When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The engine hood switch on my car has seen better days. The boot was torn, and it was flopping around because it wasn't secured properly—this part is NLA from Porsche ( 928srus offers an alternative switch). However, I decided to dig in and see if there were some repairs or remedies that could be improvised.
Inspection of the switch revealed it was "press fit" using electrical tape.
Originally the switch was press-fit into the retaining bracket by plastic teeth visible in the picture of a new switch below. Most of these teeth have broken off from my switch due to years of heat cycling.
Thinking about what I might be able to use, I remembered I had some spare boots from the clutch master cylinder (CMC) rebuild kits. The boot is taller with more bellows and thicker rubber but it looks like they would work with some modifications. The part number on the boot is FTE H1956. I am not sure it is purchasable as a part, but I have a spare used one as would anyone who rebuilt a CMC.
Test fitting the boot worked out well. The top of the boot securely locks into the groove on the switch. The boot is a little too tall and needs the lower bellows cut off.
I cut the bottom like so...
I also removed the remaining plastic teeth.
For securing the switch into the retainer bracket I am using a panel grommet with the center cutout. This will be a friction fit.
And there you have it. As I type this, I realize I did not need to cut the bellows or use a separate grommet. I could have used the bellows as the panel grommet by inserting the part I cut off below the bracket. It would have been more fussy, but it would have worked just as well.
Last edited by Michael Benno; 10-31-2023 at 12:41 PM.
Chances are the body of the switch has gone brittle given the yellowing and it will shatter sooner or later as mine did. Roger offers an alternative switch that I intend to purchase a fit in the near future.
In the mean time no harm in running with what you have and personally I like to apply lateral thinking to nuisance items like these things rather than replace at $$$'s .
Great fix Michael..
Love these small restorations when you can make something work again as intended and also make it look factory. I always restore the parts if I can. Did something similar with my torn boot to the ridicolously expensive long parkingbrake-cable. Works perfectly...
Does pushing the switch (closing the hood) close a circuit or open it? Mine is gone but I noticed there are two fine wires in there. What does it do? Dan
Some background on the switch functionality. The functionality is detailed in the 1987 Service Information Teklink document. “Engine Hood Switch: The alarm switch for the burglaralarm is located on the right sideof the engine compartment. Thisswitch is now standard and alsoused as a safety switch for after-runningof the fans.It only has an influence in the ignition"OFF" or with the ignition keyremoved.If the radiator fans would run on,they would be stopped when raisingthe engine hood.” In later years, the Engine Hood Switch also controlled the engine compartment light
10-30-2023, 09:56 PM
Hood Switch boot repair and resecuring
