crushingday

I did send them a message and immediately afterwards figured how to edit the Title of my thread and removed and disparaging references and asked that they now ignore my request for removal. So hopefully it stays.

crushingday

The vibration gets worse around 1700 RPM and continues from there. I ran it up to 3200 a couple of times and I am afraid to go any further

The TT was replaced due to bad splines when doing the two clutch discs. it was not replaced due to bearing issues.

FredR

OK so now we know you are looking for a problem that gets worse with engine speed as opposed to resonance induced vibrations at specific rpms so prime suspects may well be the TT bearings, the bearing mounts, migration of the bearing assembly and possibly something in the clutch area? You said earlier that pressing the clutch pedal some reduced the issue so maybe that needs exploring. I cannot visualise how that would ease a problem caused by TT bearings but...?

crushingday

Well, wouldn't one figure that if the vibration goes away upon pushing down the clutch pedal which subsequently causes the the shaft inside the bearings in the tube to no longer rotate. That make sense to me. And I apologize for the misunderstanding here. It's a matter of whether the clutch pedal is pushed down or not, it doesn't get better if the clutch is partially pushed in. If I push it in which causes the torque tube to come to a stop, the vibration stops.
Mark says " You can run a coat hanger in either end to see how far back the carrier is. You could have a clutch issue like a missing arm bushing or the short shaft not in the pilot bearing.

Constantine

The symptoms sound like the front bearing has moved.

Geza

Assuming the car is drivable, how about driving in 2nd up to 2500rpm or so on a flat road, then depress the clutch (remain in gear), and see what happens with the vibration. The driveshaft would still be spinning at ~2000rpm, driven by the rear tires.

FredR

Pushing in the clutch pedal disengages the TT from the engine- it does not stop the shaft spinning as that follows road speed as long as the gearbox is engaged constantly. Of course in such scenario the shaft is no longer under load so that may explain why the vibes "calm down" if indeed the bearing is out of kilter.

crushingday

Front bearing pictures.

FredR

Not much doubt about that!

Well done.

Constantine

So it looks like the old bearing insert has come apart.

How far down is the front bearing from the front?

crushingday

I didn't get a precise measurement as I was just using the borescope itself as a gauge. I'd say it was 14 in? Not sure

Constantine

That distance seems as if it has walked backward a bit and would be on the edge of having vibration problems starting during driving just by that occurence alone.

That movement probably helped to damage the bearing insert which caused all those vibrations you were experiencing underway at a much more pronounced level.

As Fred's post underscores, you now confirmed the problem and can get it fixed with a high degree of success!

Cheers.

crushingday

I can't say there has been any issues at either of those specific RPM's. However there has been a little roughness that appears around 2k and is gone by 2500 RPM's.

Here is a picture of the bearings. The plastic sleeve has failed in the bearings, most severely in the front bearing. The roller bearings themselves still seem to be smooth. it is just the this plastic sleeve that has disintegrated. I am not noting any cracks in my front clamp. But Can I take the front clamp to a machine shop and have it balanced to be sure. I am wondering if a slightly unbalanced clamp could cause a premature failure in the Black Sea R&D ( Constantine) bearings that I am installing now. I would hate to not fix what may have cause this issue while I am in there.

Mrmerlin

Umm I dont think the Constantine clamp works on a 5 speed.

More than likely the clutch is out of balance,
the clamps are balanced at the factory.
I would have the I clutch package balanced first.

crushingday

Oops! I miss spoke Stan I meant the Constantine bearings NOT the clamp. Oddly the same minor roughness that I am looking into to see if it was the reason for the bearing to fail vibration was present with my previous clutch as well. Admittedly that new clutch ob was only replacing the discs and resurfacing the fly wheel. I used the same clutch release guide tube and pressure plate.