Turbinesurgeon

Fixing a few issues on the 84 Euro. I’ve got the dash and most of the HVAC stuff out. Any suggestions on things I should look at while I’m in here? This is one of those jobs that I don’t want to go back into. thanks for the replies

Things I’ve done so far.

Replaced all HVAC actuator diagrams.

All foam for HVAC doors replaced.

Fixed clunk in recirculation door.

Blower motor removed, cleaned, and bushings oiled. I would just throw a new motor in but couldn’t find any early blower motors. Although I haven’t had any issues with this one and the brushes looked like half life.

All ducts and coils cleaned (so we don’t have the old car smell when AC is on)

Printed circuit board replaced with a Lutz board.

GP White 928 S4

I'm at a similar disassembly point with my 88 S4 right now changing out all the vacuum pods. I'm also changing out power window switches, upgrading to the later model analogue clock, and replacing the rubber strip that connects the vacuum solenoids proactively. I did a new blower fan yesterday as well. Also have a new air vent hose for behind the cluster on the way from Germany as the original one crumbled on me.

Andrew Schauer

I'd make sure the seals around the blower housing/body sheet metal is good, that's a common source for water leaks into the fuse panel. Also verify your HVAC drain tube is connected correctly and not plugged. I'd probably replace all the dash bulbs as well. Your photo looks very familiar, I did the same about 15 years ago. Good luck!

Turbinesurgeon

Great points. I’ll check those items.
The Lutz circuit board comes with brighter LED lights so I’m excited to see how that turns out.

Turbinesurgeon

I like that later style clock. Gives it that old school styling. Does that plug in the same as the digital? Looks like it fits in the same hole.

The Forgotten On

The GTS analog clock fits into the same spot as the digital clock.

I did the work you did on your car last year on my 85. Took me about 18 hours of actual work and was a total PITA

GP White 928 S4

It fits in the same space but requires a minor rewiring to work with the earlier cars. There's a good write-up here: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-pictures.html

Thought of a couple other while-I'm-in-there jobs that are underway: changed out the relay to the beefier one for the HVAC head unit. Also updating the rubber shift boot to a nice looking leather one I got off eBay (will keep factory T-handle). Replaced the interior temperature sensor that mounts to the console since the cover was cracked and might as well update the internals as well.

Babado

You guys are very brave and talented!

Turbinesurgeon

This to me is one of the best parts of owning a car like this. It’s relaxing to me to do this kind of work and increase my knowledge of how things operate. This community seems to have many like minded individuals who contribute a massive amount of their knowledge and experience which makes repairing these cars possible.

Turbinesurgeon

Found something to add to the list

Andrew Schauer

Great, now I have to add that to my list! I didn't know the ignition tumbler was originally black.

Turbinesurgeon

Yes sir and after you paint it you’ll always be careful putting the key in

GP White 928 S4

Another while I'm in there job - replaced the glove box lamp lens - mine was cracked and yellowed.

Feel free to look up the Porsche part number 928-632-101-00 - it's available.

Now after you're done fainting after seeing the ~$225 price tag, I'll let you in on a little tip:

Order Mercedes part #A1238200101

As long as you source the "ULO" brand part (there's variants in Mercedes lens suppliers), it's the same lens. I got mine for $8 shipped from Latvia on eBay, took a couple weeks to show up. One of the contact pins is different on the Mercedes part. No big deal - you can easily de-pin your original contact from the old lens and swap it to the new one. Well worth it to pocket the savings!

gbgastowers

Make sure all your electronic vacuum actuators are working. They are the ones connected to the black rubber organ pipe

mj1pate

There are after market replacements for these guys. Place your finger on the case of one of these (OEM or aftermarket) while activated. Yes, they all get pretty equally warm by measurement.The after-markets are less than a fraction the cost of OEM.
My replacements are all attached by their cases to a heat sink. The OEM plastic tray that was underneath them has been removed for additional air space. I’m considering installing a low power DC mini-fan to provide air flow in that area… that is when my dash comes out in a few months.
oh…. Naturally just replace all of them while you’re in there. OEM or after-market. There is a really good thread going right now about extra measures to limit the initial blast of heater-induced hot air out the vents on start up in really hot days. Vacuum solenoid refresh is the easiest way to limit hot air infusion in general use.