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How to remove vacuum actuator lid?

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Old 10-14-2023, 02:33 PM
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StratfordShark
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Default How to remove vacuum actuator lid?

I'm replacing the comb flap diaphragm which has a leak.

Got console out and ready for surgery, but I can't get the comb actuator lid off. Am pushing a spring tab in with screwdriver and then pulling on lid on that side but don't seem to have enough hands! I'm sure I did this years ago with the footwell actuator lid rather than replace the whole thing, and I don't recall it being this difficult.

Any tips please for getting the lid past the tabs. Maybe jam something very thin through the lid slots while the tab is pushed inwards?

(before anyone points out that the problem is the orange vac line being disconnected I just pulled it out for final check with mityvac!)

Last edited by StratfordShark; 10-14-2023 at 02:34 PM.
Old 10-15-2023, 12:59 AM
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ZEUS+
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No specific tips, just prying and patience. This might be helpful : https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...placement.html

Last edited by ZEUS+; 10-15-2023 at 01:03 AM.
Old 10-15-2023, 03:29 AM
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Thanks Zeus+ I’ll have a fresh go at it today.
Old 10-15-2023, 05:58 AM
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I used a needle nose plier. Sort of push against the tab while lifting the cap in a gentle movement.

The bigger pita is getting the arm back on the flap afterwards.

This is very helpful - https://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/...0Procedure.htm
Old 10-15-2023, 01:33 PM
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It went vary quickly after leaving it overnight, which is often the way. Pushed tab in while levering up with short wide blade screwdriver to raise the cap slightly. Repeated on another tab and next thing you know the cap’s on the front seat and the spring has launched itself to follow!

Now to see about disconnecting and reattaching. Got glove box off to see what’s possible via the air inlet. If no dice then I’ll drill that hole but would rather not.



Last edited by StratfordShark; 10-15-2023 at 01:34 PM.
Old 10-15-2023, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by StratfordShark
Now to see about disconnecting and reattaching. Got glove box off to see what’s possible via the air inlet. If no dice then I’ll drill that hole but would rather not.
I hate to say it but if the heater box has never been out for a re-foaming of all the sealing surfaces on the flaps and doors, it's probably time to do it. I took the box out of my 89 and there was not a scrap of foam anywhere in the box. Every sealing surface leaked air. It also makes reconnecting that lever a snap There are some write ups to assist.
Old 10-15-2023, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jschiller
I hate to say it but if the heater box has never been out for a re-foaming of all the sealing surfaces on the flaps and doors, it's probably time to do it. I took the box out of my 89 and there was not a scrap of foam anywhere in the box. Every sealing surface leaked air. It also makes reconnecting that lever a snap There are some write ups to assist.
Thanks jschiller. I tried using an inspection camera this afternoon and it made it easy to see what was happening at the actuator clip as I rotated back and forth till it released. I think the camera will make it straightforward to reattach now that I’ve fitted a new diaphragm.

Take your point on resealing the heater box and it wouldn’t be much more work to get the rest of dash off now (just remove pod which I’ve done a few times). I’ll read up on some of the heater box reselling write-ups and think hard about doing that while I’m in there.

This is an image from the camera. Though I say it myself it’s one of the sharper images I’ve see from outside the heater box.


Last edited by StratfordShark; 10-16-2023 at 04:34 AM.
Old 10-15-2023, 08:24 PM
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If you might be removing it, here are some good threads to get started but there are many others:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...7-s4-auto.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...nd-reseal.html
Old 10-16-2023, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jschiller
If you might be removing it, here are some good threads to get started but there are many others:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...7-s4-auto.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...nd-reseal.html
Thanks jschiller these are a good read!

Is there any resealing possible with the heater box in place but rest of dash out? I don't have facilities to collect the refrigerant and would be wary of taking anywhere with the console out to have it evacuated.
Old 10-17-2023, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by StratfordShark
Thanks jschiller these are a good read!

Is there any resealing possible with the heater box in place but rest of dash out? I don't have facilities to collect the refrigerant and would be wary of taking anywhere with the console out to have it evacuated.
I did that with my 85. There is 1 plastic stud under the floor vent housing you will have to break and reattach to do the work with the housing left in the car. Everything else can slide out from the box otherwise.

It isn't ideal but it has worked perfectly since. Just make sure you get good quality foam. I used some from these guys: https://www.blenddoorusa.com/collect...x-5-16-2-piece
Old 10-18-2023, 03:36 AM
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What a great site Blend Door USA is! Amazing to have a place specialising in heater box refurbs.
Old 10-21-2023, 08:55 AM
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I've got the new comb flap diaphragm installed and the arm reattached (very fast and easy using inspection camera). I was just about to reattach the vacuum manifold cover and noticed that the foam on it is in excellent condition, so I'm wondering whether the foam in the heater box might not be in similar condition? I suppose it's a more extreme environment than just sitting in centre console though.





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