Iamwilliam

Has anyone run this set up on a 928? I’m interested in trying it since it cleans up the engine bay and supposedly gives more track car feel. On the website if you select bmw/vw/porsche the kit says it will fit 928 and 944.

GerritD

This seems very interesting if it works as designed !
So this can replace the brakebooster and brake mastercilinder ?

hacker-pschorr

Wow, this is cool. I've been wanting to convert my 79 to non-powered brakes (already did a power steering delete).

I think I'll be doing this once my 79 wakes up from winter slumber (which may be this weekend already). You will need a separate reservoir for the clutch, which I think is a good thing.

Direct link to the Porsche unit:

https://www.chasebays.com/products/c...41700242718889


Probably go with their clutch reservoir too:

https://www.chasebays.com/collection...43220675461289

Iamwilliam

there is a fitting for the clutch line in the dual piston reservoir so you don’t need the separate one. I might order it and give it a shot.

hacker-pschorr

Ah, didn't realize that. I'll probably keep them separate anyway. I just filled out their app to become a dealer. I see more than a few products they offer we could use on some up and coming projects (not 928)

Mrmerlin

This looks like a nice option for someone that just lost their booster and needs a new MC in their 928 .
You could probably delete the early car bias valves too. that will make bleeding much easier.
What fluid do they suggest?
Can ATE be used so it conforms to the rest of the original brake system?

Please post your thoughts after you have one installed, Thanks.

PorKen

Could the stock ABS be used with this? (On my manual '88...)

Iamwilliam

I’m currently talking to a rep at Chase bays and trying to figure out how to plumb the brake lines since I have the diagonal circuits. Do you guys think it would be better to just ditch the proportioning valves and run front and rear circuits and just use the built in front rear bias adjustment?

hacker-pschorr

I don't see how using this over a stock unit would be of any benefit if keeping the booster since you have to re-plumb all the brake lines.

I don't use ATE fluid now in any of my cars. It's either Castrol, Wilwood, or Motul for me.

That's what I plan to do.

Iamwilliam

if you look at the picture of the booster delete unit it has an L shaped banjo fitting with 2 barbs. Wondering if you could add that to the bottom (rear) brake output and just run 4 short stainless braided lines. 2 to the front and 2 to the rear. Would make installation fairly simple.

Mrmerlin

My thought was that since their are no more new boosters available only rebuilt units, especially for the early cars
and a lot of the boosters have reached the end of service life to either be rebuilt or replaced.
along with the fact that a lot of the early cars also need new master cylinders, and those are also getting pretty rare
this might be a viable solution to replace both booster and MC .

The only other issue would be plumbing in the brake warning switches and possibly deleting the bias valves.
Yes short jumper hoses would probably be needed to tie in to the originals..

hacker-pschorr

That's a lot of screwing around when you can just have White Post Restoration or another such shop rebuild the original pieces.

Iamwilliam

thanks for bringing that up. I didn’t even think about the brake lights. How would that be done? Those brake pressure senders are quite hefty pieces.

hacker-pschorr

Adapt the brake pedal to the switch from the later cars:

belgiumbarry

1 inch bore MC looks big to me.... Ok, they change the pedal to 6:1 ratio. No idea if it's that better at all.