ViribusUnits

Does anyone have a basic proceidure for replaceing the upper A-frame ball joint boots?

While replaceing my lower aluminum ball joints with steel ones I noticed my upper boots are bad. The Lawn Ornamate's upper ball joints are currently OK, and are under a temporary layer of grease and duct tape. Both sides need new boots.

Do I have to remove the a-frame to replace the boot, or is it possible to do the job with the frame on the car? I know I have to get the ball joint stud out of the spindle, but not much else about the job.

I did a search of the archives and didn't find a basic proedciure on it. I also didn't find one on Greg's site, so I'm at a loss.

I would like to know how involved the job is, how much time it would take, and if I need any unique tools.

The Lawn Ornamate is an 83 928S US spec.

Thanks

Snowball the 81 white 928

you can get replacement audi boots (431.407.377.A)

repack with good moly grease and burp out the air. the circular metal clips are a pita to install, just take your time. don't damage them as they are one of porsche's "unillustrated parts." a-arm doesn't have to be removed, just split the ball joint. if you use a picklefork you might damage the lip that the clip rests in. use a good kukko ball joint breaker from baum tools.

<img src="graemlins/icon107.gif" border="0" alt="[icon107]" />

ViribusUnits

Thanks.

It sounds easy. As if there is anything "easy" to fix on my car. Everything goes into overtime, because eighter I screw up, or there's a suprise.

I'm hopeing it's easy. I'm plannin on doing it this winter, but who know when it'll happen. The duct tape seems to be holding up well for now, and there are other prioritys. (maybe I can get to the a/c before summer...)

User 4221

928 Intl. has the boots.

It's a piece of cake. Do it now with the front end torn down or pay the $250+ to replace each upper A-arm

HTH,
Scott

ViribusUnits

I'm gonna do it ASAP. I figure I need to get the steering rack replaced so I can get it aligned, or I'm going to be the proud owner of 200+ dallors worth of brand new worn out tires.

The boot just keeps dirt out and greese in, and the duct tape is working, for now. Just a tempary fix mind you. And I've got an extra set of a-frame arms sitting in the shop, just in case. They were given to my by a freind. :-)

Brian Bowman

Getting ready to do my upper ball joints too, when I switch out my spindles and add S4 brakes. Anybody know if the "C clamp" style ball joint separator sold by Harbor Freight ($40) will work? I don't want to risk tearing up the boot/joint with a pickle fork, but also don't really want to spend $400 on the Baum tool.

-Brian

1980 928S 5sp. Euro
Silbermetallic/Blau
928 OC

User 4221

Vir,

Good idea on the rack. I did all at the same time.. Ball joints, rack and alignment. It made a heck of a difference on steering feedback and tracking.

Brian,

Wally P. had a great method for releasing tapered shafts on Greg Nichols' page here: <a href="http://www.nichols.nu/tip086.htm" target="_blank">http://www.nichols.nu/tip086.htm</a>

Also, check out the entire portfolio of tips:
<a href="http://www.nichols.nu/tips.htm" target="_blank">http://www.nichols.nu/tips.htm</a>

I bought the pickle forks (dumb move) and proceeded to destroy a boot. I then used Wally's method and the joints practically jumped out of their mounting locations.

HTH,
Scott

ViribusUnits

Question about splitting ball joints.

Why not try smacking the cone shapes part with a hammer. I did it to the lower ball joints and it worked nicely.

First undo the nut most of the way, but not all the way, so as thing won't fly apart, and to protect the ball joints threads.

Then the basic idea is to take a large peice of steel (I found a cut up well head bolt to be ideal.) and place it aginst the metal part on the spindle that encircles the ball joint. Take a sledge hammer, and hit the peice of steel. You have it hit it pretty hard, and be very careful that you don't hit the ball joint it's self, or anything else. I've got a good bit of experence swinging sledges, but it was very easy, in my opinion. You might have to hit it more than once. I used plenty of WD-40 for additional help.

It worked fairly nicely on the lower ball joints.

Would there be anything to stop me from useing the above procidue on the upper ball joints?

Thanks

User 4221

That should do it. Your version is a condensed version of Wally's.

Good luck.
Scott

ViribusUnits

When I wrote my post, your post wasn't there Scot. Sorry about the duplicity.

Thanks for the adice. Did you use it on the upper or lower ball joints? It worked well for the lower ones, is it the same for the upper?

jpitman

As long as you are only smacking the steel part of the spindle eye (where taper goes through), the same process will work.
I have a separator like the VW one shown in the manuals, but it only cost me ~$15. Chase down tool supply houses via google.
See
<a href="http://www.handsontools.com/store/list_products/?start_value=24&category_id=8250&search_desc=&product_number=" target="_blank">http://www.handsontools.com/store/list_products/?start_value=24&category_id=8250&search_desc=&product_number=</a>
S&G tools $11.98
or JCWhitney at
<a href="http://www.jcwhitney.com/SearchCatContainer.jhtml?_requestid=94735" target="_blank">http://www.jcwhitney.com/SearchCatContainer.jhtml?_requestid=94735</a>
$17.99 SKU
81ZX2149N

jp

ViribusUnits

Thanks

Gonna do it soon.