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Fighting a very stuck CPS on 85 US auto-
looking underneath I see one sensor, but I think it is the second sensor located behind the CPS.
Can anyone confirm?
If that is the case, it seems flywheel removal would be necessary to access CPS from below.
thanks -
Hi and yes you are correct.
The one that you are looking at was for a factory diag tool and not used, that sensor utilizes the two pins on the flywheel which can also be removed.
The best way is from the top and soaking the sensors shaft with penetrating oil, then getting it to rotate in place eventually pulling it straight up.
No good suggestions but I had the same issue on my 85 auto. Can’t pull the flywheel without pulling the TT and trans loose or pulling the motor. I wasted my CPS to a point up top that there was no way to get it out. I ended up pulling the motor. Easy to get to once the flywheel is out of the way. 😊
Got lucky with mine by following the wire wrapped around the sensor and a leverage point above, if you've gone past that point then others seem to have used a very small drill bit and worked around the edges of the metal core. Might be quicker than try to get access from underneath.
This issue is what led me to remove the engine almost 20 years ago. Even with the engine out it was a b1tch. It was falling apart when I was using vice grip like things and hitting it. Some folks claim they can get it out w/o removing the engine. You don't want to break the round housing it is sitting in.
I added several years to my life removing my stuck CPS.
In the end I had to take it out in pieces.
It was long, horrible and painful.
Pictures of my operating table below and the stubborn nasty CPS.
Is the brown curly wire the magnet on top?
What did you use to drill into it?
one hole?
Many holes?
please describe your technique-
this is what I am going to have to do
thanks
Last edited by PC-85-928S; 12-26-2023 at 11:51 PM.
The sensor has a hard iron core with a fine wire winding around it, so you have to drill around the edges. Before I did mine I was wondering if a hollow drill bit of the same diameter (something less than 15mm) might work, something like this https://accura.ie/collections/core-d...ik-2-x-6-8mm-1 but others will have real/better advise I'm sure.
Can you post a pic of what the top of the CPS looks like?
In my case I was able to get it to rotate pretty freely by using an extension through a 15mm wrench end, with the open end gripping the CPS body.
It still wouldn’t lift up and out no matter what, till I realised I could drive a pickle fork normally used to separate ball joints between top of the CPS and the bell housing. It came out with a few taps. I was fortunate that I had the (32V) intake off at the time to create plenty of room to position and strike the fork. But even if you had to take the intake off just for this it beats removing the engine altogether!
Our CPS job mirrored SLOWNRUSTY work. Look over 4 hours. We drilled out the center then pulled out the pieces. Probably one of the toughest 928 parts to replace. Hindsight we should have saturated the area with PB Blaster and left it soak overnight. Just maybe it would have been less painful. Thankfully no damage to the walls and one piece did drop into the TT housing but, was easily removed. It's just one of those jobs you'll think can be accomplished in a hour or two but takes you 1/2 a day. Good luck!
1/2 day is good going, was a solid 2 days at mine, piece by piece. After the top part break's off, if you can small screw etc into the plastic parts and get a slide hammer / leaver onto the screw it could help break the bond to the housing.
12-24-2023, 04:28 PM
Very stuck CPS
