sprie

I am having trouble putting my half shaft back on.

I have taken both of these off as part of rebuilding the PSD mechanism and the boots looked tired so i thought i would replace them.

I therefore removed the half shafts (long saga getting bolts off, as per other posts), removed the boots, replaced the grease following Dwayne’s procedures, put them back together and am trying to put them back on the car.

I am part way through putting the left one back on, got to the point of tightening the bolts that attached the shaft to the diff. And i have noticed these are not turning smoothly - i can feel it stepping (as if rubbing over each ball bearing in turn, easy then stiffer, easy then stiffer).

So, my thoughts are:
a) maybe i have not put the CV joints back together correctly
b) i can't work out if i have got the shaft back far enough into the hub carrier. The outer skin of the CV is resting against the hub carrier - i can't work out if that is supposed to be inside the hub carrier, and if so, how to get it in there. You can see on the photo how far it currently is.
c) it's not the CV joint that has the issue, it could be my diff.

So, easy question to answer is question b) above - can anyone help?

C531XHO

Scrap my comment I thought it might have been back to front

sprie

..and i don't think it is diff. I took the shaft off, and turned the diff by hand and it seems smooth enough.

FredR

Ian,

I found installing the half shafts was straight forward so why you are having a problem I have no clue. I was extremely careful during disassembly and asssembly and was well pleased after a successful completion.

I did a thread on this- whether or not there may be any clues to help you within the thread I know not.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...e-boots-6.html

Geo55

I dont think there is a difference between which side goes where, but I always mark them and put them back the same way.

davek9

When doing two, I switch them to even out the wear

Dave K

Rob Edwards

Given that the ABS sensor ring teeth are well centered in the opening for the sensor, I'd bet the axle is properly in place in the hub. I think I'd unbolt the inboard axle at the output shafts and verify that the inner and outer CV joint halves are properly oriented, like so:

PCARUSA

When you remove the ‘Star’ fitting(s) on the end of the axle they have to be reinstalled in relation to each other. The spline has 28 teeth and the star fittings have 6 slots for the *****. You have to look very carefully to see which 2 spline teeth lines up with a pair of wide and narrow spaces on the star. There are only three possibilities of wide/narrow choices but only one right one. Use a magic marker and mark the correct pair on both stars. Then when you reinstall the ‘stars’ to the axle shaft make sure the marks are 180 degrees to each other. Think of the ‘Star of David’ diagram. One end will have the wide space up and the opposite end will have the narrow space up. You probably have it all greased up and assembled now so it’s going to be messy to check this out. I hope this helps!

Kevin in Atlanta

My experience is that if you have the beveled edge or hub facing the wrong way the CV joint will not articulate in any direction.

PCARUSA

Hi Rob,

The picture looks correct but I believe the big chamfer on the cage, the groove on the outer hub and the small ‘boss ring’ all point towards the center of the axle shaft. The ‘boss ring’ seats up against the flange of the axle.

Rob Edwards

I interpret the description in the WSM differently, bottom right of this page:

Rob Edwards

And note the orientation of the big bevel and groove on the outer joint body in the upper left, here. In any case, I think the most important part of the assembly is getting the wide/narrow ball groove spacing correct, and the final test described in step 7 - you should be able to smoothly move the ball hub axially in and out of the outer, across the full travel.