Another Location for an Accusump
03-20-2006, 11:42 AM
#1
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Another Location for an Accusump
There was a thread here not long ago about accusump placement, and I could not get photos of mine to it in time - my Accusump was out at Canton Racing being flushed, rebuilt, and tested.
I installed it this weekend - here are the photos.
Like everything else - it is a compromise. I see a lot of accusumps mounted on passenger floor next to the driver. Low CG, and easy access to the manual switch (if you use one) - but I personally do not like the thought of 220 degree oil at 80 psi spraying all over me while I am driving should a seal or hose rupture. Gives me flash-backs to Space Shuttle Challenger and its o-rings...
This location assumes you have removed the heater-core anyway. Its a race car now. Then a 3-quart Accusmp fits nicely in that spot, the hoses and lines to the motor are short, and the unit is protected from all but the most serious crashes. And if it leaks... it is on the other side of the firewall from me.
You will see in the pictures that in order to do this, you do have to move the air fill and pressure gauge to a remote panel, as shown.
I installed it this weekend - here are the photos.
Like everything else - it is a compromise. I see a lot of accusumps mounted on passenger floor next to the driver. Low CG, and easy access to the manual switch (if you use one) - but I personally do not like the thought of 220 degree oil at 80 psi spraying all over me while I am driving should a seal or hose rupture. Gives me flash-backs to Space Shuttle Challenger and its o-rings...
This location assumes you have removed the heater-core anyway. Its a race car now. Then a 3-quart Accusmp fits nicely in that spot, the hoses and lines to the motor are short, and the unit is protected from all but the most serious crashes. And if it leaks... it is on the other side of the firewall from me.
You will see in the pictures that in order to do this, you do have to move the air fill and pressure gauge to a remote panel, as shown.
03-20-2006, 01:01 PM
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Great spot for heaterless cars. The best option I have see is in the rear bumper. Profeesor Ott has the accusump and an oil cooler in th rear bumper area. There used to be a lot of room there. 
03-20-2006, 01:33 PM
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Meaning no dis-respect to Professor Ott... I do not like the inner-rear bumper location so much.
That is a LOT of oil line to run, and I was wondering about the pressure-drop at the engine after all the elbows and fittings are navigated (if the pressure is too low at the motor, the oil willnot be able to get in). I do not know if that is a factor or not, but there is always a pressure drop in any fluid system based on length of the run and number of bends and corners.
Then there is filling what is meant to be a crushable impact area with a critical engine part.
Any nudge of the rear bumper may deform the canister enough to blow the o-rings, and 3 quarts of hot oil under pressure will be all over the pavement (not to mention your engine oil pressure will suddenly drop to zero).
And finally - a more subtle note, but attaching another 6 pounds that far away from your center of axis is a performance-handling no-no. It increases your moment of polar inertia. More towards the center of axis is better. Makes the car sluggish to turn. But, like I said, this one is a pretty subtle point.
There is no doubt... if you do not want it in the car with you, and you still have your heater core in place - it is very hard to find a spot for that Accusump.
That is a LOT of oil line to run, and I was wondering about the pressure-drop at the engine after all the elbows and fittings are navigated (if the pressure is too low at the motor, the oil willnot be able to get in). I do not know if that is a factor or not, but there is always a pressure drop in any fluid system based on length of the run and number of bends and corners.
Then there is filling what is meant to be a crushable impact area with a critical engine part.
Any nudge of the rear bumper may deform the canister enough to blow the o-rings, and 3 quarts of hot oil under pressure will be all over the pavement (not to mention your engine oil pressure will suddenly drop to zero).
And finally - a more subtle note, but attaching another 6 pounds that far away from your center of axis is a performance-handling no-no. It increases your moment of polar inertia. More towards the center of axis is better. Makes the car sluggish to turn. But, like I said, this one is a pretty subtle point.
There is no doubt... if you do not want it in the car with you, and you still have your heater core in place - it is very hard to find a spot for that Accusump.
03-20-2006, 06:36 PM
#5
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I was thinking that it should go in the right-side wheelhouse, in the rear where the washer tank and the carbon cannister live. For street cars, use the factory 'intensive washer' tank and pump as your primary washer tank. It **looks** like it might be a good place for it there. Move the CG a bit lower too, compared to up there at the base of the windscreen. (drops it a only a few inches really...)
03-20-2006, 06:49 PM
#6
Originally Posted by dr bob
I was thinking that it should go in the right-side wheelhouse, in the rear where the washer tank and the carbon cannister live. For street cars, use the factory 'intensive washer' tank and pump as your primary washer tank. It **looks** like it might be a good place for it there. Move the CG a bit lower too, compared to up there at the base of the windscreen. (drops it a only a few inches really...)
Both of those areas are great for alot of things. That place is also good for an oil tank if you are into the dry sump system.
Another place for the accusump (though I am not sure of the dimensions, or actually, if it really works when it needs to) is where the relay board is. No relay board would mean a new wiring system for the car, but....
Anyway, that area could be contoured so you would still have leg room, and the unit is low and towards the middle of the car.
03-20-2006, 08:19 PM
#7
Carl,
How do the oil lines run into the engine? I've seen adaptor plates that get sandwiched between the oil filter and block, is that what you're using?
I'm looking at possibly adding an accusump when I can get to that point with the rebuild.
Thanks.
How do the oil lines run into the engine? I've seen adaptor plates that get sandwiched between the oil filter and block, is that what you're using?
I'm looking at possibly adding an accusump when I can get to that point with the rebuild.
Thanks.
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03-21-2006, 10:49 AM
#9
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How do the oil lines run into the engine? I've seen adaptor plates that get sandwiched between the oil filter and block, is that what you're using?
You end up with only one braided line going from sandwich adapter to the Acusump. It looks like -12 AN to me, but I do not remember.
03-21-2006, 11:07 AM
#11
Burning Brakes
I don't know if it will work on an early car but on the S4 cars there is a nice spot behind the front bumper. I drilled into the alum bumper bar and mounted the 3qt res. right there. The legnth of line run to the filter adaptor was less than three feet if I recall.
03-21-2006, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Carl Fausett
Meaning no dis-respect to Professor Ott... I do not like the inner-rear bumper location so much.
That is a LOT of oil line to run, and I was wondering about the pressure-drop at the engine after all the elbows and fittings are navigated (if the pressure is too low at the motor, the oil willnot be able to get in). I do not know if that is a factor or not, but there is always a pressure drop in any fluid system based on length of the run and number of bends and corners.
There are very few bends or corners. Louis would have to chime in about pressure drop
Then there is filling what is meant to be a crushable impact area with a critical engine part.
Any nudge of the rear bumper may deform the canister enough to blow the o-rings, and 3 quarts of hot oil under pressure will be all over the pavement (not to mention your engine oil pressure will suddenly drop to zero).
I doubt it, it fits inside the channel of the bumper nicely so it is protected, somewhat.
And finally - a more subtle note, but attaching another 6 pounds that far away from your center of axis is a performance-handling no-no. It increases your moment of polar inertia. More towards the center of axis is better. Makes the car sluggish to turn. But, like I said, this one is a pretty subtle point.
If you still have your heater core this subtle difference is probably not too important
There is no doubt... if you do not want it in the car with you, and you still have your heater core in place - it is very hard to find a spot for that Accusump.
...And that was my point, for those of us without stripped cars Louis has an awfully nice option, imo.
That is a LOT of oil line to run, and I was wondering about the pressure-drop at the engine after all the elbows and fittings are navigated (if the pressure is too low at the motor, the oil willnot be able to get in). I do not know if that is a factor or not, but there is always a pressure drop in any fluid system based on length of the run and number of bends and corners.
There are very few bends or corners. Louis would have to chime in about pressure drop
Then there is filling what is meant to be a crushable impact area with a critical engine part.
Any nudge of the rear bumper may deform the canister enough to blow the o-rings, and 3 quarts of hot oil under pressure will be all over the pavement (not to mention your engine oil pressure will suddenly drop to zero).
I doubt it, it fits inside the channel of the bumper nicely so it is protected, somewhat.
And finally - a more subtle note, but attaching another 6 pounds that far away from your center of axis is a performance-handling no-no. It increases your moment of polar inertia. More towards the center of axis is better. Makes the car sluggish to turn. But, like I said, this one is a pretty subtle point.
If you still have your heater core this subtle difference is probably not too important
There is no doubt... if you do not want it in the car with you, and you still have your heater core in place - it is very hard to find a spot for that Accusump.
...And that was my point, for those of us without stripped cars Louis has an awfully nice option, imo.
03-21-2006, 01:24 PM
#13
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You can use canton's spin-on filter with a -10 fitting on the end. The old style filter was a bit easier with the bolt on end plate, but I think you can drill and tap the new style one without much effort.
This way you can run one single line from the accusump. Simple and neat.
I had mine mounted near the rear seats and it worked fine on the track car.
This way you can run one single line from the accusump. Simple and neat.
I had mine mounted near the rear seats and it worked fine on the track car.
03-21-2006, 05:01 PM
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Carl--
The "pressure drop" in those long lines is a function of flow, and the flow isn't really that large, is it? Think about how big the reservoir is, and how long it takes to charge with the engine running, discharge when you first turn it on with the engine off. These times will tell you how much "loss" there is with the long hoses. I guess you need to just have enough flow to pressurize the engine and get a little flow through the bearings. t some point early in the process, one would hope that the bearings and lifters would become the biggest restriction.
Easy check: Watch the oil pressure gauge as you discharge the accusump, and see that you have enough pressure to crank.
The "pressure drop" in those long lines is a function of flow, and the flow isn't really that large, is it? Think about how big the reservoir is, and how long it takes to charge with the engine running, discharge when you first turn it on with the engine off. These times will tell you how much "loss" there is with the long hoses. I guess you need to just have enough flow to pressurize the engine and get a little flow through the bearings. t some point early in the process, one would hope that the bearings and lifters would become the biggest restriction.
Easy check: Watch the oil pressure gauge as you discharge the accusump, and see that you have enough pressure to crank.
03-21-2006, 06:08 PM
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Bob - yes, you are right.... but: there is an immediacy to getting the oil into the motor in the middle of the Carosel at Road America, for example.
I need LPM (liters per minute) and I need it NOW. I cannot have the oil meander back into the motor in a small quantity because of a really long run and many elbows... sort of defeats the purpose.
I admit I do not know what that effect is of a really long run of -8 AN oil line - I have never tested it. Maybe it is negligable. We all know a lot of 90 degree elbows and bends are bad in any fluid delivery system. Air, oil, water, whatever.
I need LPM (liters per minute) and I need it NOW. I cannot have the oil meander back into the motor in a small quantity because of a really long run and many elbows... sort of defeats the purpose.
I admit I do not know what that effect is of a really long run of -8 AN oil line - I have never tested it. Maybe it is negligable. We all know a lot of 90 degree elbows and bends are bad in any fluid delivery system. Air, oil, water, whatever.