Originally Posted by Darklands

Walter Röhrls description of a really fast car is: „ You have Angst to use the key in the morning in the garage!“

Originally Posted by icsamerica

I just wanted to add that the roads where you live are going to be a major factor in what's right for you. For example here in my part of the North East where the roads are awful. The Koni's with modified spring as I detailed in an earlier post are very tollerable and offer up good capabilty and the necessary ground clearance. On California / Florida (my expereince) roads you should and could go much further becasue the roads are better, people drive much faster and you could use the extra capability and perhaps some additional lowering without beeing irritated by suspension harshness. I recently did a 1400+ mile trip from Vegas to Anaheim to LA then on to Sandiego. I was shocked how good the roads were. If traversed those roads I'd certainly choose a much more firm and capabily setup to daily. The banked sweepers and smooth roads of CA are nothing like what exists here in my part of the North East. In fairness to all those who make recommondations they are generally doing so with good intensions but only you could know what right for you where you are. It might take some travails to figue it out but that's part of the fun.

Originally Posted by PK68

This is a valid point. Here in southeastern Europe roads are generally in an atrocious condition with deep potholes and ridges. Much as I would like an up to date set up, I am not sure it would be advisable, esp so the lowered ride height. But I definitely wish for a freshened up suspension so as to make use of the development in tyre technology.
P.S. Are roads in the NE that bad? I first traveled to the US last spring and after driving for 1200 miles in California, I had to have my dentist check my fillings. I was pretty much shocked at the poor state of the highway network.

Originally Posted by Darklands

I would also choose 3a for my two cars if the regular maintenance is finished! But wider tires than GTS needs here in Germany an TÜV attorney and an individual
report with rim specifications sheets.
The technical car inspection here is like the California exhaust regulation. Restrictions are high and individual modifications are very expensive.
It‘s frustrating but on the other side the kids can‘t drive with every bad idea on the streets. For 18“ I must go to TÜV with the wheels and pay for the consulting because load index and so on must be proofed.
Nr. 4 and 5 sounds like I would have a SR71 in the hangar!

Walter Röhrls description of a really fast car is: „ You have Angst to use the key in the morning in the garage!“

Originally Posted by GregBBRD

Roger:

It's actually a bit more involved, for us, that just the two options, currently:

1. Stock suspension rebuild. This can vary from a simple shock change to a complete overhaul of all of the rubber parts, depending on client and budget (most 928's desperately need the rubber parts replaced.) Optimum ride height in the 160mm range....somewhat dependent on what shock absorber is chosen.
2. Fairly straight forward modifications, to improve the handling and improve the NVH. Allows the car to be lowered into the 150mm range. Reduced understeer because of modified pieces which allows the car to be properly lowered and still have front suspension travel without riding on the bump stops (This is what I'm proposing for the OP, in this thread.)
3a. Street/canyon racer suspension, with greatly improved NVH. Oversteer characteristics virtually gone. With sticky tires, the grip exceeds most people's desire to go at the speeds required to "make the car" get loose. Wider than stock tires and wheels allowed, although rear wheel/tire widths must be reasonably matched with the front. (Jeff Mohler will be getting this version.)
3b. Same as above, with custom adjustable shocks for both bump and rebound. The shocks have "altered" dimensions to allow lowering the car into the 140mm range. "Tune ability", for the individual driver's ability very high and can be changed, as driver ability increases.
4. Street/track car. Good NVH. Adjustable custom shocks for both bump and rebound. Spring rates increased. All of the suspension mounting and spring parts are changed.to custom pieces. Virtually unlimited suspension travel. Getting this level requires a Non Disclosure Agreement and the vehicle must be modified in our shop, as the pieces and technology is way beyond anything available, from anyone else. Designed for very aggressive and wide "low wear number" tires. Factory sport seats are a minimum requirement, along with 5 point seat belts. Roll bar highly encouraged and it can not be bolted to the weakest part of the car (the floor.) Minor front chassis stiffening required. Roll cage not required. 350+ horsepower very desirable. Highly functional, true 40%, limited slip required.
5. Dedicated track car/possible to drive to the track. Designed for a car with wide slicks. Significantly increased horsepower highly recommended. Shocks have remote canisters and are triple adjustable. All of the pieces used in Version 4, with significant spring rate changes. NDA required and vehicle must be modified in our shop. Roll cage and chassis stiffening highly desirable. A track test day, with the driver, will be required, to set-up shocks/alignment around the driver's ability. Professional, private test driver possible for hire, if desired. (He will explore the limits with the driver, but the set-up will revolve around the owner/driver.)

Originally Posted by GregBBRD

Throughout this thread, my points are very consistent::
People need to look at the "entire picture" before doing any modification. "My car looks absurd at stock ride height 170-180mm and I want it lowered", one needs to look at what Porsche designed, for the car to function at that ride height, before randomly lowering the car to 140mm.

Originally Posted by streetsnake

As this post has turned into a dumpster fire, I'm hoping to potentially salvage it for future "topic searchers". I have compiled a parts list. Having been the OP, I have no idea if this is overkill or if I'm missing anything that is vital. The experts that are posting here can weigh in on that. My project is a '79 so things may differ depending on your build year and even when it was produced during that same year (I'm thinking about stabilizer bar diameters and the lower control arm ball joint). I have utilized a number of different sources regarding part numbers, i.e., PET, vendors, online searches, etc., so do not take my information as the "end-all, be-all", do your own research as well. Also, the "jury" is still out on specific items; on what/which part(s) to utilize and what should be combined with what (shocks/spring combo). I welcome feedback and help on that.

Originally Posted by icsamerica

For those wth out Excel

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...f=true&sd=true

Originally Posted by Speedtoys

One was posted a bit ago, with prices and a link as well.