Just got a 928 , need advise.
#16
Burning Brakes
I have the S300 chips and X pipe. They certainly make a noticeable difference but it's not drastic . It's almost pointless to add 30HP when you're short 100HP and 4 gears compared to modern P-cars. Some of that 30 comes from the X pipe too! Are you willing to find and fit that?
You 928 is almost too nice of a car to futz with....BUT it is your car so carry on as you wish, we'll all help you out either way. Mine is a kind of a beater so I through everything I can at it just for fun. Snoop around the engine compartment for rubber that needs replacement, fuel lines, oil lines all need a good review.
Last edited by icsamerica; 11-29-2023 at 01:52 AM.
#17
R12 is now contraband, illegal to sell ?
Can't get it for love nor money in New Zealand
Just converting mine over to R134a
Pays to service the Drier/Receiver and Expansion valve every few years
So may as well replace all Orings at same time
Can't get it for love nor money in New Zealand
Just converting mine over to R134a
Pays to service the Drier/Receiver and Expansion valve every few years
So may as well replace all Orings at same time
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9two8 (02-16-2024)
#18
Rennlist Member
They'll probably do it to R134a too once the patent on R1234yf expires and it becomes affordable.
#19
Burning Brakes
https://www.epa.gov/mvac/refrigerant...mental-impacts
The Refrigerant we all should be paying attention to is R152a. It's also know as Air in a Can, dust off etc. This slightly flammable refrigerant has a bit less capacity than R134a but maintains more efficiency as condenser temps rise when compared to R134a. It's a good trade off for gas autos becasue capacity is not an issue when you have a large compressor being run by an engine. That looked promising in the market place. The exponential loss of effieniency at high temps is why R134a needs such a large condenser and has a tendency to work well at modest temp and not at all at high temps. R152a solves that and was designed for autos but was pushed aside by R1234yf because of flammability concerns even though they are low. Manufactures want to take no risks especially with electric autos. The prices of R1234yf may not come down, there is some molecular riddle that has to be overcome to produce it, this is structural so the cost will likely always be high.
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PC-85-928S (02-22-2024)
#20
Rennlist Member
Welcome to the 86.5 society. I think one of best additions has been the Hans shifter. The next thing was to re-valve the ABS brakes which changes the bias.
I use Penn 20/50 per Greg Brown. Consider GB fuel lines. Also I use Sta Lube in the gear box, (no grinding when cold)
You might want to replace the fuel pump, just so you know that it's fully up to date.
Have fun
I use Penn 20/50 per Greg Brown. Consider GB fuel lines. Also I use Sta Lube in the gear box, (no grinding when cold)
You might want to replace the fuel pump, just so you know that it's fully up to date.
Have fun
#21
Intermediate
Thread Starter
@vanster Please teach me more info on the re-valve the ABS brakes. What type STA lube you use in gear box ? Pennzoil 20/50 is better then Liqui Moly Molygen 5W-40 in the hot Nevada desert , Please advise.
#23
Intermediate
Thread Starter
@icsamerica Much thanks for your advise. I am still waiting for the car to show up . I intend to keep it as original as possible . If the drive is nice as a grand touring car with enough pull when needed , I will keep the original chip set up . As I do not plan to track or street race this.
I am more concert about the rubber parts in this and I do not want this to overheat or breakdown in the desert .
I also like to know if there are any known faults or commonly fail parts on this car so that I can address/ improve them ahead of time .
I am more concert about the rubber parts in this and I do not want this to overheat or breakdown in the desert .
I also like to know if there are any known faults or commonly fail parts on this car so that I can address/ improve them ahead of time .
#24
Burning Brakes
@icsamerica Much thanks for your advise. I am still waiting for the car to show up . I intend to keep it as original as possible . If the drive is nice as a grand touring car with enough pull when needed , I will keep the original chip set up . As I do not plan to track or street race this.
I am more concert about the rubber parts in this and I do not want this to overheat or breakdown in the desert .
I also like to know if there are any known faults or commonly fail parts on this car so that I can address/ improve them ahead of time .
I am more concert about the rubber parts in this and I do not want this to overheat or breakdown in the desert .
I also like to know if there are any known faults or commonly fail parts on this car so that I can address/ improve them ahead of time .
LOOKY HERE! Print this out, get it lamnated or keep 2 copies in a platc sleve afxed to the CE panel cover.
Took my frst trip out west ths year. Vegas to SoCal. As an East Coast City slicker it was revelatory.
Quick lst of thngs to change premtivly that wll keep you rollng.
Crank Positon sensor
Ignition Coils (x2)
Fuel pump, LH, EZK relays
Fan Clutch
Fuel pump and flters.
Belts
Timing belt and rollers.
Things you want to check carfully
Fuel lines, fuel dampers
Power steering lines
Electrcal connections wiring where it goes through the body near the jump post on the LH front sde.
Coolant hoses.
Brake Lines
Leaks
Water pump
Head lamp motor linkage (failure will cause the arm to puncture the radiator)
As a DIY'er there is a steep learning curve so you may get lots of value from having an experienced 928'er have a look too.
Keep in mnd, it's not a Chevy Tahoe so you cant pop-in in to Autozone to get a upper radator hose or a belt when out on the road. Everythng has to be done in advance and you wll be rewarded for doing so. 928's can be super reliable with the right manteance and a few upgrades specfic to your use case. I often drive my 928 2 to 3 hours each way to a track, push it around said track at my limit as a driver for 60 miles or so then drive home in the dark. Usually with a my son or a friend in the passenger seat. That's an unremarkable feat for a modern GT but a 36 y/o 928 can be just as reliable so long as it's looked after properly.
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GUMBALL (12-05-2023)
#25
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I agree with everyone regarding the R12, my 86.5 with 55k miles originally sold in Scottsdale has the "engine cooling for hot climate" and "increased air condit. output" options from the factory. I had the air conditioning serviced with R12 drove it 300 miles this past July from San Jose to Reno through the Sierra's with no air conditioning issues.
Beautiful 928 purchase!
Beautiful 928 purchase!
#27
Rennlist Member
You don't need to re-valve your ABS. I did it because I could basically. Since then I really like. A stock 928 has a brake bias of 85/15. 85% on the front brakes. There is a part that is available or was that will change this to 75/25 + - > I like it but also I raced sports cars for 25 years and I'm comfortable this way. ( I don't track my car)
#28
Rennlist Member
Keep the R12 at all cost. My AC compressor died last year in Indiana ( July). GB shipped a new one out to me to arrive in PA. I took my car to a shop in PA to do the repair. I gave them 4 cans of R12. along with a new compressor They promised to usemyn R12. When I got the car back they had switched to 134. At that point I just wanted to go home. It's marginal at best. I live in the Bay Area where it never gets very hot. I'm OK with it for now but if I lived in LV like you ... do not go to 134!
Back in the 80's German AC was marginal at best.
Back in the 80's German AC was marginal at best.
#29
Rennlist Member
Information sites
Congratulations on your purchase, Welcome to the Club
Here are a couple of sites that provide useful info:
Porsche 928 S4 GT GTS (livedsl.nl)
Porsche 928 Maintenance Tips and Procedures (nichols.nu)
Here are a couple of sites that provide useful info:
Porsche 928 S4 GT GTS (livedsl.nl)
Porsche 928 Maintenance Tips and Procedures (nichols.nu)
#30
Intermediate
Thread Starter