Kevin in Atlanta

TT bearings have migrated - I have a TT rebuilt by Constantine waiting.

The GTS is fitted with a 3.09 R&P. I have a new GTS R&P for it.

The reverse switch is leaking.

So, I'm dropping everything.

I've done a few pre-PSD drivetrains. This will be my first PSD adventure.

I'd appreciate any advice on what makes the PSD drivetrain drop different. Where to disconnect the PSD lines would be good to know. :-)

Thanks.

Michael Benno

You can remove the PSD slave from the transmission and leave the PSD system intact. Let me get some pictures of my manual swap project for you.

Also, storngly recommend that you replace the PSD slave boot and flush the fluid WYAIT

Michael Benno

Remove the PSD slave line brackets from the chassis (#2), and from the left side of the transmission (#7), and the right side of the transmission (#10). Then you can unbolt the slave from the transmission (#12). You may need to lower the transmission a little to get access to to the slave mounting bolts

Here you can see the chassis bracket and the left bracket and the slave line routing.




Here you can see the the mounting bolts to the slave. Remove these bolts when you can access them.

Kevin in Atlanta

Thanks. That answers all my questions. I'll disconnect the slave when the transaxle is being lowered.

Plan on flushing the system when the transmission is almost back up in place when it's easy to reach the slave to bleed it.

FredR

Kevin,

Based on my own recent PSD experience I would disconnect the slave completely. If the connecting rod is corrosion free and there are no signs of problems all well and good. In my case it was a mess and the conrod was corrosion fused into the metal receptacle of the bellows assembly such that when removing the slave from its holding down bolts the bellows sheared. The spring niside should push the piston outwords- if you can work the piston back and forth using the conrod then chances are everything is fine. If the piston is seized then you need to remove the internals [one snap ring] and check the internals for any signs of corrosion of the bore and the piston.

Check the bore carefully to ensure there is no corrosion. I would also replace the seal package even if everything is in good nick. If there has been a seal leakage issue you will probably know about it pretty quickly.

Kevin in Atlanta

I checked the slave rod it's pristine. So, all good there.

Everything's disconnected except for the cooling lines.

​​​​​​Need to see where they're supposed to be disconnected. There's a banjo connection on the right side of the transaxle. Now I have to figure where to disconnect the other line.

Kevin

Kevin in Atlanta

@Michael Benno where did you connect the return line on the transaxle?

NoVector

I cut my cooling lines here and replaced the soft hose with hose and clamps from Greg.

Michael Benno

Hi Kevin, I am not sure I understand your question. The picture you are showing above is the return line that sprays cooled transmission oil on the gears. Here is how I routed mine:


In hindsight, I should have had that rubber hose made longer so that I could have made a few coils like the later cars to prevent the fluid in the cooler from draining back into the trans when not in motion or parked

Kevin in Atlanta

Let me clarify. There's a pipe attached to the transaxle with a 10 mm bolt. There's also a joint at the end of that pipe. Is there a preferred method or do I just simply undo the joint?

Kevin in Atlanta

Never mind, I figured it out just disconnected the joint and let it drain.

Michael Benno

Ah, I see. yes undo the pipe at the junction to the flex line and lower the transmission with the rest of the pipe attached to the transmission case. You should see the pipe is also P-clamped to the transmission cover making it impossible to remove in the car.

Kevin in Atlanta

Yeah, that's what I just figured out. I'll confirm everything's fully disconnected this afternoon and remove the remaining six bolts that hold the subframe body tomorrow..

Sometimes I get twisted around the axles figuratively and literally.

Kevin in Atlanta

All on the ground.

NoVector

With your lift, you don't have the same problems I had, but if you have a couple furniture movers laying around, they're great for moving the suspension around. When Harbor Freight has them on sale, they're less than $10 each...