No Flywheel Lock - Alternative?
#1
No Flywheel Lock - Alternative?
Hi all,
In the process of changing the WP and realized I don't have a flywheel lock to undo the crankshaft bolt.
My first born suggests putting the car in gear and then trying.
Any reason not to do this?
I also read about feed rope in through a spark plug hole to create a stop.
Any advice?
Finally - in which direction does the bolt loosen when looking at engine from the front of the car.
Thanks,
Wavey
In the process of changing the WP and realized I don't have a flywheel lock to undo the crankshaft bolt.
My first born suggests putting the car in gear and then trying.
Any reason not to do this?
I also read about feed rope in through a spark plug hole to create a stop.
Any advice?
Finally - in which direction does the bolt loosen when looking at engine from the front of the car.
Thanks,
Wavey
Last edited by Wavey; 09-26-2023 at 11:53 AM.
#2
You need to buy the tool.
#3
Rennlist Member
+1. I'm sure there's a hack, but it's easier to just buy the lock. Not to mention, if you do get it off, it will later need to go back on and the torque is ~215 ftlbs.
If you do buy/use a lock, you'll need a little longer bolts to hold the lock in place; i.e., don't use the ones from the cover.
To remove, when facing the engine, counter-clockwise.
In case you didn't see it, Dwayne has an excellent writeup on TB/WP change: https://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/...0Procedure.htm
If you do buy/use a lock, you'll need a little longer bolts to hold the lock in place; i.e., don't use the ones from the cover.
To remove, when facing the engine, counter-clockwise.
In case you didn't see it, Dwayne has an excellent writeup on TB/WP change: https://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/...0Procedure.htm
The following 3 users liked this post by NoVector:
#4
Team Owner
dont put anything into the cylinder to HOLD the engine from turning.
That said the safest thing is to use the flywheel lock.
If you dont want to do that then you can use an impact gun it will easily remove the crank bolt.
NOTE the radiator must be removed so you have room to fit the gun.
NOTE then tightening the bolt will still require the flywheel lock.
NOTE the bolt turns CCW to loosen it while facing the engine.
That said the safest thing is to use the flywheel lock.
If you dont want to do that then you can use an impact gun it will easily remove the crank bolt.
NOTE the radiator must be removed so you have room to fit the gun.
NOTE then tightening the bolt will still require the flywheel lock.
NOTE the bolt turns CCW to loosen it while facing the engine.
#6
I have the tool now ordered but it is most like 2 weeks delivery.
I will still try to get the crank bolt removed so that I can keep progressing the WP.
I can get a solid piece of flat fully in between 2 teeth.
With 4' breaker bar the crank bolt is not budging and Im starting to worry that a single flywheel tooth cannot take this force.
Is that a valid concern?
I will still try to get the crank bolt removed so that I can keep progressing the WP.
I can get a solid piece of flat fully in between 2 teeth.
With 4' breaker bar the crank bolt is not budging and Im starting to worry that a single flywheel tooth cannot take this force.
Is that a valid concern?
#7
Rennlist Member
I have the tool now ordered but it is most like 2 weeks delivery.
I will still try to get the crank bolt removed so that I can keep progressing the WP.
I can get a solid piece of flat fully in between 2 teeth.
With 4' breaker bar the crank bolt is not budging and Im starting to worry that a single flywheel tooth cannot take this force.
Is that a valid concern?
I will still try to get the crank bolt removed so that I can keep progressing the WP.
I can get a solid piece of flat fully in between 2 teeth.
With 4' breaker bar the crank bolt is not budging and Im starting to worry that a single flywheel tooth cannot take this force.
Is that a valid concern?
That's why a designed tool exists.
Where are you that this takes 2 weeks?
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#10
Rennlist
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I have the tool now ordered but it is most like 2 weeks delivery.
I will still try to get the crank bolt removed so that I can keep progressing the WP.
I can get a solid piece of flat fully in between 2 teeth.
With 4' breaker bar the crank bolt is not budging and Im starting to worry that a single flywheel tooth cannot take this force.
Is that a valid concern?
I will still try to get the crank bolt removed so that I can keep progressing the WP.
I can get a solid piece of flat fully in between 2 teeth.
With 4' breaker bar the crank bolt is not budging and Im starting to worry that a single flywheel tooth cannot take this force.
Is that a valid concern?
And those crank bolts get tighter with age. The surface friction of the washer behind it goes up and frequently, the threads were not oiled when assembled.
It's not uncommon for it to take over 500ftlbs to break one loose.
We use 3/4" drive tools (less flex) with a 6' lever and sometimes struggle.
Work on something else, while you wait for the proper tool.
It's almost impossible that this is the only task that your car requires.....
__________________
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
The following 3 users liked this post by GregBBRD:
#11
Drifting
Did you also buy the timing-belt tensioning tool? You will need it too without a doubt.