Old Bugger Engine Coming Out

[LT Texan]

It's out!





I went to bed last night thinking, "2 gas lines and 2 clutch housing bolts"

But I also needed to get the pressure plate lever off and the wire harness that goes through the driver's side crossmember around the alternator. (Workshop manual's steps are incomplete.)

The plate lever was a real b*tch. Don't understand why. Oh well, I'll figure it out.

The clutch housing bolts were not bad at all.

The M12 1.5 bolts for the upper clutch housing are not long enough for the engine stand. Need about 120 or 130mm. Of course I can't find a local source.

The 12 point star key for the fly wheel - well I can't find that either.

Other than that, I'm pretty happy.

Nice time bonding with my Dad. Some of you might remember him from the DC event "the year of the sniper."

It's great to own one of these cars!!!

Dan
p.s., I've crossed posted from the mail list because there's a great group there that I just can't loose touch with!!!

[Mrmerlin]

for the clutch fork did you put in the 3 pin spacers to hold the pressure plate at a loaded position?
If you do this the fork is easier to remove from its ball/plastic bushing, there are 3 pins that stick out the rear side of the presure plate get some wire about 2 times as thick as a coat hanger bend into litte U`s and fit them on the pins before removing the presure plate bolts

[mark kibort]

so, what is the plan?

I dont know the flywheel star bolt dimensions, but the long 6mm allen socket is a must for the cam tower bolts !

mk

Originally Posted by Dan Perez

It's out!

http://members.rennlist.com/lt_texan/PC270111.JPG
http://members.rennlist.com/lt_texan/PC270112.JPG

I went to bed last night thinking, "2 gas lines and 2 clutch housing bolts"

But I also needed to get the pressure plate lever off and the wire harness that goes through the driver's side crossmember around the alternator. (Workshop manual's steps are incomplete.)

The plate lever was a real b*tch. Don't understand why. Oh well, I'll figure it out.

The clutch housing bolts were not bad at all.

The M12 1.5 bolts for the upper clutch housing are not long enough for the engine stand. Need about 120 or 130mm. Of course I can't find a local source.

The 12 point star key for the fly wheel - well I can't find that either.

Other than that, I'm pretty happy.

Nice time bonding with my Dad. Some of you might remember him from the DC event "the year of the sniper."

It's great to own one of these cars!!!

Dan
p.s., I've crossed posted from the mail list because there's a great group there that I just can't loose touch with!!!

[LT Texan]

Originally Posted by mark kibort

so, what is the plan?

mk

euro heads/cam 95mm re-ring, new bearings...plan so far.

worried if I can find a head gasket that is thin enough to give me t squish I want with 95mm pistons.

[largecar379]

I've got a NIB set of 4.5L pistons w/rings high compression domes tolerance group 1.

would part with them if you're interested.

PM me for details---

--Russ

[LT Texan]

Okay, does anyone know the name and size of the bit for the flywheel bolts? I need to get online and find a source. Struck out at Sears.

[Airflite40]

They are called cheese heads or triple squares, you can find some at pep boys although they are rather poor quality, I bought my set from rennbay

http://www.rennbay.com/triple-square...set-p-120.html

[mark kibort]

Remember, i have that almost brand NEW 4.7 liter, read to drop right in! this change alone brought Scots 928 from 218 rwhp to 250rwhp.

no rings to change, no bearings to change, no seals to change, just drop it in. Its all sealed up ready to ship. Its a stock euro 82 4.7.
I think we are now at $1400 shipped!

MK

Originally Posted by Dan Perez

euro heads/cam 95mm re-ring, new bearings...plan so far.

worried if I can find a head gasket that is thin enough to give me t squish I want with 95mm pistons.

[LT Texan]

Originally Posted by Airflite40

They are called cheese heads or triple squares, you can find some at pep boys although they are rather poor quality, I bought my set from rennbay

http://www.rennbay.com/triple-square...set-p-120.html

Thanks! Ordered a set.

Dan

[LT Texan]

Originally Posted by mark kibort

Remember, i have that almost brand NEW 4.7 liter, read to drop right in! this change alone brought Scots 928 from 218 rwhp to 250rwhp.

no rings to change, no bearings to change, no seals to change, just drop it in. Its all sealed up ready to ship. Its a stock euro 82 4.7.
I think we are now at $1400 shipped!

MK

Mark, I don't want to ask, but here goes. What does "almost new" mean?

[Airflite40]

I this is better left to Mark, but I think the engine was assembeled and started very shortly but the head was not torqued down properly and disassembeled, at which point scot went with a 5.0 hybrid

[hupp]

Dan,

I pulled my '79 engine about four years ago and refreshed. If I had to do it all again I would have to take a real hard look at buying Mark's 4.7 liter. You will spend at least as much refreshing your 4.5 liter.

Here's the thing, you have a real good chance of finding everything you need to assemble a euro top end with the resources on the board. Or at least the key top end stuff to take real advantage of that extra displacement. I would bet that if you put the "feelers" out there you'll have everything you need within a matter of weeks. Basis your post, you're already going to install the euro heads -- so your almost there anyway. This is almost a "no brainer" for $1400 shipped.

I'm not saying that you will be saving a boat load of money, just saying you have a good chance to drop a complete M28-11 euro in your OB at a reasonable cost.

....man, as crazy as it may be, the more I type the more I'm tempted to do it all again for a euro power plant.

P.S. I'm not the same Scott Airflite was refering to -- no affiliation.

[LT Texan]

pic1 and 2 Look at the heatshield. Melted down onto the clutch housing cover.

pic3 How in the world do you replace the blue hose with the engine in?

pic4 Anyone know what these are?

pic5 And what a hatchet job. One splice from the starter to this connection.

pic6 And the other side goes to the fuse block (I think)
(how do you get text between the pictures?)

[RyanPerrella]

ha ha the blue hose is still a PITA with the engine removed. I think i spend 3-4 hours in fits doing the blue hose and the clutch master cylinder when the engine bay was completely empty!

I cant imagine doing a clutch master cylinder with the engine in the car. The reason i replaced it was that i couldnt get the blue hose onto my old one, so i bought the new master, put one end of the hose on it while it was in my hands, and reinstalled the clutch slave but that was a huge pain. Definately not fun.

[RyanPerrella]

I agree that marks motor is the way to go. I havent been following what all your doing but if you already have Euro heads, it makes sense to have the Euro block to go with it.

From experience, rings will cost $300, main's $250, rod bearings $180 thats $730 right there. Actually rings for 4.5's maybe more expensive due to low availability. I think either the 95mm or the 97mm rings are double the cost of the other. Last i heard anyway.