redantporsche

HELP! I'm trying to revive an '84 928s that hasn't been run for 20 years with 45,000 miles that was likely stored in a garage. I've changed the water pump, front engine seals, timing belt, plugs, wires, rotor, cap, green wire, fuel pump, fuel filter, battery, fuel injection relay, fuel pump relay, drained the gas, ran the fuel pump with 5 gallons of new gas and seafoam for five hours. I can get the car started, but only with my foot to the floor and it sounds like the engine is literally running on one cylinder at <100 rpm. I've checked for spark and that is fine - so I can only think that it is a fuel issue or maybe the injectors are clogged? There is good oil pressure and I can tell that there is gas in the fuel rail when i just slightly opened the fuel rail cap. As soon as I lift my foot off the gas, the engine dies and it eventually gets harder and harder to start.

I didn't change the filter in the tank yet, and when i put the key in the ignition i don't hear the fuel pump, but i have jumped the relay as well as run the pump powering it directly and the pump is moving gas.

I did have to remove the distributor when i changed the cam seal, but I also checked to make sure the rotor was pointing at 1 when the engine was TDC and the cams were lined up and that the distributor was lined up correctly when i reinstalled it so I think the timing is ok?

Any thoughts on what I can trouble shoot to get this car's engine firing?

Thank you in advance for your help!

gazfish

Sounds like you know what you’re doing but stopped short of refreshing enough components, fit a fuel pressure gauge and watch what’s happening at the rail during attempted starts and pull the injectors to bench test them or send away for testing/cleaning. Also use a timing light to set the distributor position to eliminate that.
Also suggest replacing all the fuel hoses in the engine bay while you’re there, more important than oil leaks.

Turbinesurgeon

I just got my 84 Euro going after 20 years of sitting. The fuel in the tank was nasty and it had to be cleaned out. The filter inside the tank was trashed. If you take the sender out you could take a look down in there. I flushed all fuel lines and replaced a few. The fuel tank was dropped and cleaned out. This was done with Krud Kutter and a pressure washer. I did an intake refresh and sent the injectors out for rebuild. When everything went back together it ran like a champ.

redantporsche

Ok. That was going to be my next plan of attack is to send off the injectors, drain the tank again and replace filter and then order some fuel lines from Roger at 928rus. I also jumpered the alarm because when I first hooked up battery alarm was going off. I wasn’t sure if that might have somehow did something.

If anyone has a good idea of what kind of fuel pressure tester to get, let me know please.

Turbinesurgeon

Make sure to flush out both pressure and return lines as well otherwise a lot of hard work was done in vain and your fresh injectors aren’t happy.
Roger at 928sRus also sells a new set of aftermarket injectors that are supposedly better than the originals. I don’t have any experience with those injectors and I’m just throwing that out there as an alternative.
I’m a big proponent of doing everything at once instead of piecemeal things over time.

gazfish

The company doesn’t seem to exist anymore where I got mine many years ago, you need one with a fitting Size 12mm X 1.5mm or adapter for same.

redantporsche

Thanks gazfish and turbinesurgeon. What's the technique for flushing out the pressure and return lines? disconnect them somewhere and run the fuel pump?

hwyengr

Sounds like you're on the right track, but just wanted to let you know that the fuel pump doesn't run on the ignition switch, in case that ever comes up during diagnosis. The pump relay gets a signal from the green wire that the distributor is turning, which closes the relay to energize the pump.

Zirconocene

To flush out the lines you need to jumper the DME relay socket; there's lots of good posts on how to do it and someone will jump in and tell you the correct pins (I think it's 30 and 87a, but don't take that as gospel). What is important is to make it a fused jumper, and it's nice to have a momentary switch built into the jumper so that you can control the power yourself. The one I built has really long leads so that I can stand and look at the engine bay while I activate the pump.

Good luck, it sounds like you're on the right track. But also, pictures please!

Cheers

Turbinesurgeon

You can disconnect the fuel lines both at the engine and tank. I used a cleaner like b-12 and pushed it through with a little compressed air. I did this all when the tank was out, Rubber hoses should be replaced as by now they are pretty old.

GregBBRD

Good advice!
I'm not a big fan of using gasoline as a flushing agent.
Raw fuel has a bad tendency to ignite, especially when vapors are concentrated in a garage.

Jason89s4

Cast my vote for injectors. Sits that long and they are surely in need of refresh

GregBBRD

These particular injectors are very prone to sticking closed from old fuel.
We actually have an injector "pulser" which we hook up and activate, while taping on the side of the injector. You could also do this with a 12 volt power source and ground...although I would apply the 12 volts intermittently.
Once you hear the injector "click", move on to the next.
This will generally free these injectors up enough for the car to run.
(Sometimes, no other work is required, after doing this.)

redantporsche

Just a quick update for everyone:

I took out the fuel rail and injectors and tested each injector using a 9 volt battery. More than 6 out of 8 of them wouldn't click at first, but after probably 20+ pulses with a 9 volt battery, the ones that didn't started to click loudly, so it appears most of the injectors were stuck.

I actually ordered some new injectors from Roger at 928rus that are the Bosch 4 hole injectors, as well as an injector kit (the hoses cracked in half that went to the fuel rail).

I need to replace the fuel lines and blow out the lines while I'm waiting for the injectors to show up. I called Precision but they wanted me to take some pics of the fuel lines to figure out what i need as supposedly it varies greatly even in the single year of 1984. I'm wondering if I should send off the original injectors to get them cleaned and tested, or does everyone think I should just install the new injectors?

Hopefully this solves my problem of the car seeming to not get any fuel. I'll keep everyone posted and thanks for the help!

I'll send some pics later.

The Forgotten On

You're going to need adapters to run the 4 hole injectors. They don't have the barbs on top for the injector hose, just a round seat for an oring to seat into a fuel rail.

Greg makes and sells those adapters IIRC.

I would send the original injectors out to be cleaned and refreshed seeing that all of them still function.