Sean79 5spd

Recently, I have had trouble starting the car. It takes maybe 20 cranks to get the engine to fire and then it coughs and splutters for 5 or so seconds before it settles in a nice idle.

I have visually checked for leaks in the engine compartment but have not gone as far as to follow the fuel lines all the way back to the tank. Pumps / check valve, and fuel hoses in engine bay were replaced a couple of years ago.

Could this be a fuel accumulator problem?

Thanks

928ntslow

I am certainly no expert, but have been dealing with the CIS and the same issues for a month now. Have you run any cleaners through your tank to clean out the fuel lines? Anything that I can see after that is chasing the problem around to each component....which there are several threads of late on this.

I'm guessing someone will chime in with the WUR or the CSV. Need to make sure these are not clogged and are getting the necessary voltage when needed.

Sean79 5spd

No cleaners, I stick to Chevron with Techron. WUR is also new.

Forgot to mention that problem only occurs after the car site for at least a day. This leads me to believe the accumulator is not holding pressure or there is a slow leak.

Randy V

One or more of the following:

Leaking injectors, leaking accumulator, leaking fuel check valve.

Definitely try running some Berryman's Fuel System Cleaner through it as a first step.

Sean79 5spd

Must be accumulator because injectors & fule check valve are new.

Randy, when you refer to fuel check valve, do you mean the one on the discharge side of the external pump?

Dennis Wilson

Sean,

There are two configurations on the plumbing of the accumulator. The original just has the inlet and outlet lines. The upgrade has an additional line from the back side that returns leaking fuel to the tank. If yours has the upgrade, remove the backside line and check for fuel. If no fuel, the accumulator is OK. If yours is the original two line accumulator, you will see evidence of fuel leakage if the accumumlator is causing a leakdown hard start problem. That doesn't mean the accumulator is good, just that it isn't causing a leakdown.

Also, check for 12 volts at the cold start valve during initial cranking. If no voltage, the thermotime switch is probably bad or there is something wrong in the fuel pump relay circuit the powers the switch.

Dennis

Sean79 5spd

Thanks Dennis. I will check the accumulator.

Do I take from what you say the the cold start valve is required even when ambient temperatures are above zero?

Randy V

As far as CIS is concerned, 'cold' is anything below something like 80 degrees F.

Sean79 5spd

Oh.... Then I may be getting closer to the problem. Guess I have my weekend work cut out for me.

Thanks all.

Sean

928FIXER

Have pressure checks been done?Rest pressure on cold start is not that important.Fuel pump pressure and volume are very important.