danglerb

Does the Euro S motor have any simple visual clues, or do I need to start checking part numbers? Other than the model of the motor is there any other part that is easy to check?

I am asking in reference to a junkyard motor, or a ad in a local paper where I would like to find out what it is, but not send the seller off checking ebay.

Jim bailey - 928 International

There are two Euro cars parked beside the building stop by and I will open the hoods...but the real answer is you want to check the engine number on the block because I KNOW there are Euro S cars with all or part of a USA engine...dropped in after they blew up the original engine. At least by checking block numbers you know it was a Euro block and it MIGHT still have Euro S heads and S cams....although there are several S cars running USA cams because we sold them to them as a less expensive way to make the car RUN.

danglerb

Guy I was talking to via email made it sound like the Euro Cams vs US Cams on a ported Euro head don't make that much difference. Does that sound right?

Jim bailey - 928 International

Never tried that combination but would guess it would lay down some at higher RPM due to less lift and duration even with the larger valves , low end torque should be a little better. Porsche decided they needed a 4.7 instead of 4.5 , bigger valves, bigger intake runners, more cam ,more compression, bigger throttle body to get 300-310 hp anything less should be less...

danglerb

Sometimes less is more, more or less, but if it was a little less top end, a bit more low end, and lot less money, that might be OK. Besides isn't swapping a cam about a half hour job if I changed my mind later?

BTW are you sure the way Porsche designed the 928 wasn't more like, here it is 5.5L and 350 hp, so we cut that down to 219 to punish the Americans for a few years, then give them 234 hp, ...

RyanPerrella

Dang

I would think you could get a Euro in decent shape complete for $3000

If you want a GT engine I have onf of those, but I would stick with the Euro. Not sure but I would think another 16V swap would be a hell of allot easier. And allot cheaper then messing with tuning the engine you have. Buy a good Euro for $3000, sell yours for $1000 and its a no brainer.

danglerb

Thats sort of the idea, except Euro top end on a 5.0L shortblock (Jim said 85/86 not sure why), cut a 16v valve relief in the pistons, and should be good for 300 rwhp, run off the L jetronic on pump gas and pass smog easy. The WYIT brings up the cost a bit, since might as well rebuild the 5.0L since the pistons are coming out, and might as well do the heads, not sure what that will total up to, but the results should be very nice. If I turn up a cheap Euro motor I might just pop for that and skip the fancy stuff.

I plan on doing a thread soon to see what sort of interest there is in the parts I replace, 4.7 longblock, 5 spd tranny, broken clutch fan, etc.

heinrich

85/86 Euro S has twin distributors on the driver's side

danglerb

Those are LH and I think there is a issue about putting a LH motor into a 83. I'm not really sure, but my first idea was just put in a S4, and Greg said that requires a lot of rewiring I think.

heinrich

Heck I have an entire '85 engine with harness and everything you could instal

danglerb

I just don't understand what works, whats easy, whats hard, I know people swap different model year motors around a lot, but I don't know how well it really works.

So far this hybrid thing sounds like it works, everything else makes me feel pretty stupid. I just have to see what more experienced people think about the options.

Let me start a new thread, with a more to the point title and see what sort of comments show up.

Normy

Porsche used twin distributors on the ROW '84-'86 models since these were equipped with the EZF ignition system, which requires twin distributors. This ignition was fitted to the '85 and '86 4 valve cars, and I suspect for reasons of simplification on the assembly line they grafted this system to the outgoing high output 2 valve engines as well. I guess it would be expensive to modify the 2 valve system to accept distributors at the ends of the cams, so they rigged up a system with two 944 distributors linked by a small toothed belt instead.

Well, it works...

N

danglerb

I saw one the other day at Greg's shop, didn't know what it was for though.

Nice looking motor, very tidy.

Podguy

Right for the 84-86 Euro the dual distributor is the tip off. For the 80-83 S the thing to look at is the location of the WUR (Warm Up Regulator) on the lower horse power 4.5 US and Euro models the WUR is mounted at an angle. On the 4.7 S motor it is mounted straight up vertically. More difficult to tell from a picture is the size of the intake tubes on the spider. They are bigger than the lower horse power 4.5 motor. If you can check the engine try to put your fingers around the tubes. If they meet then you either have very long fingers or a lower horsepower spec engine. The castings are smoother too for the S motor.

A word of caution, even this may not be enough. There are people who put the bigger flow manifolds and injection on the 4.5 motor. The best way to tell is to look at the motor number stamped in the block on the left side of the thermostat. It should be M28/11 or M28/12 for the 300HP motor.

danglerb

Ah, left of the thermostat, thanks. M28/21 or 22 preferred over the 11/12 right? or no difference for my top end uses?