putting the dollop on your finger tip. It can harden up pretty quickly if left open.

Gary

Kevin in Atlanta

From what I can see the pan is interfering with the socket's ability to fully seat.

You need to drop the pan.

Mongo

Hey Gary, the leak is actually coming through the switch at the electrical terminals. The oil ATF has crept it's way up the wiring harness.

Pretty sure it's dead now by poisoning from PB Blaster, and socket abuse.



Looks like the Mercedes 500E guys have the same issues. I see in their pictures use of a 36mm wrench. I'm going to buy a combo wrench and see if I can use the boxed end to grab whatever is left to break it loose.

500E board link:

https://www.500eboard.co/forums/thre...3/#post-220828

Mongo

Borrowed a grinder and machined the crown of the socket off. Now it should sit flush.

Gary Knox

Andy,

In this case, IF you can get a 6 point socket, I think that would fit the lands better on the nut and give a higher probability of being able to remove the switch than the 12 point socket you are showing in these pictures. Just a suggestion.

Gary