FS: Body Parts
10-05-2006, 07:22 PM
#16
Prices
Don't want my thread to be pulled, so...
Not sure what to ask. Below are asking prices, or best offer.
Hood: $200
Doors: $250 each
Fenders: $375 each
Front Bumper Cover: $100
These prices are about half of the going prices that I see. They are completely negotiable, especially if you can help with a brain.
Local to NJ purchasers would be preferable. Shipping prices are not included above, so please keep that in mind.
A pair of 84 Euro brains will take the lot.
Thanks,
Kevin
1984 Euro Auto 16v
Not sure what to ask. Below are asking prices, or best offer.
Hood: $200
Doors: $250 each
Fenders: $375 each
Front Bumper Cover: $100
These prices are about half of the going prices that I see. They are completely negotiable, especially if you can help with a brain.
Local to NJ purchasers would be preferable. Shipping prices are not included above, so please keep that in mind.
A pair of 84 Euro brains will take the lot.
Thanks,
Kevin
1984 Euro Auto 16v
Last edited by Iris and Kevin; 10-05-2006 at 09:30 PM. Reason: Add Bumper Price
10-06-2006, 04:03 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by mark kibort
what color are the fenders and hood?
10-06-2006, 10:01 AM
#21
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Kevin, side topic - but why do you think you need new euro brains? From what I understand, the early LH and EZK brains are fairly robust as compared to other years?
- Kevin 84 S2
- Kevin 84 S2
10-06-2006, 12:43 PM
#23
Originally Posted by k1woods
Kevin, side topic - but why do you think you need new euro brains? From what I understand, the early LH and EZK brains are fairly robust as compared to other years?
- Kevin 84 S2
- Kevin 84 S2
Because a week ago this car was a supercharged screamin' demon. Two days before I was supposed to go to the dyno (last Thursday night), I took it out for a 1 mile test drive. Went to a half-mile straightaway on a highway near me, floored it from a standstill, and chirped tires at each shift, right up to fourth gear, and then it suddenly just died going 90 mph for no f'n reason that I can determine. My wife had to tow me home. Since then, I've torn the entire car apart, just about, trying to find a short or some explanation.
The injectors don't get gas, even though there is power going to them. The injector harness has no shorts (I've removed it, dissected it, and reassembled it -- no damage anywhere). The fuel pump pumps, all the sensors are good (tested and/or swapped several times), the relays are all good, the ignition modules were just replaced, and there's power everywhere there's supposed to be power. It does start if I put gas in the intake.
There's no excuse for this no-start situation, which is why I'm looking at the brains at this point, although now I'm leaning maybe more towards the injection brain rather than it being the ignition brain. The computer is not opening or grounding the injectors so they don't work. But, not being a computer freak, I don't really know why. I'm considering getting the injection brain I have rebuilt. But I hear that maybe the ignition brain is not even rebuildable, or at least I can't find a source to rebuild the ignition unit, so that's why I need known good units. Would just rather get a matched pair if I could -- less uncertainty.
All I know is, if I can't find a solution to this mess soon, I'm so frustrated I'm just going to give up. I've been working on this car nearly eight hours a day for the past two months trying to restore it and bring it up to supercharging snuff. Now the car is about two steps away from the junkyard, just like the white car -- taking many many many thousands of unrecoverable dollars with it.
And at this point, I don't think I'll even bother trying again, I'm so disgusted. So if any of you could help with the brains, I'd really appreciate it. If the parts above are not tempting to you, try requesting other stuff that's not good for the Euro, I might still have it.
Or even come up with another idea for me. Because I'm out of ideas and I'm out of patience.
Thanks for listening,
Kevin
1984 Euro Auto 16v
10-06-2006, 12:53 PM
#24
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Hey Kev - sent you a PM with stuff to check. If you really get frustrated I can bring up my boxes to test. Hang in there, prb something simple like grounds. - Kevin
10-06-2006, 01:04 PM
#25
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Kevin, I doubt it your LH or EZF. Look through the recent threads by Scott M. and I on our no-start problems. If you want, I'll send you my spare LH. I was told it is good, but I haven't tried it. You can also use 85-86 US LH and EZF as I mentioned before. My car ran on them, John Speake's car ran on them and Normy's car is now running on them with the chips reprogrammed to Euro S2 maps. They are a plug and play swap and you can even wire them to your O2 sensor for lambda correction.
10-06-2006, 01:19 PM
#26
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Matt,
What's involved in testing the LH or EZF from an 85? Mine are working fine and I was going to make an offer to Kevin on the front bumper cover anyway, maybe we can work out a deal where I come pick up the cover and he tries my LH and/or EZF (assuming I've got a better than average chance of making it home again).
BTW- Kevin, she's a beauty, don't give up now.
What's involved in testing the LH or EZF from an 85? Mine are working fine and I was going to make an offer to Kevin on the front bumper cover anyway, maybe we can work out a deal where I come pick up the cover and he tries my LH and/or EZF (assuming I've got a better than average chance of making it home again).
BTW- Kevin, she's a beauty, don't give up now.
10-06-2006, 01:26 PM
#27
Just for all your information, I've been looking into the 85 swap thing, and I got this message from John Speake today:
"Do not use an US 85/86 EZK with your Euro, you will get lots of pinking !
You can use a US 85/86 LH, and being as you are somehow going to adjust fuelling for your s/c then you may be able to get the fuellling OK.
I can supply a Euro chip for a US 85/86 but it is not the ideal solution..."
Some people say it works, but John says it don't. How can I decide what to do? I wish there were more 84 cars/parts available. This is outta control.
Kevin
1984 Euro Auto 16v
"Do not use an US 85/86 EZK with your Euro, you will get lots of pinking !
You can use a US 85/86 LH, and being as you are somehow going to adjust fuelling for your s/c then you may be able to get the fuellling OK.
I can supply a Euro chip for a US 85/86 but it is not the ideal solution..."
Some people say it works, but John says it don't. How can I decide what to do? I wish there were more 84 cars/parts available. This is outta control.
Kevin
1984 Euro Auto 16v
10-06-2006, 02:03 PM
#28
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Since you have spark and the car will run with fuel added, the problem is not the EZF. Mine was bad MAF, Temp II wiring problem, and a harness clamp that was too tight causing a short which all combined to cause the opposite problem from you... way too much fuel.
Check for EZF to LH crank signal. Check all grounds (power and electronic grounds for the computers are to the passenger side cam tower). Check Temp II, crank impulse/position (should not be a problem since you have spark), and MAF. In theory, you should be able to disconnect every other sensor and the car will run. Check for 12v on one side of the injectors with ignition on and cranking. Disconnect X harness from panel and all injector wires, then check for continuity between each pair of injector wire, injector ground and chassis ground, injector 12V and chassis ground. There are many more things to check...
If you still think the EZF is a problem, you can use the 85-86 EZF. For an extra margin of safety, connect the green retard wire next to the computers. It will retard ignition 6*. I wouldn't drive a supercharged car heavily like this, but it will work to test function.
Check for EZF to LH crank signal. Check all grounds (power and electronic grounds for the computers are to the passenger side cam tower). Check Temp II, crank impulse/position (should not be a problem since you have spark), and MAF. In theory, you should be able to disconnect every other sensor and the car will run. Check for 12v on one side of the injectors with ignition on and cranking. Disconnect X harness from panel and all injector wires, then check for continuity between each pair of injector wire, injector ground and chassis ground, injector 12V and chassis ground. There are many more things to check...
If you still think the EZF is a problem, you can use the 85-86 EZF. For an extra margin of safety, connect the green retard wire next to the computers. It will retard ignition 6*. I wouldn't drive a supercharged car heavily like this, but it will work to test function.
10-06-2006, 03:42 PM
#30
Originally Posted by FlyingDog
Since you have spark and the car will run with fuel added, the problem is not the EZF. Mine was bad MAF, Temp II wiring problem, and a harness clamp that was too tight causing a short which all combined to cause the opposite problem from you... way too much fuel.
Check for EZF to LH crank signal. Check all grounds (power and electronic grounds for the computers are to the passenger side cam tower). Check Temp II, crank impulse/position (should not be a problem since you have spark), and MAF. In theory, you should be able to disconnect every other sensor and the car will run. Check for 12v on one side of the injectors with ignition on and cranking. Disconnect X harness from panel and all injector wires, then check for continuity between each pair of injector wire, injector ground and chassis ground, injector 12V and chassis ground. There are many more things to check...
If you still think the EZF is a problem, you can use the 85-86 EZF. For an extra margin of safety, connect the green retard wire next to the computers. It will retard ignition 6*. I wouldn't drive a supercharged car heavily like this, but it will work to test function.
Check for EZF to LH crank signal. Check all grounds (power and electronic grounds for the computers are to the passenger side cam tower). Check Temp II, crank impulse/position (should not be a problem since you have spark), and MAF. In theory, you should be able to disconnect every other sensor and the car will run. Check for 12v on one side of the injectors with ignition on and cranking. Disconnect X harness from panel and all injector wires, then check for continuity between each pair of injector wire, injector ground and chassis ground, injector 12V and chassis ground. There are many more things to check...
If you still think the EZF is a problem, you can use the 85-86 EZF. For an extra margin of safety, connect the green retard wire next to the computers. It will retard ignition 6*. I wouldn't drive a supercharged car heavily like this, but it will work to test function.
Yes, I've tried all of this. It's all in the book. I replaced and tested all the sensors (bought new TDC, CPS, Temp II) and then tested the new ones for the heck of it. I just did that for the twentieth time this morning, trying to find what I've missed. The power is where it's supposed to be, and at the correct levels. I've gone over and over every ground, wire, fuse, relay, etc., and NOTHING comes up.
Kevin
1984 Euro Auto 16v