UKKid35

My Anchors have now failed

So I'll be fitting some replacements at some point, not sure when, but the temptation to try to replace the original cork sump gasket is going to be weighing on me

Definitely going to do my best to replace the rubber steering shaft isolator thingy too (one of the bolts is spinning, that prevented me from doing so last time I tried)

Landseer

The silicon replacement gasket is probably one of the best upgrades ever. I installed 4 back in 2008/9 timeframe. One I later removed after 5 years service from a failed engine and reinstalled on a fifth car. Flush the bolt holes thoroughly with brake cleaner and use blue loctite.

Three of these cars are sitting in driveway, no leaks even today. Mixed bag though with the mounts. Anchor used deficient specs and mfg practices IIRC and didnt care. Mine are all still installed, but ready for replacement.

Will you use the Volvo mounts this time?

SwayBar

How long did thry last?

UKKid35

I fitted them in 2006, and they had probably failed by this time two years ago, so well over ten years and about 80k miles

I paid about $20 each

Schocki

Mine lasted over 5 years but finally failed in 2014 and were replaced with Volvo mounts. They are still fine.

Failed anchor on the left, center new anchor, right new Volvo mount.

GregBBRD

Pretty tough to complain about that!

UKKid35

Any advice on using an engine crane while removing the cross member in order to replace the mounts and sump gasket?

I've never used a crane before on the 928, only on my other car, where it didn't have the reach to be able to use it from the front

Would I have to remove the hood?

Bulvot

This post has a photo of what I did: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l#post17677402

I disconnected the hood struts and propped the hood up about as high as it would go. That way I didn't have to realign the hood. Then I used two motor supports. They're generic and you could get them anywhere, but these are the ones that I used: . I went with two so that I wouldn't put too much load on each individual fender support, but most people use one at an angle. Personally, I recommend two.

The large wing nut for the rear support would not clear the hood. So, I used extra washers and a regular nut in place of that wing nut.

I wouldn't want to use an engine hoist since it can move relative to the car, allowing the engine height to change. Plus, it would be in the way when working under the car and not allow you to change the car height if it's on a lift. If you have the car on jack stands, I would worry that it might affect the balance. But, it's probably doable. I would think that you would need to remove the hood in order to get enough clearance for the hoist arm and the load leveler, but you can try removing the hood struts and propping it up first to see if that gives you enough room. It only needs to have enough room to lift a couple of inches relative to the body.

Which part # did you order for the Anchors? I listed a cross reference for motor mounts here: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l#post17705308

It looks like the Anchor 2698SR is the solid rubber mount, and without the trailing "SR" it should be hydraulic. Just wondering which ones you're going with.

UKKid35

Sadly my only option is to work under axle stands, actually that's not true because there is a workshop nearby where you can rent a space with a lift

I only use that option to do a job I know well, where I'm sure there is nothing that can stop me in my tracks, with the clock ticking interminably

Last time I was using axle stands, and I think I supported the engine by the sump while dropping the cross-member slightly, to swap out the engine mounts

However, it looks like it might be possible to support the engine where the mounts attach to the block, since that surface is horizontal

Then perhaps it might be possible to remove the sump, although I'd like some sort of failsafe support somewhere else as well

buccicone

Time for a quick Jack.

Bulvot

Well, we do what we have to do. I've done many significant repairs in lots of less than ideal places with lots of less than ideal tools. I can see jack stands under the motor mount attachment points on the motor working out. But, if it is an option for you, I do recommend getting the motor supports like I linked to. Kind of a one trick pony, but that trick makes everything else so much easier and safer.

jon928se

1 Piece of 6"x2" Pine approx 4" long
2 pieces of 1.5" sq pine about 10" long.
1 x M10 eyebolt.
1 shackle (8mm dia pin)

Shape the two 1.5" pieces to fit the inner wing rails centred roughly where the cross brace sits, counterbore the base of the 1.5" sq pieces so they don't sit on the the self tapping screws that fasten the wing (fender) to inner wing. Screw the 6"x2" piece to the two 1.5" sq pieces so that they push firmly against the vertical face of the inner / outer wing joint. Drill a 10mm dia hole through the 6"x2" to line up with the lifting bracket that the spark plug wires clip to on the front of the engine.
Attach lifting eye to eyebolt with shackle.
From underneath raise engine using trolley jack and timber spreader under the oil pan. Take up slack in the eyebolt.
Replace motor mounts

Bertrand Daoust

Or this:


See post #10 here for detail.
Changing Motor Mounts Tomorrow - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums

UKKid35

Thank you all for your suggestions

I had been wary of suspending the engine by the seems where the wings are attached, after all that engine is 264kg, which is more than four of me

However, you all seem to have proved that it can be done without risking bodywork damage, so that does appear to be the best option

When I replaced the heads 18 years ago(!) I didn't refit the two hoist brackets, looks like I will need to find them

Prionace Glauca

I modified one of these Ranger engine supports to fit the front fender-to-fender (wing-to-wing) dimensions on the my S4
I was upgrading the oil pan gasket to silicone version. Worked great and I was not apprehensive about getting under the vehicle.
The front lift bracket did not budge.